You said it's a running why screw with it?
Thanks, Gary, much appreciated.The damper on there looks like it's for a forged crank. They are about 1" wide. A 73 block could have been re built with a forged crank. I did my 77 that way. And I think the truck motors had forged cranks. Most of the R/V cranks were cast iron, I believe. They weren't built for high RPM, just low end torque. And yes, I would start a new thread for this new motor, so as not to confuse this one with the old mystery motor. Good luck! I'm anxiously waiting for the latest developments!
I don't plan on "screwing" with it - as long as what's there is ok.You said it's a running why screw with it?
Yessir. There's some minor cosmetic stuff I'll do to it before it goes in.Get rid of the paint on the trans mounting surface it will just cause grounding problems.
Keep in mind, If it is an externaly balance cast crank, you will need to use an external balanced flywheel. I got a new one that can be used for either ext. or int. balance from 440 Source..........................MOThe damper on there looks like it's for a forged crank. They are about 1" wide. A 73 block could have been re built with a forged crank. I did my 77 that way. And I think the truck motors had forged cranks. Most of the R/V cranks were cast iron, I believe. They weren't built for high RPM, just low end torque. And yes, I would start a new thread for this new motor, so as not to confuse this one with the old mystery motor. Good luck! I'm anxiously waiting for the latest developments!
Then, you have to cut off the end of the input shaft..................MOWho cares? Run the roller bearing in the torque converter pilot, easy.
Doug
Whether or not you meant to insult, you have a valid point - one I agree with.It was meant as a put down. Why change anything, that's all.
That picture belongs pinned to the top of the "Cool Pictures" thread.
Yessir, that's why I'm asking.Keep in mind, If it is an externaly balance cast crank, you will need to use an external balanced flywheel. I got a new one that can be used for either ext. or int. balance from 440 Source..........................MO
Thanks, Gary, much appreciated.
Yeah, that's why I was asking - I see the forged balancer on there and am inclined to leave it if that's indeed a forged crank.
I'm also tickled to death if it is.
You're probably right, I should start a new thread.
Well, sure I did. Still am asking.Have you asked the guy you bought it from? From what I know it's pretty hard to tell the difference by either crank end alone without pulling the pan. Hopefully the balancer is a valid sign.
Thanks, my friend. Yep, I was perusing that site last night, then had a thought:View attachment 395177
First picture is '62-'71 part #2658457
View attachment 395178
Second picture is '72-'75 part #3614371
View attachment 395179
You have one of the two, probably the second one, but in any case it's the forged crank, (internally balanced) They were both used on the forged crank.
http://www.440source.com/dampers.htm
Yes you can. But in your case it is highly unlikely. The seller had it in the car and it was running. He didn't state that he was having a vibration he couldn't find, did he?Is it possible to install a balancer for a forged crank onto a cast one?
You know, now that I think about it, I did have issues with the pulley on the engine now in the car - one bolt wouldn't line up.Yes you can. But in your case it is highly unlikely. The seller had it in the car and it was running. He didn't state that he was having a vibration he couldn't find, did he?
(I edited my last post about the pully differences)
If your pully hole does not line up on one hole, you can "egg' that hole out a bit so it does allow putting that bolt in. I had to do that..............MOYou know, now that I think about it, I did have issues with the pulley on the engine now in the car - one bolt wouldn't line up.
Guess I'm about to find out, since I have to re-use it.