Ranger16
Well-Known Member
Find a piece of suitable plastic and make your own.
What is my Ammeter telling me
- Thread starter LowBikeMike
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You can solder the stud heads to the bus, carefully clean any oxidation from the surfaces. With that ammeter I would remove the plastic faceplate first to ensure any heat from the soldering process doesn’t damage it. Insulating materials? I would avoid plastic at the location, still heat potential there, the factory used fiberboard there for a reason. If using another material, I’d look at ceramic insulators, again if going generic, insulate the stud passing through the cluster frame.
The butt connector damage? Those are not known for quality connections at best. Can be a point of highest resistance if not crimped properly. If I use those, I’ll remove the insulator, solder the crimp, use heat shrink.
The butt connector damage? Those are not known for quality connections at best. Can be a point of highest resistance if not crimped properly. If I use those, I’ll remove the insulator, solder the crimp, use heat shrink.
as mentioned avoid any plastic piece there as insulator. Still on a nice balanced system, the ammeter studs can get some heat there at certain moments, so plastic insulators will melt.
really ? $30 on shipping for the replacement insulators ? I don't think that could be a shipping rate for a piece can be shipped on an envelope!!! something is wrong on that shipping quote
you can also use also old PCB board and cut ist as needed. Of course remove the copper layer or use the opossite faces for the gauge face and the nuts face. trim nicelly the holes for the studs
really ? $30 on shipping for the replacement insulators ? I don't think that could be a shipping rate for a piece can be shipped on an envelope!!! something is wrong on that shipping quote
you can also use also old PCB board and cut ist as needed. Of course remove the copper layer or use the opossite faces for the gauge face and the nuts face. trim nicelly the holes for the studs
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LowBikeMike
Well-Known Member
Yes, $29.99. That's why I was looking elsewhere. Not having too much luck.
Thanks for the responses and advice.
Thanks for the responses and advice.
no, that can't be posible... something is wrong there. Why don't you call them?
they were selling these in the past on eBay, and their BIN option for the two pieces set was something ike $2 or $3, shipping included as far I recall
they were selling these in the past on eBay, and their BIN option for the two pieces set was something ike $2 or $3, shipping included as far I recall
well they are on Ontario, Canada. But a full set of gauge face decals being sold on ebay are still on $20 shipping rate
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124385387894?fits=Year:1973|Model:Charger&hash=item1cf5f26576:g:3YAAAOSwNF1fh0Wb#shpCntId
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124385387894?fits=Year:1973|Model:Charger&hash=item1cf5f26576:g:3YAAAOSwNF1fh0Wb#shpCntId
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LowBikeMike
Well-Known Member
Closing the loop on this one. Replaced the dash harness after I found the burnt wires. Harness has quite a few suspect wires and multiple previous repairs. Purchased a used cluster primarly for the lense, Ammeter in that cluster looked nicer than mine, no signs of being hot, so I replaced my orginal Ammeter with it. Got everything back together, ran 8 gauge parallel wire from Alternator and 10 gauge with 14 gauge fuseible link to starter relay. Started car, after a few moments Ammeter settled to center of range, barely moves when turning on accessories or lights, 14 volts steady. Next is a test drive to confirm all is good before complete the dash reasssembly.
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