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which alternator?

daytona kid

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I see that summit sells these 1 wire alternators which seems like might be a good way to go for me. I'd like some opinions/schooling on what I should get. My car will be slowly street driven very little (maybe 200 miles a year) and strip raced a few times per year. I'm not going to run any accessories other than lights.
Is a 1 wire alternator a good idea?
I notice there is a 100 & 60 amp, which would I need?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-8509rbpsp/overview/year/1968/make/dodge/model/charger
 
I see that summit sells these 1 wire alternators which seems like might be a good way to go for me. I'd like some opinions/schooling on what I should get. My car will be slowly street driven very little (maybe 200 miles a year) and strip raced a few times per year. I'm not going to run any accessories other than lights.
Is a 1 wire alternator a good idea?
I notice there is a 100 & 60 amp, which would I need?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-8509rbpsp/overview/year/1968/make/dodge/model/charger

I bought a single wire GM alternator...100 amp....chrome case..at a local shop for 100 new...very happy IM000904.JPG
 
I bought the PowerMaster 90 amp single wire for my street/strip 500" setup. Ran flexible 6gauge wire from alternator to non power side of cut off switch on bumper. That way if things go bad and power is cut off from switch the vehicle won't keep running. Of course I fused it in between. So far so good, my only problem is no real charging at idle, you need to spin it above 1500 for it to put out.
 
I bought the PowerMaster 90 amp single wire for my street/strip 500" setup. Ran flexible 6gauge wire from alternator to non power side of cut off switch on bumper. That way if things go bad and power is cut off from switch the vehicle won't keep running. Of course I fused it in between. So far so good, my only problem is no real charging at idle, you need to spin it above 1500 for it to put out.

One wire alts need the RPM to start then should give you power at idle
 
You don't need either. Factory unit more than enough to run ignition & lights. Unless you feel the need to throw away $200
 
Please explain....very interesting ...

The one wire alternator is self exciting and needs the increased RPM to create the electrical field to start charging if not it would have a power drain all the time
Factory hookups use power from the key to excite them so charge from the beginning
 
I buy the GM style one wire alternator from a local parts store for $40.00 with a life time warranty. They charge 14 volts all the time....works fantastic. The last one I put on a 360 in a Duster I had and used the factory Mopar brackets with no modifications at all. I decided to do it because the car had a history of charging problems and even over charging so bad it blew the headlights out....GM one wire took care of that...
 
You don't need either. Factory unit more than enough to run ignition & lights. Unless you feel the need to throw away $200

I don't have an alternator for my car yet and would like a chrome or polished one, and a 1 wire sounds simpler/cleaner. And I also was wondering if there might be some type more prefered for drag racing.

Wouldn't a 60 amp pull less power from the motor or would that be too small to matter?
 
The one wire alternator is self exciting and needs the increased RPM to create the electrical field to start charging if not it would have a power drain all the time
Factory hookups use power from the key to excite them so charge from the beginning


Thats right as the factory uses key on power to power the field (rotor) winding. The rotor is electro magnets but it has enough magnitism in it to to cut through the stator wiring and start charging once the alt is turning and then is sends power to the field and it will then charge at full charge if needed. Ron
 
I don't have an alternator for my car yet and would like a chrome or polished one, and a 1 wire sounds simpler/cleaner. And I also was wondering if there might be some type more prefered for drag racing.

Wouldn't a 60 amp pull less power from the motor or would that be too small to matter?

I have a brand new Tuff Stuff 100 amp one wire alternator Part#TFF-8509RDSP. Its a round back chrysler not a GM.I used it once then I bought a 250 amp alternator due to all my components.I would sell it at a discount. If you have any interest PM me and I will send you picks.Thanks,Joe
 
I buy the GM style one wire alternator from a local parts store for $40.00 with a life time warranty. They charge 14 volts all the time....works fantastic. The last one I put on a 360 in a Duster I had and used the factory Mopar brackets with no modifications at all. I decided to do it because the car had a history of charging problems and even over charging so bad it blew the headlights out....GM one wire took care of that...

Any idea what application you used or do you have a part number?
 
For my Coronet I just bought GM 1 Wire alternator from the local Alternator Shop for $100. I bought a couple steel spacers from the hardware store for the installation. I did replace the stock pulley with a big, deep grove, pulley just to slow down the spin on the alternator and give me a little more HP for the drag strip. Wouldn't do it for 100% street driving. I just ran a 10 gauge wire directly from the stud on the rear of the alternator all the way back and attached it directly to the positive battery post on 1 of my 2 batteries in the trunk (only because I did not know how to tie it into the key, etc, ...lol).

20170412_092010.jpg 20170327_144424.jpg 20170318_181300.jpg 20170316_144201.jpg
 
I use the Power Master Chrysler one wire 100 amp alt for my 63 and it works great. I like the fact that it looks just like the Mopar alt and works great. Reg is internal and it charges very good. Ron
 
I ended up with a Tuff Stuff chrome dual field 100 amp, it connected right to my M/H upgraded engine harness made for dual. No complaints. I switch my radiator e-fans off when I make a pass at the strip to keep the hp draw down.

20201113_193815.jpg
 
I have a racing buddy that runs an alternator and starter repair & rebuild shop. I asked his advice last year when I was having charging issues after installing electric cooling components. His advice was to go straight to a modern Denso alternator. All I had to do was rework the angle on the tension bracket, and everything bolted up perfectly. I now see 13.5 volts at idle with the fan on high and the pump running. I’m happy with the results.

3699774F-9DFB-4355-AE90-F2985208816E.jpeg
 
I buy the GM style one wire alternator from a local parts store for $40.00 with a life time warranty. They charge 14 volts all the time....works fantastic. The last one I put on a 360 in a Duster I had and used the factory Mopar brackets with no modifications at all. I decided to do it because the car had a history of charging problems and even over charging so bad it blew the headlights out....GM one wire took care of that...
I have a question...I'm trying to hook up a gm one wire to my 400 big block can you give me any pointers?
 
I have a question...I'm trying to hook up a gm one wire to my 400 big block can you give me any pointers?
Well...all I did was clip the ends off the field wires off and put some heat shrink on the ends then, I hid them in the factory harness. I just used the factory 12v wire that is already there to hook up to the GM alternator. It fit my factory alternator bracket after I made a small tab for the adjustment bolt. The tab bolts to the alternator and has a hole that you run the bolt for the adjustment side through. The first one I had on fit my bracket without the tab...not sure why this one didn’t. I would snap you a picture but, I have the engine out right now so, kinda hard to see how it looks when its all tore down.
 
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