What did I find under my valve cover?

[miller]

Valve guide seals? Appear to be the stock ones...rubber umbrella type, that just fit over the top of the guides. Sounds simple...until you try to get to them. Garage? Good luck on that...since those seals ain't computerized! Sorry, couldn't help myself.
Even putting new stock seals will work fine, but takes a little work, and knowing what your doing. Need to look at the old ones...for the ones broken, and those pieces somewhere in the motor.
Seals are the same, across the board.

 

[Bill Monk]

Are the seals different for the exhaust & intake side?

Yes but Napa sells full sets of seals for both intake and exhaust. If you want to upgrade, you can use the premium viton type seals if you don't have double springs but you have to machine the guides to use them. Umbrella seals should be fine for a street engine.

 

[lewtot184]

Yes but Napa sells full sets of seals for both intake and exhaust. If you want to upgrade, you can use the premium viton type seals if you don't have double springs but you have to machine the guides to use them. Umbrella seals should be fine for a street engine.

IIRC '452's have different intake and exhaust but the other castings have the same for intake and exhaust.

 

[olddog67]

Ok sounds good, I will just get the stock umbrella seals.
Ya I know what your saying about finding a garage to do it, made some calls yesterday, one guy laughed when I told him what I needed done. I have the tools to do it from my uncle who is a retired Mopar mechanic but Ive never done it so not sure I want to tackle it myself.
I am gonna pull the oil pan befor I get them done as well to be sure there is nothing in there.

Would there not be a screen over the oil pick up that would prevent pieces from being sucked back up? And is there any way to snake something threw the oil passages to make sure they are free of debris, like a wire or something?

 

[olddog67]

IIRC '452's have different intake and exhaust but the other castings have the same for intake and exhaust.

The '452', is that the last 3 digits on the casting number under the valve cover?

 

[miller]

Right. There's probably a good chance any broken seal parts would be in the pan. Yup, there's a screen on the oil pickup tube...still don't want junk in there. Doesn't take much to plug up an oil port.
Your motor a 67? Might be 906 heads. Any rate, to 'get' to those seals, you pull the valve spring caps, maybe even the springs, on each valve. Problem...not letting the valve itself drop. Seal also fits over the valve itself, besides top of the guide. There are valve spring compressors made, that can be used while the heads are still in place. But, a way to keep the valve up, needs to be worked out. Different ways...what works for you.

 

[olddog67]

Right. There's probably a good chance any broken seal parts would be in the pan. Yup, there's a screen on the oil pickup tube...still don't want junk in there. Doesn't take much to plug up an oil port.
Your motor a 67? Might be 906 heads. Any rate, to 'get' to those seals, you pull the valve spring caps, maybe even the springs, on each valve. Problem...not letting the valve itself drop. Seal also fits over the valve itself, besides top of the guide. There are valve spring compressors made, that can be used while the heads are still in place. But, a way to keep the valve up, needs to be worked out. Different ways...what works for you.

Much appreciated all the info. My uncle has the spring compressor and also the tool that screws into the head to put compressed air in to hold the valve up.

By the sounds of the answers Im getting from the 4 garages I called I may be doing them myself...only 1 shop said he would tackle it, 6-8 hours at 90$ per hour...

 

[lewtot184]

The '452', is that the last 3 digits on the casting number under the valve cover?

yes

 

[Scooby67]

It sounds as if you have the tools to accomplish the job yourself, so go for it. $700 clams to replace $25 in parts is crazy!!

 

[lewtot184]

be sure to get the piston at TDC and pressurize the cylinder so you don't drop a valve while doing the change out. if you haven't done this before be patient. it'll take about 6hrs for a first timer. the quickest i've ever done it is around 4hrs.

 

[miller]

By the sounds of the answers Im getting from the 4 garages I called I may be doing them myself...only 1 shop said he would tackle it, 6-8 hours at 90$ per hour...

Aw, hell, I'll do it for $85 per hour (beer breaks included, plus the plane ride)!!! Hehe.

 

[Shorthorse]

Here's an easy test to try before having to remove the oil pan to look for additional debris. Drain your oil pan. Take some small diameter clear hose and run it into the small bladed attachment of a shop vac. Seal the attachment end with gray tape. Now you have the flexibility to work the bottom of the pan through the drain hole. If a piece is to big for the hose it will still stick to the end of the hose. What you pick up will give you some idea as to whether you need to drop the pan and do a thorough cleaning.

 

[olddog67]

Here's an easy test to try before having to remove the oil pan to look for additional debris. Drain your oil pan. Take some small diameter clear hose and run it into the small bladed attachment of a shop vac. Seal the attachment end with gray tape. Now you have the flexibility to work the bottom of the pan through the drain hole. If a piece is to big for the hose it will still stick to the end of the hose. What you pick up will give you some idea as to whether you need to drop the pan and do a thorough cleaning.
View attachment 412475

Great idea!
When I start to replace the seals depending on how much is missing from the old ones that should give me an idea as well wouldn't it.

 

[Shorthorse]

Great idea!
When I start to replace the seals depending on how much is missing from the old ones that should give me an idea as well wouldn't it.

Laziness is the true Mother of invention. Years ago I replaced the pan gasket on my truck and cleaned the old gasket pieces from the pan using this method. I just didn't want to pull the motor. I've since done this to check for debris like the situation here.

 

[Daves69]

Lol, Those hard black umbrella seal chips and hardened cork gasket parts are what come out of a stock oil pickup when you shake it to make it stop rattling.
Probably won't come out with a vacuum.

 

[olddog67]

I dont suppose anyone would have or could find a link from Napa for the proper seals. Would have been better off talking to my dog then the guy at Napa, said they only come in a box of 100 and I need to machine the valves first.

edit- Napa called me back and gave me a part number SS12419. Are these the ones I need for intake & exhaust? Sorry for all the questions

 

[miller]

Good 'ol Nappy...oops, I mean Napa. At least someone there is trying. Can't help on a part number, but I'll try to look.
Did you ever come up with a head number?

 

[miller]

From what I looked at, that number is not the umbrella seals. Can't say if machine work is needed, to use them.
Here's a pic of the stock umbrella seals, so you know what your looking at...

 

[olddog67]

I took the valve covers off but cant get a real good look at the number as they are under the rocker arm. It dosent look like either 452 or 906 to be honest.
Can I pull the rocker rail off in one piece? As long as I keep the shims in the same place when putting it all back together I assume that is how you would set the lifters?

 

[olddog67]

Im pretty sure the head number is 2406516-10