CompSyn
Well-Known Member
Except none of the aforementioned companies actually publish what type and percentage of base stocks they are using. This leads to speculation and best guessing.
Which Oil AFTER Initial Break In?
- Thread starter ykf7b0
- Start date
Except none of the aforementioned companies actually publish what type and percentage of base stocks they are using. This leads to speculation and best guessing.
68 HEMI GTS
Well-Known Member
I contacted valvoline today. The rep said the silver VR1 bottle has 1400ppm zinc and is fine for flat tappets.
Slap Stick
Well-Known Member
Royal Purple has (or had) on their website which oils were which stocks and even stated the group 5 oils were best suited to race engines which get the oil drained frequentlly because it didnt have the ingredients suitable for long term use.
CompSyn
Well-Known Member
Could it be Royal Purple had or has an article or something posted on their website referencing different base stocks and their purported performance attributes?
Publishing what type and what percentage of base oil used in their products; Royal Purple has never done it. In fact no company in the U.S. has done it that I know of. Although, I have seen people post in the forums their reported phone conversions to the tech department at Red Line where they are told a vague percentage of a certain base oil but nothing that is formally published.
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HT413
Semi Pro Bowler
I wiped out my cam in my 451 because when I changed my oil after breakin, i went to a traditional oil and used a questionable additive (STP which said zinc on it but had bad reviews come to find out).
Now before that, for years I ran rotella with in my 413 with no additive and no issues - but it was long since broken in.
Now I just broke in my fresh 451... used Joe Gibbs breakin oil now went to Lucas hot rod oil and no issues after breakin plus maybe 100-120 miles.
So for me, since we can get the Lucas stuff (or Joe Gibbs, Penn Grade, etc) for a reasonable cost at summit, seems like a no brainer - even if from here on out it's just a superstition.
Now before that, for years I ran rotella with in my 413 with no additive and no issues - but it was long since broken in.
Now I just broke in my fresh 451... used Joe Gibbs breakin oil now went to Lucas hot rod oil and no issues after breakin plus maybe 100-120 miles.
So for me, since we can get the Lucas stuff (or Joe Gibbs, Penn Grade, etc) for a reasonable cost at summit, seems like a no brainer - even if from here on out it's just a superstition.
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Slap Stick
Well-Known Member
Royal Purple states on their website they use only non paraffin base stocks. That tells me ester based.
They say the only mineral based oil they make is the break in oil.
A friend has late model and modified dirt cars. He had a deal on RP oil and used it in both cars burning straight alcohol. Engines burning alcohol have to be jetted so rich it gets past the rings and contaminates the oil. After a night of racing he would drain the oil into a steel pan. The oil and alk stayed separate. He tossed a match into the pan and burned off the alcohol. The oil went right back in the oil tank.
Do that with a mineral based oil.....
They say the only mineral based oil they make is the break in oil.
A friend has late model and modified dirt cars. He had a deal on RP oil and used it in both cars burning straight alcohol. Engines burning alcohol have to be jetted so rich it gets past the rings and contaminates the oil. After a night of racing he would drain the oil into a steel pan. The oil and alk stayed separate. He tossed a match into the pan and burned off the alcohol. The oil went right back in the oil tank.
Do that with a mineral based oil.....
HT413
Semi Pro Bowler
CompSyn
Well-Known Member
The oil companies are very good at playing word games with consumers, e.g., well they said this so it must mean that, etc... a lot of assumptions floating around out there.
As a data point for this thread consider calling or e-mailing Royal Purple. Request that you'd like to know the type(s) and quantitie(s) of each base oil used to formulate their product(s). Report back the carefully crafted marketing jargon they forward to you.
Slap Stick
Well-Known Member
You must be an Amsoil rep!
Face fact. Would you give up trade secrets?
Redline says the class of esters they use.
Face fact. Would you give up trade secrets?
Redline says the class of esters they use.
CompSyn
Well-Known Member
Oh, I'm not singling out Royal Purple. When I referenced "oil companies", I meant everyone, Amsoil included. Exact formula info is not openly published. That's why I challenge anyone when they make absolute statements on the topic.
As I recall, Redline's e-mail correspondence states somewhere north of 50% Ester, which is likely higher than most top tier synthetics, yet still not exactly 100% transparency.
Honestly, IMO, there are so many good oils on the market today. It's not like it was back in the 1970s. I'm really over the who has the best "true synthetic" motor oil debate. Even conventional motor oil is way better than it used to be. I've found that as I've gotten older, it's more about value-per-dollar and not forking out the coin for what is perceived to be "Best". Haven't had an oil related engine failure yet or an engine failure at all for that matter. In fact, I'd imagine all my engines will likely outlast my vehicles irregardless of what motor oil I'm using.
When I started this thread I was looking for recommendations for oil After the initial 20-30 minute break in. I got nervous/paranoid with the low zinc content of the Brad Penn Break In Oil for the initial start and drained it without firing the engine. I then got some Lucas Break In Oil (high zinc) and fired the engine after re-priming and she made it through the first 25-30 minutes without incident. I drained the Lucas out and replaced the Fram filter with a new one. I probably would have been fine with the Brad Penn but the Lucas high zinc appealed to me especially after 3 cam manufacturer techs said to go for the high zinc. I now have Valvoline VR 1 Racing 10w30 (silver bottle) in and ready to go for the next 50 or so miles.
Enough. I've got over 75k on the 440. Not easy miles. A lot of romping and WOT. I won't put anything except Amsoil Signature Synthetic 10-40 in it. High Zinc. I don't sell it.
0-30 Amsoil in the modern Hemis. Don't care what it cost. Can't get cheaper insurance.
0-30 Amsoil in the modern Hemis. Don't care what it cost. Can't get cheaper insurance.
Enough from me, I'm out. Lots of opinions and personal preference. Lots of good info here. Use what you feel is best for your needs. Good luck with your motor.
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HT413
Semi Pro Bowler
This ain't heart surgery, you don't need the finest on God's green earth; just something that can do the job right. And that's what this thread is about.
In the end, this is no different than managing a baseball team. If it works you're a hero; if it backfires you're a bum. I think you'd have been in great shape with the Penn Grade, but hey the Lucas is a great product too so today you're a hero and not a bum.
Slap Stick
Well-Known Member
Someone who is concerned about the oil uses a Fram filter?
I knew that was coming when I intentionally posted my Fram use. I've heard the horror stories regarding Fram but I've used them my whole life and never a problem. Maybe I'm not as paranoid as I seem. ????? I would love to read your horror story with a Fram filter.
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Slap Stick
Well-Known Member
There is nothing inside to suggest it is a filter.
The anti drainback valve doesnt. In fact years ago Ford issued a bulletin to all dealers about engines knocking on startup. It was found everyone who had the problem used Frams.
With all the evidence on why you shouldnt be using them I am surprised you ignore it knowing its out there.
I have cut one open. Pure crap.
The anti drainback valve doesnt. In fact years ago Ford issued a bulletin to all dealers about engines knocking on startup. It was found everyone who had the problem used Frams.
With all the evidence on why you shouldnt be using them I am surprised you ignore it knowing its out there.
I have cut one open. Pure crap.
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