• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Which Carb?

I don't know why you would copy and paste a link when your choices could have been copy and pasted in like below. Weird.

New Edelbrock Carburetor Thunder Series 650 cfm #1805

Holley 670 cfm Street Avenger Carb 0-81670 manual choke
Click to expand...

My answer is nethier since you can get them cheaper at Summit racing.
Ethier carb is good for use. I'd just do an electric choke carb since there is ZERO performance gain with a manual choke.
 
The edebrock is probably the closest thing to stock...One big thing that I found out when researching carbs..Use a vacum secoundary carb for heavier cars...The mechanical ones are for lighter cars...The edebrock will be easier to tune...You may get a little more from the holley but it will be harder to get it right...
Pettyt Blue 67 GTX
 
I am using the 650 Edelbrock Thunder and it is working very well on my 383.
 
My recommendation is the Edelbrock AFB.
 
Thanks for the advise. I did not mean to offend by posting with links. Why is there a performance gain by having a electric choke?

Summit is $40 higher in price plus shipping and handling.

Thanks again for the feedback.

Because I already have a Edelbrock it would be easier to swap to the Edelbrock 650 and if there isn't much performance/reliablity gain it looks
like I will order the Edelbrock with a electric choke.
 
K3522 said:
Thanks for the advise. I did not mean to offend by posting with links. Why is there a performance gain by having a electric choke?
Click to expand...
Eh, pictures are just better, no offense taken.
Theres no performance gain with an electric choke, it's just easier to start and run the car with one. Many people choose a manual choke thinking theres a HP gain when there is not.

Because I already have a Edelbrock it would be easier to swap to the Edelbrock 650 and if there isn't much performance/reliablity gain it looks
like I will order the Edelbrock with a electric choke.
Click to expand...

Yes, it would be easier to swap Edel. for edel. rathen than Edel. for Holley just on throttle cable issue. But there shouldn't be a big issue ethier way.

As stated above on Choke issue.
Click to expand...
 
What are you doing with the car and what was the 750 not doing for you to say it's too big? If you're looking for maximum mileage over performance, yeah, it's a bit on the big side but imo, the TQ gives you the best of both worlds. http://www.thermoquads.com/
 
The current carb is a Edelbrock Performer 750 (350-9907) which just did not have the low end throttle response and yes the mileage was bad (10 mpg).

My 383 has a Comp Cam XE268 224/230 at 50 and Aeroheads by Indy. I think a 650cfm carb would make for better driveablity/power for street driving and cruse-ins?
 
What is your compression ratio, cylinder cranking pressure, initial timing and total timing and when it is all in? Also, does the car feel slow until you hit say around 3000-3500 rpm? When the cam was installed, was it degreed in or just lined up the dots?
 
Compression 9.3 to 1, cam 2 degrees advance, timing 5 initial 34 total.
Just doesn't have snap response and power that it should have.

I just ordered the Edelbrock 1805 650 cfm late yesterday for $303.90
including shipping, new not reconditioned.
 
Which Carb

I'm running two Edelbrock 600 (AFB) w/manual chokes on a Max Wedge. They're absolutely the easiest-to-live-with carb ever. The 750 doesn't seem to be too big for your setup--what ratio is your differential?
 
Have you tried advancing the initial timing a little bit?
 
Have you done a cranking compression test?

As suggested, timing will heavily influence how your car runs. I don't think I've ever run a BB MoPar with 5 deg!! I'm at 12-15 on my 440 and 34 total. Your vacuum advance should be hooked to the ported port and add about 10 deg more during part throttle only. Your centrifugal (vac advance disconnected) should be all in by about 2500.
 
I'm with Meep-Meep. 5 degrees initial never worked with with any of my engines even with more compression....but, your cylinder cranking pressure will tell you more so check it. I think you jumped the gun a bit by buying a new carb before doing all you can do to get it running good with what you have. I don't like to direct members from one site to another but in some cases, it's good to interact if it helps one another. Read this white paper about tuning. Damon has several and he knows this stuff like the back of his hand. It's here http://www.moparstyle.com/forums/ho...te-papers/9924-ignition-101-a.html#post121704
It starts out with this and gets lengthly by "Damon Kuhn 3/10/2010,
Many times I have been asked about tuning an unresponsive carb only to find out the ignition was the real culprit- so here's a little info on that. One thing that many people fail to consider is that ignition and fuel are not only both required but also interact with each other in such a manner that if one is wrong, the other will not function properly. Also, if one is wrong , it may seem the other is the problem. Many bogging, acceleration deprived or other malady stricken engines have been mis-diagnosed as carb problems. Another common misconception is that you should set your engine according to what the shop manual says. While this may work, it surely will not be optimum......
 
I have 3:73 gears. The engine was rebuilt 5,000 miles ago by the prior owner. I have the engine shop receipts which looks like everything was done
right.

The vacuum advance has never been hooked up so I think I will try it this spring when the car comes out of storage before I put the new carb on. And I will check the compression too.

Thanks everyone.

Didn't 1968 Roadrunner's with a 383 have a Carter 650 when new?
 
I think they were 625 cfm.
 
K3522 said:
I have 3:73 gears. The engine was rebuilt 5,000 miles ago by the prior owner. I have the engine shop receipts which looks like everything was done
right.

The vacuum advance has never been hooked up so I think I will try it this spring when the car comes out of storage before I put the new carb on. And I will check the compression too.

Thanks everyone.

Didn't 1968 Roadrunner's with a 383 have a Carter 650 when new?
Click to expand...
And when these cars were new, the first things to come off were the factory carb, intake and exhaust manifolds and many even made a cam change. The smart guys then went with a recurved distributor with more initial and total advance. The same thing applies today only you have to be more mindful of the pump gas we have. Most cars off the lot ran pretty decent but after making changes, they were damn decent running!
 
K3522 said:
Replacing my Edelbrock Preformer 750 with one of the two below carbs
on my 383. FYI, the 750 was too big.

Opinions. Which one would you buy?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a613fe3f8

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Holl...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item255f8bf393
Click to expand...

You need to tune your 750 there is no way that its to big. I've 750's, 780's 850 double pumpers and two 660's on 383's sense 1962 and never had a problem when tuned right. And right now I'm running a Edlebrock 750 on my 318/391 stroker.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

440gtx1967
Carb recommendation
Replies
8
Views
2K
AR67GTX
AR67GTX
Strykr73
EGR To Non-EGR Conversion - Good Idea?
Replies
6
Views
5K
71Beeper
71Beeper
Isaiah Estrada
Carb Choice for Stock 440?
2
Replies
23
Views
16K
BSB67
BSB67
Jonas Nordstrom
My Carburetor journey.
2 3 4
Replies
79
Views
13K
Bee1971
Bee1971
Canadian1968
Proform 67101c install and write up.
Replies
7
Views
3K
Canadian1968
Canadian1968
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top