What front suspension everyone running

[dvw]

Wow thats a clean k member dont look like its weakened it at all

Nearly 500 wheel stands and counting. Boxed the bottom also.
Doug

 

[Mike Gaines]

I love it.

 

[Moparstyle]

That’s awesome

 

[Moparstyle]

Nearly 500 wheel stands and counting. Boxed the bottom also.
Doug
View attachment 553931
View attachment 553929

Obviously your running a front motor plate are you running a rear plate also Doug

 

[dvw]

Obviously your running a front motor plate are you running a rear plate also Doug

Front plate only. Limiters at the trans controlling fore/aft movement.
Doug

 

[Moparstyle]

Front plate only. Limiters at the trans controlling fore/aft movement.
Doug
View attachment 554071

Going to pull the k member out of my car this weekend and cut it down thanks for the info Doug

 

[383man]

Mine is all stock also. I even use the stock 383 torsion bars. The only non stock part up front is the 3 way shocks. Ron

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Going to pull the k member out of my car this weekend and cut it down thanks for the info Doug

Going to pull the k member out of my car this weekend and cut it down thanks for the info Doug

The "K" does not need to be removed ,but can make for a more pretty modification.I followed DVWs idea of cutting the "K" and did it in the car.There was not that much left of the motor mount/steering box mount so these brackets came into use.

 

[1stBxMopar]

I was going to use the QA1 front K member for my A-body big block drag car, but when I called them to see if it was available without motor mounts, because I'm using an engine plate. I was told No, and when I asked if I could simply cut the mounts off, they told me the structure would be compromised. So I told them no thanks. After a little searching I found a guy on for A-bodies only-(member name-junior636) who fabricates k-members for A-bodies in different configurations, depending on your needs.
I don't know if he has a jig to make it for a B-body, but you can check with him, you never know. He does exceptional work and is a good guy to deal with.
This is the one he just did for my 71 Dart.
I will be installing this k-member with all QA1 components and wilwood brakes.

 

[Moparstyle]

The "K" does not need to be removed ,but can make for a more pretty modification.I followed DVWs idea of cutting the "K" and did it in the car.There was not that much left of the motor mount/steering box mount so these brackets came into use.

View attachment 554960 View attachment 554961 View attachment 554962 View attachment 554963 View attachment 554964 View attachment 554965 View attachment 554966

That’s awesome

 

[Moparstyle]

I was going to use the QA1 front K member for my A-body big block drag car, but when I called them to see if it was available without motor mounts, because I'm using an engine plate. I was told No, and when I asked if I could simply cut the mounts off, they told me the structure would be compromised. So I told them no thanks. After a little searching I found a guy on for A-bodies only-(member name-junior636) who fabricates k-members for A-bodies in different configurations, depending on your needs.
I don't know if he has a jig to make it for a B-body, but you can check with him, you never know. He does exceptional work and is a good guy to deal with.
This is the one he just did for my 71 Dart.
I will be installing this k-member with all QA1 components and wilwood brakes.
View attachment 554984 View attachment 554985

That’s nice work what it set you back ?

 

[1stBxMopar]

Mine was $550. with no motor mounts...

 

[Budnicks]

My last 2 RR's had QA1 stuff
{or the org. Capps Automotive, QA1 bought them out}
this one it's QA1 k-member
& QA1 LCA's with the sway bar mounts added
SPC dbl adjustable UCA's with poly bushings & ball-joints
QA1 dynamic adj. strut-rods
Uni-steer rack & pinion {I wouldn't recommend}
Summit racing {Hellwig} Sway bars front 1-3/8" & 1" rear
{I want it to handle when I'm not going in a straight line will disconnect the links when at the drags}
SSBC force 10 disc's
New Moog lower ball-joints
probably stay with the org. 383 T-Bars,
my last car I had 1" MP's they were too stiff for my liking,
but great for handling,
with the bigger frt sway bar I don't think I need the 1" TB

$540

$450

$200

$240 each=$480

$1000

$600 front + $450 rears = $1050

stock photo

The formula has worked very well fo the past 2 cars,
the 3rd will be just as good IMO & I have the parts already...

 

[biomedtechguy]

My last 2 RR's had QA1 stuff
{or the org. Capps Automotive, QA1 bought them out}
this one it's QA1 k-member
& QA1 LCA's with the sway bar mounts added
SPC dbl adjustable UCA's with poly bushings & ball-joints
QA1 dynamic adj. strut-rods
Uni-steer rack & pinion {I wouldn't recommend}
Summit racing {Hellwig} Sway bars front 1-3/8" & 1" rear
{I want it to handle when I'm not going in a straight line will disconnect the links when at the drags}
SSBC force 10 disc's
New Moog lower ball-joints
probably stay with the org. 383 T-Bars,
my last car I had 1" MP's they were too stiff for my liking,
but great for handling,
with the bigger frt sway bar I don't think I need the 1" TB

$540
View attachment 555118

$450
View attachment 555116

$200
View attachment 555117

$240 each=$480
View attachment 555119

$1000
View attachment 555120

$600 front + $450 rears = $1050
View attachment 555121 stock photo

The formula has worked very well fo the past 2 cars,
the 3rd will be just as good IMO & I have the parts already...

I have been watching this thread closely. I have asked you about front suspension advice, and as always you gave generous help. Thanks for these details.
One question Budnicks, is there another rack and pinion setup that you would use? I would REALLY like a manual rack and pinion, but I would consider power if I "had" too.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Seems like whenever a rack is used,,,,the turning radius goes to ****?????

 

[Budnicks]

I have been watching this thread closely. I have asked you about front suspension advice, and as always you gave generous help. Thanks for these details.
One question Budnicks, is there another rack and pinion setup that you would use? I would REALLY like a manual rack and pinion, but I would consider power if I "had" too.

On the Uni-Steer system I only saw it offered in "power steering"
I'm not even sure it comes in a manual rack & pinion, in that style of rack...

IMO I honestly think the Borgeson style box
or a Flaming River quick steer box
or PST Fast Ratio {12:1 vs 16:1} style pitman & idler arms etc.
https://p-s-t.com/n-11822-mopar-fast-ratio-steering-linkage-kit.html
{Borgeson style box is smaller & quicker than OE box, there's a few threads on it}
is a better deal for these cars, for use of the stock geometry/architecture
"unless you can do some fab & welding work on your own"...

I'll break it down a bit, from my perspective/experiances
The Uni-Steer power rack & pinion {It's a mod. frt-wd Omni Rack IIRC}
system I bought
is a "rear steer" style system
in the fact it uses the stock lower ball joints, in stock position/locations
& steers from behind the rear of the org. front spindles centerline
it's a bolt in deal, so it was easy, -BUT-
my biggest gripe is, it limits the oil pans & headers you can use too,
far more than anything else, the rest I can live with, no big deal...

{member CDR IIRC had a thread on it here too}

BUT;
you can get back most the turning radius lost, as mentioned above
that mod, also makes it a bit quicker steering too, not that it needs it
changing/drilling/taper or reaming a different point on the lower ball-joint arms,
closer/nearer to the fulcrum point, the axis/centerline of the spindle
where the tie-rod ends attach
that also helps some with slight loss of turning radius,
or bump-steer with the proper spacing etc.

BUT;
it the Uni-Steer Bolt on R&P
{I got mine from Year One almost 10 years ago, it's more $$$ now}
it's a literal bolt in, it goes under the oil pan just like the org. drag link
& uses all the org./stock steering locations,
with a slight mod & cutting to the steering column shaft end.
it also turn the opposite direction/reverse
of like a "front steer" style system
a system that turns the lower ball joints from in-front of the
centerline of the axis/spindle,
like those R&P's used in a Pinto/Mustang II style racks do

again a front steer style rack & pinion {or box} turns the opposite direction,
of the rear steer, rack or box...

it would take some figuring out, a little geometry, pre planning
you could flip flop the org. lower front ball-joints, left to right & visa versa
use a Pinto/Mustang II style manual rack, fab up some mounts
weld them on tabs to the front of the K-member,
remember to align & space the tie-rod ends
"properly & at the correct height" straightness, so it doesn't have bump-steer

You still would need to lengthen the steering column, shaft
you could use a Uni-Steer Dbl D shaft & use a couple of universals inline,
to keep it from binding, make room etc.

I'm not sure if QA1 would do it for you, you may call & ask them

when it was org. owned buy Capps Automotive
before QA1 bought them out
they did custom stuff for me a few times,
it was a totally different business then thou...

I wanted to keep mine {my current 68 RR}, where I could unbolt it
& put it back to stock {except mods to the steering column shaft}
if I was to ever want to bring it back to stock or ever sell it...
My car isn't an all out racecar, it was never meant to be either
it's something in-between a drag car in search of a corner
&/or a street/autocross car, in search of a straightaway...

are you thoroughly confused yet

there's a bunch of different ways to do it,
even a electronic assist box/column mounted under the dash,
if you have the skills, smarts all necessary to pull that off...

More than one way to skin a cat,
it really depends on your fab smarts & skill levels

good luck

 

[biomedtechguy]

Thanks. Almost too much to read, much less DO...
I have in my mind that R&P is a "better" way to steer from an engineering/design perspective. What I am hoping for is a better "feel" to my front suspension, and better function. AFAIK, I may find that just having all new parts may do the job.

 

[Budnicks]

Thanks. Almost too much to read, much less DO...
I have in my mind that R&P is a "better" way to steer from an engineering/design perspective. What I am hoping for is a better "feel" to my front suspension, and better function. AFAIK, I may find that just having all new parts may do the job.

I do really like the feel & feedback of a rack & pinion...
I have no complaints in that dept.

 

[biomedtechguy]

My current front suspension has some new parts: upper and lower ball joints, used LCA passenger side, maybe that's it..I have had a couple of shops do what they can with all front suspension adjustments, but no one can get it "right" due to lack of adjustability with the "cam" that changes caster or camber? IDK. Anyway, my go to guy is an old school front end guy and he does a better job than anyone, but he explained to me why he can't get it closer to 100%.
I figure new front suspension parts will allow for better results, and improve tuneability for road and drag strip. From inquiries I've made, it seems like the ONLY difference between the "drag" vs "handling" STAGE kits from QA1 is the anti-sway bar(s) which can be disconnected for proper lift on track days, so the "handling" kit seems like a good choice to me, or I may just piece it together as I've been told it will work with my stock anti-sway bar. My current setup isn't THAT bad-the ice cream delivery truck I drove for a few months for store delivery-now THAT was bad! The "steering" wheel wasn't...It was more of a "suggestion box" lol.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I stuck with the stock stuff and made it work.After adding a "J" bar and midplate the car rode like a new brick.No more "sawing" on the steering wheel.Feels GREAT at 150 MPH.