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What piston for my 383 build?

My ‘60 foots were in the low 1.70s last time out. The calculators will put my car in the 12.3-4 range but I figure it’s probably closer to the 12.5 range. But seeing as how this is a conversation about budget 383 pistons, I’m only validating the Speed Pro capabilities after 25,000 miles and lots of abuse. I’ll get it to the 1/4 mile later in the year, I hope. Some changes might have the car running alittle faster (I hope).
 
My responses are related to post 87 and 88.

If your point is that a car with wild tire spin/poor driver technique will et better with a slick, you're right. I would have never guessed that it would need to be said.
 
My ‘60 foots were in the low 1.70s last time out. The calculators will put my car in the 12.3-4 range but I figure it’s probably closer to the 12.5 range. But seeing as how this is a conversation about budget 383 pistons, I’m only validating the Speed Pro capabilities after 25,000 miles and lots of abuse. I’ll get it to the 1/4 mile later in the year, I hope. Some changes might have the car running alittle faster (I hope).

Love what you're doing with your car. I bet it's a blast to drive. What's it weigh?
 
Love what you're doing with your car. I bet it's a blast to drive. What's it weigh?
I really do not know, but it’s more than your average bear due in part by the receiver hitch behind the bumper and subframe connectors. I’ll try to get it in a scale soon so I can get some accurate figure to go with my Dyno sheets and 1/4 mile times. I need it to speed up some this October at the #MoparVsBrandXstreetcarShowdown.
 
All these 383 builds got me thinking of pulling my old 383 from the corner and put back together.
One think I want to do this weekend is check a few different heads I have to see how deep the valves set from the head deck?
I was thinking one reason my piston to valve clearance was tighter than normal is that to gain compression, the block was milled so the piston is about zero deck, but this also reduced P-V clearance, then the 906 heads were cut 0.060" if I recall, and that would have again reduced my P-V clearance.
Here are some of the heads i want to check. The original, uncut '71 346? (not sure if that is the right number?) heads, some 915 (or is it 519?) closed chamber small valve heads (not sure if they have been milled, got them in a trade?), The small chamber Brodix B-1 B/S heads, and My old Edelbrock Victor MW heads. Just curious which head has the valve deepest in the chamber (most starting P-V clearance?) If anyone has measurements from Edelbrock RPM, E-Street, Trick flow, and such feel free to share.
 
Word is, you can tell how much an iron big block mopar head has been milled, be measuring the exhaust side head bolt bosses. Stock they are supposedly one inch. So if they measure .950, then they have been milled somewhere near .050.
I don't know if that works on aftermarket aluminum .
 
Could anyone please help me over here?

 
Could anyone please help me over here?

What exactly is your question? If you're asking about deck heights for a 383, finding a piston deep in the hole (like a 440 or 400) is not easy. It would probably be for a '7l low compression engine only.
I am not familiar with the pistons referenced In the quote, but I believe the KB/silvolite have a compression height of around 1.920. Icon forged are 1.912.
Since a blueprinted 383 block is 9.98, a zero deck piston would be 1.935, so the kb would be .015 down, the icons about .023, ASSUMING block deck is at 9.980. Of course, Mopar was not interested in blueprinting a block at the factory, so a deck might be up to .050 tall.... or it might have been decked excessively and be 9.96. The reason for the slightly short deck is for a milled block.
 
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