Which Electric Fuel pump and where to locate it - street driven only

[67convertible]

i did pull it out. the filter was off but it was not plugged. thanks for the idea for checking. i did look at my gas cap, it is a NON vent. I am going to drill a couple of 1/8" holes in it to "make it" a vented cap. I cannot find one around here for a '67 coronet

 

[Fran Blacker]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-71-Ply...ash=item5668b37389:g:hL8AAOSwAvJXAWX5&vxp=mtr Note 70/71 does it fit? Says it doesn't but somebody answer please.

 

[Ranger16]

i did pull it out. the filter was off but it was not plugged. thanks for the idea for checking. i did look at my gas cap, it is a NON vent. I am going to drill a couple of 1/8" holes in it to "make it" a vented cap. I cannot find one around here for a '67 coronet

One hole will suffice.
Keep in mind that you will probably spill fuel when you accelerate hard with a full tank.

P.S.
If your cap is non-vented, the car most likely has a vent system, so a vented cap would be redundant.

 

[bm02tj]

If you have any vacuum leaks in line before the pump it will draw air and not fuel
Cap the end at fuel pump then pressure test at tank connection

 

[bm02tj]

and replace your non vent cap with new one

 

[Fran Blacker]

bm02tj idea of sucking air is good it would be in the high areas near fuel line going to the front of car. Once you get to where the fuel line is in front of the rear wheels you would have a drip. If the hole in the gas cap doesn't work check the steel fuel line that goes to the front of car especially near the gas tank where it could drain back to tank and not leak. Could also run a temporary line back of car to front of car? A little wordy.

 

[LemonWedge]

I agree with the others that there has to be something else causing the issue. Pull the sending unit, it's likely clogged. If not, keep looking. Plenty of race cars going plenty fast with way bigger carbs on the same pump you're using.

 

[Shorthorse]

When the cars quits after being driven for a short distance, will the car start right back up or does it take a time period before it starts again?
If your problem is venting, at some time during removal of the gas cap you will hear the sound of air rushing back into the tank from the vacuum that was created. If it won't even keep up at idle, just loosen the cap, start the car and see if there's a difference. Better yet, loosen the cap and drive the car.

 

[67convertible]

there is "pressure" when i release the cap after driving and it quits. It does not sound or feel like a vacuum (air going in). i will try starting the car with he cap loose and see what happens. i will have to wait for the snow to melt (few days) before i can drive it again.

 

[Fran Blacker]

there is "pressure" when i release the cap after driving and it quits. It does not sound or feel like a vacuum (air going in). i will try starting the car with he cap loose and see what happens. i will have to wait for the snow to melt (few days) before i can drive it again.

Pressure or do you hear vacuum or you hear a exchange of air and can't tell if it's pressure or vacuum?

 

[oldbee]

Fran is right you shouldn't hear anything when removing cap. Not venting correctly.

 

[67convertible]

thanks.. venting is a problem because i do have Pressure.. have to hold the cap down when i open it. It is a vented cap, but i might drill an 1/8" hole in the top.

 

[Shorthorse]

I'm confused. You mentioned that you feel a pressure and have to hold the cap down. Positive pressure would actually assist the fuel pump by helping force fuel into the fuel line. Enough high pressure could even force fuel through the pump, past the needle and seat and result in rich or flooded conditions.
The venting is intended to prevent a vacuum from occurring when the gas/liquid volume decreases and the air volume increases inside the tank as it would in a sealed system. If there is no venting, at some point the vacuum in the tank becomes stronger than the pumps ability to pull the gas/liquid.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Yeah.... I think these guys might be right. Don't go swapping in an electric pump just yet. I've personally had a bunch of vapor lock problems & the squirters will go bone dry after a few squirts and the carburetor itself will likely be warm to the touch. Insulating my fuel line helped a little, but using a insulating carb gasket was what really fixed the problem for me. Pulling the gas cap was a good idea to eliminate a tank venting problem. It's "possible" the mechanical pump is just getting tired.... a fuel pressure gage would help, but I'm guessing you don't have one. Sending unit sock filter & in-line fuel filter are good things to check to while you at it.

 

[67convertible]

i am getting confused also now. So, i do have fuel pressure gauge (not liquid filled), at cold start up, reading 6psi and fuel filter (clear one for now) is 3/4 full. After 10 minutes, fuel pressure begins to drop, fuel filter clear for now) begins to drop. Fuel pressure goes to 1psi, and fuel filter, bowls dry. Pull the gas cap and have pressure. i tried this procedure (starting from cold) with the gas cap off and still happens. So, delays with the storm, i will finish installation of all the new components this week.. tank, 3/8" SS fuel line (wrapped), new fuel pushrod, new hoses, new eddy fuel pump (mechanical), insulated carb gasket (cool components) and see what happens... thanks for everyone's thoughts/ideas.. this is a great forum!!

 

[Ranger16]

After 10 minutes, fuel pressure begins to drop, fuel filter clear for now) begins to drop. Fuel pressure goes to 1psi, and fuel filter, bowls dry. Pull the gas cap and have pressure. i tried this procedure (starting from cold) with the gas cap off and still happens.

Kind of sounds like a bad pump.

 

[Fran Blacker]

If all of the stuff your trying doesn't work can you just start the car it the garage (door open duh) and let it idle and have it crap out? If so I'd idle until it quits. Then disconnect the hose on the inlet of the pump. Then run a line into a five gallon can next to the car. this will eliminate everything from the pump back. If it still craps out you have to look at pump etc. I wonder if a rubber hose is screwed up inside, you said you replaced them all. Had a front brake caliper that wouldn't release but after sitting it would be fine. Talked to a friendly mechanic at a garage that did work for me that I didn't have tool for or didn't want to do. He said your flexible hose is probably the problem. It comes apart on the inside and you push on the brake and it clogs the line so the brake takes time to release. Don't think this is your problem but. Let others said if this is unsafe before you do the line in the can trick.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

i am getting confused also now. So, i do have fuel pressure gauge (not liquid filled), at cold start up, reading 6psi and fuel filter (clear one for now) is 3/4 full. After 10 minutes, fuel pressure begins to drop, fuel filter clear for now) begins to drop. Fuel pressure goes to 1psi, and fuel filter, bowls dry. Pull the gas cap and have pressure. i tried this procedure (starting from cold) with the gas cap off and still happens. So, delays with the storm, i will finish installation of all the new components this week.. tank, 3/8" SS fuel line (wrapped), new fuel pushrod, new hoses, new eddy fuel pump (mechanical), insulated carb gasket (cool components) and see what happens... thanks for everyone's thoughts/ideas.. this is a great forum!!

Well.... you've now said three times that it's PRESSURE and not vacuum, so I believe you. The only way to get pressure is with boiling fuel (aka "vapor lock"). When I had vapor lock, it behaved EXACTLY like what you're describing. fyi- you may have a blocked gas tank vent too, but that's not the problem.

To be SURE, you should have these two symptoms:
1. In about 30-60 min., the car will start right back up & have 6psi fuel pressure without doing anything at all to it.
2. When it starts to act up (maybe after 5 min.) you can keep the car running pretty decently by covering the carburetor/fuel bowls with an ice pack. I got my car home about 5 miles once using a shop rag from my trunk and a large cup of ice I got from Burger King.

 

[Shorthorse]

i am getting confused also now. So, i do have fuel pressure gauge (not liquid filled), at cold start up, reading 6psi and fuel filter (clear one for now) is 3/4 full. After 10 minutes, fuel pressure begins to drop, fuel filter clear for now) begins to drop. Fuel pressure goes to 1psi, and fuel filter, bowls dry. Pull the gas cap and have pressure. i tried this procedure (starting from cold) with the gas cap off and still happens. So, delays with the storm, i will finish installation of all the new components this week.. tank, 3/8" SS fuel line (wrapped), new fuel pushrod, new hoses, new eddy fuel pump (mechanical), insulated carb gasket (cool components) and see what happens... thanks for everyone's thoughts/ideas.. this is a great forum!!

This is a good one. Do you plan on switching everything at once or checking the symptoms after each individual change? It would be nice to know exactly what the cause of the problem is. Regardless, good luck and keep us informed.

 

[67convertible]

Purplebeeper, i do have those symptoms. it only takes about 20 minutes idling for issue to start. AND, once it cools down, the fuel filter fills up and i crank it up, back to 6psi.. i have not tried the ice around the carb/intake.
Shorthorse - i tried elimination path and was getting no where in fixing the problem. i have now installed the tank, 3/8' sending unit, new SS 3/8" fuel line, new 3/8" rubber hoses, made a new aluminum vent tube and new 3/4" hose to the filler tube, new eddy pump, new 3.22" (checked) pump pushrod, cool components thermal barrier.. i will add gas tonight (open the garage door, ). Then see what happens!!! If it starts the issue, i will try the ice around the intake!!!