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What did I find under my valve cover?

Can I pull the rocker rail off in one piece? As long as I keep the shims in the same place when putting it all back together I assume that is how you would set the lifters?
516 heads, stock small valve.
Shims under the rocker shafts...that's not stock, but used if the push rods are too long, sometimes. Assuming hydraulic lifters. Lifters are set by push rod length, if all stock, shims aren't needed.
Yes, you can pull the rockers, shaft, but keep things together, and don't swap sides. Leave the push rods in place, since those parts have a wear pattern in play. Yes on the shims, in location. Though, most of the compressors I've seen, for head 'on' work, the bare shaft is used. Simple, side to side, slip rocker arms, and spacers off the shaft, all together, so they can be put back on the same. Also should note...the shaft goes on only one way, right...oil holes. If you have a book, it will help.
 
Im pretty sure the head number is 2406516-10
yes, you can take the rocker shafts out as a unit. The 516 head is a 1964 casting and doesn't make the power in stock form as the 906 or the 452 castings. Here's a thought, order up some assembled heads from aerohead. They'll cost you $500-$700 bucks depending but you get better heads, new valves, springs and seals. (Make sure you order the hardened seats.)
Aero is a division of Indy Cylinder Heads that sell re-built stock heads and of course you can check off a bunch of options if you want. Here's the site if you choose to go that route.

http://www.aeroheadracing.com/chrysler.html
 
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Ok so I pulled the rocker shafts off and they are the 516 heads. I did some googling on them and I realize they are not the best head but at this time in life I dont want to start changing heads, I just want to drive my car lol.
Can you guys give me a link to the proper umbrella seals I need as Napa is telling me the only ones they can get are part #SS12419. They do not look like the ones in the picture miller posted when I google the number.
I very much appreciate all your help with this guys.
 
516 heads, stock small valve.
Shims under the rocker shafts...that's not stock, but used if the push rods are too long, sometimes. Assuming hydraulic lifters. Lifters are set by push rod length, if all stock, shims aren't needed.
Yes, you can pull the rockers, shaft, but keep things together, and don't swap sides. Leave the push rods in place, since those parts have a wear pattern in play. Yes on the shims, in location. Though, most of the compressors I've seen, for head 'on' work, the bare shaft is used. Simple, side to side, slip rocker arms, and spacers off the shaft, all together, so they can be put back on the same. Also should note...the shaft goes on only one way, right...oil holes. If you have a book, it will help.

I was doing some googling on removing the rocker shafts and assumed there would be shims, there was not so I assume the motor is stock.
 
I called an engine shop that has been around for decades, its about 40 minutes from me. He said he is pretty sure he has some so Im just gonna get some from him and tackle this myself.

Thanks for all your help on this guys, I really appreciate it!!
 
Are these what I am looking for?
Yep, that's what they look like. If I remember right, all the same, intake or exhaust. If your going to use the air bit, to keep the valves up...be sure the piston is right at TDC. If it isn't, can easily 'kick down' for you.

Putting new/rebuilt heads on, would be a waste of time, if your rings, and bearings are wore out!
 
I was speaking to my uncle who I am getting the tools to do this from, hes a retired mopar mechanic, and he said it is easier to use the keeper removal tool that you hit with a hammer vs. the spring compressor. Any thoughts on those? They seem kinda scary to me lol. I have a 440 on a stand in the shop I can try both tools out on though.

Thanks miller!
 
Oh, yeah, the hammer bit. Heh. Prefer a good dead blow, or solid rubber hammer.
What he's talking about, is the keepers will get 'set' into the spring retainer. Don't want to just slip out. Gotta give 'em a little whack, some more than others. Keep a small magnet, and pick handy, too...helps to grab them.
Just trying to use a spring compressor, keepers might not 'give it up', staying in place. Things like that, is what makes that job a little chore. Can be done, with patience!

My #1 rule is make it easy on yourself. No telling how much time that MOTOR has on it, and has been awhile since it's been worked. Just find the best tool that works for you.
(Somebody will be cussing me, on the motor/engine thing, hehe.)
 
The engine shop called me and he can't get the seals he recommends I use. Great...
He did say something that jogged my memory, I have an old Mccord gasket kit for a 440 and there are seals in it.
Would these work on my 383?

**after having a second look I actually have 16 of the tall seals and 8 of the small seals.

sealx.JPG
 
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Old dog haven't followed the thread but whatever way you go, when the valve covers come off give each valve a little tap at the top to kinda break the lock between spring retainer& keepers, it won't be enuf to pop loose the keepers from valve stem it just breaks the sticking between retainer& locker halves.
 
Thanks oldbee.

I did end up installing the ones I had. Went pretty good. It took me and my father in law almost 6 hours. I used the spring compressor and did have to hit it to loosen the keepers up.

Thanks for all the help guys!
 
Glad it went OK. There's hope for you young'ns yet!
 
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