Wheel bearing adjustment nut install procedures

[wsutard]

I'm about ready to reinstall my front hub assembly. I took a look at the FSM and it states the following for installing the bearing nut. Should I follow these or is it not relevant anymore? I ask because when I took off the nut it was no where near 90lbs.

(1) Install wheel and drum assemblies and tighten
wheel nuts on Dart models to 55 foot-pounds, on
Charger and Coronet models, to 65 foot-pounds.
(2) Tighten wheel bearing adjusting nut (Fig. 55) to
70 inch-pounds on Dart models and 90 inch-pounds on
Coronet and Charger models, while rotating wheel.
(3) Position nut lock on adjusting nut so one pair
of cotter pin slots align with hole in spindle.
(4) Back off adjusting nut and nut lock to the next
slot and install cotter pin.
(5) Install wheel covers.

Thanks

 

[Photon440]

90 inch-pounds really isn't very much to start with.

 

[eldubb440]

don't confuse inch pounds with foot pounds...... Ive always just run them up barely snug, just enough to eliminate any play

 

[wsutard]

oops. So, will this be a huge issue?

 

[wsutard]

I'm changing to 90 inch lbs now. Did I hurt anything by going 90 lbs? I didn't run it. Just finished then saw this.

 

[eldubb440]

back it off.... should be fine

 

[wsutard]

So glad you guys said that. Wow.

 

[miller]

(1) Install wheel and drum assemblies and tighten
wheel nuts on Dart models to 55 foot-pounds, on
Charger and Coronet models, to 65 foot-pounds.
(2) Tighten wheel bearing adjusting nut (Fig. 55) to
70 inch-pounds on Dart models and 90 inch-pounds on
Coronet and Charger models, while rotating wheel.

#1 is definately a typo...foot should be inch! Yes, #2 is correct.

But, think of it like this...those bearings, both inners and outers, are Timken bearings, that have tapered races/rollers. Even with grease packed, you ONLY want to seat the bearing pieces...no side play...then, slightly back off to get the cotter pin in place. That allows to bearings to spin freely, without any binding. Rotating while tightening the bearings, simply help spread the grease, so you get the right set on 'em.
I'll toss in this...when you pull the bearings for service...clean 'em, and look for any bluing, or getting too hot. If they have...they need to be replaced! If you ever replace a Timken bearing, replace ALL the bearing. NEVER mix parts!

 

[WileERobby]

#1 is definately a typo...foot should be inch! Yes, #2 is correct.

No... it's referring to the wheel LUG nuts to be tightened to 55 or 65. THEN, the BEARING nut using in/lbs.

 

[Ranger16]

Ive always just run them up barely snug, just enough to eliminate any play

"Just enough to eliminate any play" says it all. . Finger tight (while wiggling the wheel to eliminate any play) works as good, if not better, than a torque wrench.

 

[miller]

No... it's referring to the wheel LUG nuts to be tightened to 55 or 65. THEN, the BEARING nut using in/lbs.

Oops! Read that one too quick. Good catch!

 

[WileERobby]

"Just enough to eliminate any play" says it all. . Finger tight (while wiggling the wheel to eliminate any play) works as good, if not better, than a torque wrench.

Actually, from the first time I ever did this many, many moons ago... I've always done it by "feel"

 

[millicon]

Don't feel too bad - I read 90 ft-lbs the first time too. They should have put that in bold or something...