Which 750 holley dp for 383?

[66bluewhale]

I have been researching which carburetor I should purchase for my 383: http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?92205-FRESH-1968-383-Engine-2500-SHIPPED!!!!!!

I found that the holley 750 dp was recommended from my searches , but confused as to which model to purchase 3310,4150 and I think there's a few others.

Transmission currently 727tf, 8 3/4 3.91 in the rear.
My goals for this car is like Dan weishaars 68 rr.
I would appreciate any knowledge or guidance. Please let me know if you need anymore info from me.

 

[Photon440]

Depends. If the heads are worked enough to keep flowing at 6,000 rpm, Holley's own site still recommends a few 650 sizes before moving larger.

 

[mentor70]

i would run a Holley HP ultra 750 or a Quick fuel 750 SS

the Ultra is more money, but its a good carb, everything is adjustable.. Quick Fuel has most of all Holleys tricks, but a little cheaper, and their gaskets are better.

 

[WileE]

3310 is not a double pumper.

 

[Cranky]

The 3310 is a vacuum secondary carb but is probably the best vac secondary carb they ever made IMO. In my experiences with all the other Holley made were sub par. DP carbs work better with stick transmissions but if you know how to tune one in, the 750 will work well with a 383 if you have the gear (3.91's), converter and some high performance addons to the engine like a mild cam and decent heads, intake and headers. I'm not familiar with Dan weishaars 68 rr...

 

[Yatzee]

Why bother with a carb at all. For $250 more you more you can get into TBI and kiss all the jets, power valves, floats and chokes goodbye.

 

[Photon440]

Why bother with a carb at all. For $250 more you more you can get into TBI and kiss all the jets, power valves, floats and chokes goodbye.

Link to site with said $700 TBI for my car please?

 

[Cranky]

Why bother with a carb at all. For $250 more you more you can get into TBI and kiss all the jets, power valves, floats and chokes goodbye.

Where's the fun in that!? :grin:

 

[Xp29h]

I'll try to keep short.. As stated a ton depends on the build of the 383...Holley carbs..

I just pulled the 383 that was in my car.. .Too tight and and Pistons too far away from deck. No power early. But once got going, higher rpm, power came up..

Anyway, started with 650 DP.. Didn't really like it. Changed power valves, jets, squirters, carb cams etc. no better.

Tried the 3310 750. Got a little better.. But not enough..then tried 750 DP mech. Secondaries no choke..same results.. Keep in mind motor not built well..so ???

Went to 850 DP.. Made it the best out of all situations. Hard to tell how the 383 would have reacted if it were built correctly. I expected the 750 to be the ticket, but just didn't do the job. All the research with cfm calculators etc.. Said 750...

Beg, borrow any carb you can to try and see how it works. They're very expensive to buy and try. (There's a surprise, lol). With my situation, I've found I never really knew which cfm and combo of jets ,valves, etc will really work without trying.

Good luck..

 

[747mopar]

I'm sold on dealing with Don at FBO for all my future carbs. Called him up and told him I wanted a Quick Fuel, he took all my info, cam, heads, tranny, gearing, vacuum, altitude, weight, etc and had Quick Fuel build the carb to my specs and shipped it to my door cheaper than I could have bought it at Summit. The carb performed perfectly right out of the box, they even tuned it on a motor at the factory so even the idle screws were spot on. Hard to beat that, love the Quick Fuel.

 

[66bluewhale]

http://www.hotrod.com/cars/featured/ccrp-1112-dan-weisharr-1968-plymouth-roadrunner/
This is my goal.

I bought the engine from moparcrazy.com this is all the info I have from the engine. He didn't send my the machine shop specs for the engine.

"HAS ALL CLEVITE BEARINGS, RODS, MAINS AND CAM. COMP .545 LIFT HYDRAULIC CAM, NEW COMP LIFTERS AND DOUBLE VALVE SPRINGS. MAHLE PLASMA RINGS ON .040 OVER KIETH BLACK HYPEREUTECTIC (FLAT TOP WITH VALVE RELIEFS) PISTONS. MELLING HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP. NEWLY DONE HEADS WITH NEW VALVES ON A TWO ANGLE VALVE JOB, LIGHTLY PORTED. INTERNALLY BALANCED MOPAR STEEL CRANK, RECONDITIONED RODS WITH ARP BOLTS. HAS ONLY RUN IN A RUN STAND FOR JUST OVER AN HOUR FOR BREAK IN. ALL MACHINE WORK, PREP AND DECKING, BORING HONING AND BUILD OF SHORT BLOCK DONE BY HUNTSVILLE PERFORMANCE ENGINE IN HUNTSVILLE ALABAMA. ALL ROD AND MAIN BEARINGS ARE STANDARD. MILIDON 8 QUART REAR SUMP OIL PAN. EDLEBROCK TORKER INTAKE. MOTOR RUNS GREAT MAINTAINS ALMOST 40 POUNDS OF OIL PRESSURE AT IDLE AFTER WARM UP"

Im looking for a carb that will suit my needs at the moment and later down the when I start upgrading. I would like to eventually get some aluminum heads and convert to a manual

 

[Banzaiii67]

I'm sold on dealing with Don at FBO for all my future carbs. Called him up and told him I wanted a Quick Fuel, he took all my info, cam, heads, tranny, gearing, vacuum, altitude, weight, etc and had Quick Fuel build the carb to my specs and shipped it to my door cheaper than I could have bought it at Summit. The carb performed perfectly right out of the box, they even tuned it on a motor at the factory so even the idle screws were spot on. Hard to beat that, love the Quick Fuel.

Fwiw Don at FBO suggested a QuickFuel 680 VS for my 383, which has a Mildish hyd cam, headers, rpm intake, FBO ignition, stock heads, 9.1-1 compression, 3.73 gear and a 2800 stall tc.

 

[451Mopar]

As mentioned, a good carb with the upgrades is nearing the cost of the TBI EFI systems. With the carb, you could use a 650 to 850 cfm vacuum secondary or DP. The trick is having it tuned correctly.
My friend is running a 830 HP holley on a 340, but he had it professionally tuned with the help of a chassis dyno.
The smaller carb sizes will limit peak power, but transition to the main metering circuit sooner, so they make daily driving easier. With a large carb you have less airflow restriction and can make more power, but in slower street driving you will be driving with the throttle barely cracked and in the carbs idle/transition circuit, not the main metering circuit, and if it is not tuned correctly can cause problems.

 

[383man]

Ran a basic Holley 750 DP on my mild 383 years back and it worked great. We still run the 750 DP on the 400 now in my boys Dart as its jetted up more and runs mid 11's but it was no faster with an 830 anular carb or an 800 DP. That 750 just works good. Ron

 

[66bluewhale]

Anyone have any experience with holley 4150 750 dp?