What did you do to your Mopar today?
- Thread starter MustangAndy
- Start date
Riverdawg
Well-Known Member
Supposed to be a good filter. Lost of small crap in the bowls. Can I use brake cleaner to clean the carb? Nevermind, I found some old carb cleaner. May have to also use a little brake cleaner. First time taking a carb apart. Wish me luck.
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Went for a drive in the Power Wagon Then cleaned and readied all parts to assemble my 4-speed tomorrow.
When I first got my Road Runner running after it sitting for 17 years, I put TWO filters on it, one before the fuel pump and one after. I STILL got a very fine beige silt in my carb. After needing to get towed back once from it, I had enough, I replaced my fuel tank and had no more issues.
I would think you at least need a very good clean out of your tank, or maybe replace it.
Hawk
Demonic
Well-Known Member
I did a nitrogen pressure test on an A/C system in a Lil' Red Express for a friend. Added ester oil to the compressor, fixed some minor leaks and charged it up. He's taking a long road trip in a few weeks..
https://www.hemmings.com/events/detail?listing_id=57589
https://www.hemmings.com/events/detail?listing_id=57589
1 MEAN66
Well-Known Member
Snap on makes a 5/8' Spark Plug socket ( do not know about 3/4 , 13/16, or 14mm) that has a magnet inside in stead of the rubber. Be careful though so many bought it and broke the magnet , that they do not warranty the magnet. So I crack the plug loose with any socket, the use same extension set up and the snap on to get it out and put it in. Part no. S9706KMAG You can also get extensions that have a square "ball" instead of the round style on the end of the extension. but to get the socket ( or what ever ) off the extension you have to manually push in the square edged "ball" with a pocket screw driver. BUT IT CAN NOT FALL OFF.
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1 MEAN66
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I CAN"T hear it!
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Then unmute your feed!
Riverdawg
Well-Known Member
Thanks Hawk.
Basically the same issue. After cleaning the fuel filter and carb out yesterday, I took it for a short ride. (dumb move). It was good until I was a few blocks from home and it started bogging down again. I stopped at my neighbors (chevy guy) to see what he thought and it died. I noticed the fuel filter was almost empty but after a bit it filled back up. Couldn't get it to fire up again. grabbed some starting fluid and it started and died. I'm hoping just the fuel line is clogged but I'll probably take off the fuel fuel pump and clean it out too. Getting a new tank, sending unit and some fuel line ordered. Probably gonna put in 1/2 inch. oh well, another day more money spend on the hobby.
Put a mini starter in my Satellite today seems like it fit ok. Tomorrow going to make sure no contact problem. Touched pos cable to pos terminal quick, no sparks. Guess terminal on starter not touching block. May wrap starter to keep some heat from exhaust manifold off it.
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1 MEAN66
Well-Known Member
Took me a month But the pink lady is back together. Most of that time was waiting for parts So took time pulling it apart. Saved some work for next winter ( relocate 6al box - it's bolted to inside of firewall, replace interior wire harness and add separate fuse box and harness for all none factory "stuff" and install the heater assembly that was taken out ( nothing under dash at all).
So what I did do was pulled the TCI full comp. 727 Trans. (Cracked a flex plate) and the 4500 stall convertor. Put in An ATI HD 727 (street/strip and 3500 stall which will handle the HP/Torque of my Muscle motors Killer Krate). But this all takes time cause I do it solo on my back (car about 24" off ground so can work over fenders and under car at same time). I Hang the headers with mechanics wire so they can be moved around for clearance other wise have to lift engine. Pull the plugs so I don't break them so I CAN hang the headers. Due to being retired from Auto field I no longer have inspection license so decided to put e-brake back on, sooner or later will run out of people I know to pass it. Found pedal assembly in AZ. got brake shoe strut bar and lever from a member here. I threw those out cause I knew I would never need them. Two new cables easy to find but the L/R came from different B-Body 3"s to short. Do to S/S springs- longer perches and those being weld to inside frame rail (moving everything inboard 3"s - tire clearance, had to make new cable hanging brackets. Perches are where brackets used to be. Made a large S bracket and welded it to outside surface of spring perch. Made my own cable Font to rear cable connector to work. All made so can still R/R spring if needed. While in there new shoes, cylinders, and hardware. Had a caliper leak (have 75 A-Body Disc brake spindle, calipers, and it's 10.87 disc rotor - they fit in O.E. B-Body control arms and do not change suspension angles, attach to B-Body ball Joints). So got two new calipers and pads. I use a 15/16th bore manual (two hole) master cylinder and Wilwood adjustable proportion valve. A lot of climbing under and out from under car, wrong size tool, need different tool. torch to heat bolt, new bolt, etc. etc., Gravity works great for trans. removal but no so much to lift and put in. Have a Harbor freight trans. jack put tranny won't come out from under car on it. So getting back on the jack while both are under vehicle takes some doing. 67 years old so harder than it used to be. To get E-BRK pedal assembly in had to pull seat, as it has a 10 point cage. So it now would really pass inspection ( still know people in industry) put have to apply it with hand, foot and leg won't touch it - cage is in the way. But the hood only weighs 19Lbs. Total and has no hinges so working under the hood is easy.
Humans are the only animal on the planet the works to create more work for ourselves!
Will put the wiper motor/trans. assembly in when I do heater/defroster assembly. OR buy a plug in to power adapter heater for Rebecca's feet and if window fogs she can point it at the window while we drive. Would take pictures, but flip phone won't send them anywhere, and no film for the 35mm.
So what I did do was pulled the TCI full comp. 727 Trans. (Cracked a flex plate) and the 4500 stall convertor. Put in An ATI HD 727 (street/strip and 3500 stall which will handle the HP/Torque of my Muscle motors Killer Krate). But this all takes time cause I do it solo on my back (car about 24" off ground so can work over fenders and under car at same time). I Hang the headers with mechanics wire so they can be moved around for clearance other wise have to lift engine. Pull the plugs so I don't break them so I CAN hang the headers. Due to being retired from Auto field I no longer have inspection license so decided to put e-brake back on, sooner or later will run out of people I know to pass it. Found pedal assembly in AZ. got brake shoe strut bar and lever from a member here. I threw those out cause I knew I would never need them. Two new cables easy to find but the L/R came from different B-Body 3"s to short. Do to S/S springs- longer perches and those being weld to inside frame rail (moving everything inboard 3"s - tire clearance, had to make new cable hanging brackets. Perches are where brackets used to be. Made a large S bracket and welded it to outside surface of spring perch. Made my own cable Font to rear cable connector to work. All made so can still R/R spring if needed. While in there new shoes, cylinders, and hardware. Had a caliper leak (have 75 A-Body Disc brake spindle, calipers, and it's 10.87 disc rotor - they fit in O.E. B-Body control arms and do not change suspension angles, attach to B-Body ball Joints). So got two new calipers and pads. I use a 15/16th bore manual (two hole) master cylinder and Wilwood adjustable proportion valve. A lot of climbing under and out from under car, wrong size tool, need different tool. torch to heat bolt, new bolt, etc. etc., Gravity works great for trans. removal but no so much to lift and put in. Have a Harbor freight trans. jack put tranny won't come out from under car on it. So getting back on the jack while both are under vehicle takes some doing. 67 years old so harder than it used to be. To get E-BRK pedal assembly in had to pull seat, as it has a 10 point cage. So it now would really pass inspection ( still know people in industry) put have to apply it with hand, foot and leg won't touch it - cage is in the way. But the hood only weighs 19Lbs. Total and has no hinges so working under the hood is easy.
Humans are the only animal on the planet the works to create more work for ourselves!
Will put the wiper motor/trans. assembly in when I do heater/defroster assembly. OR buy a plug in to power adapter heater for Rebecca's feet and if window fogs she can point it at the window while we drive. Would take pictures, but flip phone won't send them anywhere, and no film for the 35mm.
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Changed the spark plugs, washed it, fueled it & drove it.
A lot.
And with much matting of the go pedal.
I really, really, REALLY enjoy this car!
A lot.
And with much matting of the go pedal.
I really, really, REALLY enjoy this car!
Finally able to replace the original tank and lines. Went from 5/16 to 3/8. Still not sure why the smaller line was used when the sender was 3/8. Reused the original sender and still works perfectly. That undercoating they used back then is a bit crunchy when it gets in your mouth. Took it out for a good cruise. No runs, drips, or errors.
1 MEAN66
Well-Known Member
Looks like I'm not the only one on my back.
Yea and the wife helped me all day with that project. All I heard since then was "you owe me big time".
Riverdawg
Well-Known Member
I'll be down there soon too. I'll be replacing my tank and line as soon as I figure what way I want to go with it.
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Larrry B.
Well-Known Member
Finally getting the new wheels and tires mounted.
YY1
Well-Known Member
Satellite is back from the paint shop after only 2 months (might be a record).
Putting interior back in and exterior trim back on.
It has to go back for some touch up work and a couple runs but I have to go buy more paint and I'd like to get it color matched.
That means I get to drive it there.
Putting interior back in and exterior trim back on.
It has to go back for some touch up work and a couple runs but I have to go buy more paint and I'd like to get it color matched.
That means I get to drive it there.
Finished mini starter install. Gave it a quick test sounds nice. Used a mirror to see how close main power stud was from the block, full 1/4". Now those missing power cable brackets.
Larrry B.
Well-Known Member
Finally got the Wilson ported intake on with the 1" tapered spacer.
Definite improvement, with the EMS AC there's about 1" (or less) of space under the hood scoop so it all worked out.
Got the new wheels and tires mounted with an alignment, with new 2" drop spindles.
I'll try another early morning canyon run this weekend to see how it all works out, hopefully I don't mess up the RR or kill myself.
Definite improvement, with the EMS AC there's about 1" (or less) of space under the hood scoop so it all worked out.
Got the new wheels and tires mounted with an alignment, with new 2" drop spindles.
I'll try another early morning canyon run this weekend to see how it all works out, hopefully I don't mess up the RR or kill myself.
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