Who has adequate working AC? CAA, or Vintage.

[Dennis H]

Or Chrysler Air-Temp for that matter. Hours of blather here, but who really has it working properly. Distribution is a whole other subject. My CAA has been ice cold since install. About 15 years. Secret? After components installed, took it to an AC only shop to charge it and check fittings. Done. Enough to keep you alive in Reno in August.

 

[1STMP]

 

[F4R/T]

I’m working on mine for my 68 it was all messed up, but it will work and correctly! I just haven’t decided if I want R-12 or 134A in it.

 

[kiwigtx]

Vintage Air here .....it works OK....adequate is a good description. Perfection is a ways off.
Had mine professionally installed using a mix-match of components but it works well enough.

I have been told if the temp is down too cold you can freeze the condenser...so I'm always wary of that.

 

[Kern Dog]

Mine was never as cold as my late model cars. It was better than nothing.
Mine keeps crapping out though. I don't have a way to trace leaks so When I'm ready, I'll let the shop that I use take a stab at it.
I sent Dwayne's Plymouth there...

He seems happy with his system.

 

[Paul_G]

In my 73 I am using the factory original AC/heater box. Firewall forward, I got a kit from Bouchilan Performance. Sanden compressor and mounting brackets, filter dryer, freeze switch, condensor coil, and all fittings and hoses. It is an r134 system and blows ice cold in 110° heat.

They key to the entire system is in the heater control valve. New ones suck and do not completey stop the hot water from circulating in the heater core. The AC will never blow cold like that. Randy at Bouchillan told me to disconect the heater hoses and see what happens. It blew ice cold after that.

My 72 Sat being restored right now is factory AC car with a busted heater box. I would like to use the smaller aftermarket under dash system in that car. I too dont know which ones work the best, I hope the answer comes here.

 

[1967coronet]

In my 73 I am using the factory original AC/heater box. Firewall forward, I got a kit from Bouchilan Performance. Sanden compressor and mounting brackets, filter dryer, freeze switch, condensor coil, and all fittings and hoses. It is an r134 system and blows ice cold in 110° heat.

They key to the entire system is in the heater control valve. New ones suck and do not completey stop the hot water from circulating in the heater core. The AC will never blow cold like that. Randy at Bouchillan told me to disconect the heater hoses and see what happens. It blew ice cold after that.

My 72 Sat being restored right now is factory AC car with a busted heater box. I would like to use the smaller aftermarket under dash system in that car. I too dont know which ones work the best, I hope the answer comes here.

Your on the money with the heater control valve. My brothers car has vintage air and was always just ok.
When the ac was off you could still feel a little warm air through the box.
He stuck a small ball valve in the inbound hot coolant hose and closed it.
Problem solved, really helped the ac.

 

[68BabyBlue]

The Demonstrator has the original Chrysler Air Temp system converted to 134, after being restored with NOS parts, still has the original high pressure hose with correct date code on the fitting. Blew ice cold on the way home from Carlisle, on the lowest setting, in 95 degree heat. System hasn't been charged since last year. Condensation and frost on the lines was a real conversation starter when I popped the hood on the show field.

 

[T2R9]

In my 73 I am using the factory original AC/heater box. Firewall forward, I got a kit from Bouchilan Performance. Sanden compressor and mounting brackets, filter dryer, freeze switch, condensor coil, and all fittings and hoses. It is an r134 system and blows ice cold in 110° heat.

They key to the entire system is in the heater control valve. New ones suck and do not completey stop the hot water from circulating in the heater core. The AC will never blow cold like that. Randy at Bouchillan told me to disconect the heater hoses and see what happens. It blew ice cold after that.

My 72 Sat being restored right now is factory AC car with a busted heater box. I would like to use the smaller aftermarket under dash system in that car. I too dont know which ones work the best, I hope the answer comes here.

Same basic setup I have. I used the Classic AA firewall forward system. I did add an inline ball valve after about a year when I was fighting low temp issues. This helped but the problem was two fold. The shop I had crimp the hoses must have a worn out crimper as all 4 crimps they did failed one after another over the course of a year and a half. I finally bought my own crimper and re-did all of them and now it is ice cold. We shall see how long it holds.

 

[Sixpactogo]

I rebuilt the factory AC heater box and controller. Had the evaporator pressure tested and replaced the heater valve and water valve in my 68 Charger back in 2014-15 when I upgraded the engine to a 6.1 from a 2006 SRT8. I am using the compressor from the SRT8 and 134 freon. Other than that, I installed a new dryer, expansion valve and condenser & had new plumbing fabricated under the hood. My AC has worked perfectly since then with no leaks or issues. Hope I didn't just jinx myself but nine trouble free seasons ain't too bad IMO.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Mine was never as cold as my late model cars. It was better than nothing.
Mine keeps crapping out though. I don't have a way to trace leaks so When I'm ready, I'll let the shop that I use take a stab at it.
I sent Dwayne's Plymouth there...

He seems happy with his system.

The newly installed Vintage Air in my '68 Satellite works very well and blows cold. It's only been a few months though, so the jury is out until next year to confirm no slow leaks.
I'm curious to try installing a ball valve inline with the hot coolant heater hose like others have mentioned to see if it can be improved even further.

 

[Dennis H]

My old CAA uses the cable control box. When first using ac, always pop the hood and snug the firewall/passenger side valve to ensure all hot water drip is off. Cables have stretched over 50+ years so it always moves a smidgeon when pushed.

 

[Rusty knuckles]

My factory system works. I think the rv2 could use a rebuild and i think my fan resistor needs replaced but it keeps it comfortable on a hot day. It was 90deg this morning and I was just fine cruising down the highway. We'll see what it's like this afternoon when it's 104.

 

[cr8crshr]

Or Chrysler Air-Temp for that matter. Hours of blather here, but who really has it working properly. Distribution is a whole other subject. My CAA has been ice cold since install. About 15 years. Secret? After components installed, took it to an AC only shop to charge it and check fittings. Done. Enough to keep you alive in Reno in August.

You're gonna need it that's for sure!!! cr8crshr/Bill

 

[Scott Engelhardt]

My 65 has Vintage Air. My air is cold, when the sun is coming in from the side windows I have to run the fan on high. I am putting tint on the side windows to help with this. If the sun is coming in the rear window or the windshield, I can run the fan on low and be perfectly comfortable.

 

[kiwigtx]

Your on the money with the heater control valve. My brothers car has vintage air and was always just ok.
When the ac was off you could still feel a little warm air through the box.
He stuck a small ball valve in the inbound hot coolant hose and closed it.
Problem solved, really helped the ac.

I might have to try that out. Thanks.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Same basic setup I have. I used the Classic AA firewall forward system. I did add an inline ball valve after about a year when I was fighting low temp issues. This helped but the problem was two fold. The shop I had crimp the hoses must have a worn out crimper as all 4 crimps they did failed one after another over the course of a year and a half. I finally bought my own crimper and re-did all of them and now it is ice cold. We shall see how long it holds.

View attachment 1705060

Any chance you can share a link or valve ordering info? I like that the handle is blue. I stopped into NAPA Friday and they didn't have any.

 

[gtxdana]

I have three vehicles with the later series of Vintage Air systems that come with an electronic water shutoff valve. All three blow ice cold, but the one car without tinted windows has to work harder to keep the interior cool when it's 90-100 degrees outside due to the sunload on the interior from the non-tinted glass.

My GTX is getting tinted glass and Classic Auto Air with some changes to the underhood hose/pipe routing. It looks like it has the same water shutoff valve that VA uses.

 

[T2R9]

Any chance you can share a link or valve ordering info? I like that the handle is blue. I stopped into NAPA Friday and they didn't have any.

I can get it for you later today. I bought it from Amazon. It’s stainless and operates really smooth.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

I don’t know if this is the one @T2R9
has, but it’s one I’ve gotten at Oreillys and have used. @Kern Dog , you might want to do the same and see if it helps. I’ve never had a b body with working air, but I’ve had a 68 dodge pickup and my 78 lil red with air that worked good

https://a.co/d/btedTxb