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What size trailer do I need?

Laws have changed in Texas and iirc, anything that's grossed out at 3500 and above has to have brakes.....
 
With the subject of trailer brakes
When you buy the brake controller spend the money on a proportional unit not a timed or the real cheap one with full brakes as soon as you touch the petal
it will save you money on trailer brakes and it is safer
 
I'd say 24' minimum too.
I have a 28' that I found used in the local news paper for $6,000. It had several options like side escape door, so I can drive the car in and open the car door inside the trailer (with the trailer door open), also had the upper and lower cabinets up front, an A/C and Heater unit, 12-volt and 110-volt lighting, and exterior lights. I think the owners said it was also 6" taller than normal? This is a steel dual axle tag trailer and fairly heavy. I don't think I would want anything longer as a tag, would go goose neck to make it easier to maneuver, and put the tongue weight over the trucks rear axle.
When I bought the trailer it had 15" rim "D" load range tires which I did not like because most of my cars are over 4,000#, plus the extra weight of tools, parts, generator, pit bike, and all the other stuff that gets thrown in the trailer, I think the total weight is at least 9,000 to 10,000 pounds. Those tires would bulge out on the sidewalls pretty good even at 80-psi. Anyhow, those tires got change to 16" rim "E" load range tires.
My Ram has the towing package, so it had a receiver and pre-wired for the trailer connector and brake controller, just needed the brake controller.
Used the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Brake controller which you can order with a wiring adaptor for the Ram so you don't have to mess with wiring the Ram connector to the brake controller universal harness.
I got the load leveling trailer hitch with the trailer, but no sway control. Trailer sway in normally not a problem unless I'm driving 70+ MPH in very high wind conditions.
 
I bought a new 24ft by 8 1/2 inch enclosed trailer with electric brakes and 5200 pound axles and larger tires. here are the details of it:
5 year warranty
Heavy Duty 2"x 6" Boxed Tube main frame
Interior Height 78" - 6Ft 6"
V-Nose With ATP Diamond Plate Cap
Dual Cable Spring Assist Ramp Door With No Show Beaver Tail
16" OC Side Walls (1x1.5" tube) 16" OC Floor Cross Members
12V Interior Light W/ Switch, Roof Vent, Non powered
24" ATP Stone Guard (taller then most)
36" Side Door With RV Lock, 2 keys
15" 225's TIRES
3/4" Top Grade Plywood Floors
3/8" Walls
4-5000lb D-Ring Tie Downs. Welded In
Aluminum Fender Flares
E-Z Lube Hubs, E-Z Lube hinge pins
Tongue Jack 2000# Top wind
2- 5/16 inch Coupler
.024 Aluminum Metal (Exterior) Thicker Galvalume Roof

Delivery will be this week.
 
your car is near 18' I had a 26' Haulmark elite. would suggest 10,000 lbs rated axles Goodyear marauder 8 ply tires ,have a spare ,generator ,small pancake air compressor. and weight distribution hitch and bars ,with sway control . if buying used check roof vents and seam seal conditions corking tends to dry out over time this is a place where water can get in and rot out your ceiling
 
You will also need a cat 4 load distribution hitch or heavier. Do not even think about towing with the factory bumper hitch.
 
I will not be doing much trailering. I bought it more for the storage of the car, as I do not have a garage and storage each month is getting ridiculous. It does give me the ability to trailer, if the need arises
 
Yes want an enclosed and the 1/2 ton is a hemi , 8 speed

In Md. and Pa. your truck registration has to match the same or better than the weight that you are hauling. I'm useing a 2003, 2500 Ram with the 5.7. I have a 24ft. Hallmark, rated at 7000lbs, and with the 3700lb + car inside, I wouldn't want a smaller engine. Useing a 1500 truck, you might want to invest in a set of load levelers for the hitch too.
 
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