texas69bee
Well-Known Member
Lewtot... Beautiful car. How original is it? My real question is if it had a white stripe, didn't it come with white interior? Either way... Still hot looking!
Who has Dyno'd their car? Share your combo/results
- Thread starter bigmanjbmopar
- Start date
lewtot184
Well-Known Member
this is what the car looks like now. it is a factory white stripe/green interior car. the interior is original other than the bottom of the drivers seat and all is in pretty good shape. the vinyl top is original, no rust or bubbles underneath, but shows some age. all panels, floor pans, spare tire, chrome, trim, am-8 track, and glass are original. it's number matching. i have the build sheet and fender tag. it does have power steering and power brakes added. it has about 56,000 original miles and drives nicely.
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cwhubb
Well-Known Member
I apologise for bushwacking your thread, Don't you get scared when they spin your engine to max performance rpm, I've only seen it on tv and video but man they make it scream when they test it, I know thats the point but still.
lewtot184
Well-Known Member
i was standing beside the engine when then wound it up. the operator shut it off at 5300rpm and i knew the oil system was good for more than that. a funny story; the shop i went to did a bunch of small block mustang/camaro computer car stuff and didn't get too many old muscle cars. when those carbs opened up and the exhaust roared it actually cleared out the office and even the women came out to see what was going on. they gave me a t-shirt and complimented on the car because most of the muscle cars they dealt with were dogs. i had some fun that day.
cwhubb
Well-Known Member
lol nothing sounds like a mopar engine
lewtot184
Well-Known Member
cool!
kowalski
Well-Known Member
Especially a 6 pak Mopar engine!
bobtile
Well-Known Member
http://youtu.be/WhG8TIpa_ic
For some reason they said the dyno wasn't compatible with my MSD ignition. It read HP, but no torque or rpm, so it was useless to me. HP was 392 at the wheels.
For some reason they said the dyno wasn't compatible with my MSD ignition. It read HP, but no torque or rpm, so it was useless to me. HP was 392 at the wheels.
70B
Well-Known Member
Anyone know of a reputable dyno in North Ga.? What do they usually cost (per hour?)? I just got done stuffing a 440 in my car and wanted to find out if it's living up to it's claimed HP!
bigmanjbmopar
Newb with a view
Well went to the Dyno and it made 375 at the wheels with 412 torque! lmao that calcs out to be about 460 at the crank with 508 tq. 508 torque.... woot! so bottom line is I got what I built a torque monster, and my heads are still not worked, supposedly another 100 hp out of them which now seem like a worth while endeavor 560 at the crank? I can live with that 
I fell off at 5100 - 5200 we didn't take it to 5500 probably could have but there was no point in that. I feel real good about the rpm range it has. It is a nice cruiser.
my A/F ratio was a bit lean on WOT so need to work on that a bit but the timing was good no issues or weird bumps during the pulls. A/F is very close, got a gauge and co2 sensor coming to dial it right in. only like 1-2 points to adjust to make it right on. so close!
What do you guys think of these HP & TQ numbers? remember - yes it is a stroked 440 (493) but the manifold is a dual plane eddy rpm performer, the carb is a QFT 780 vac sec. the cam is a comp retro fit basically i step above stock for the most part (hyd roller). The 493 makes it such a torque monster lol This was all I really wanted when I built it. now I want that and a nice driver. looks like it's there. another 100 hp would be awesome though So I guess I wont have to commit suicide! lmao
I fell off at 5100 - 5200 we didn't take it to 5500 probably could have but there was no point in that. I feel real good about the rpm range it has. It is a nice cruiser.
my A/F ratio was a bit lean on WOT so need to work on that a bit but the timing was good no issues or weird bumps during the pulls. A/F is very close, got a gauge and co2 sensor coming to dial it right in. only like 1-2 points to adjust to make it right on. so close!
What do you guys think of these HP & TQ numbers? remember - yes it is a stroked 440 (493) but the manifold is a dual plane eddy rpm performer, the carb is a QFT 780 vac sec. the cam is a comp retro fit basically i step above stock for the most part (hyd roller). The 493 makes it such a torque monster lol This was all I really wanted when I built it. now I want that and a nice driver. looks like it's there. another 100 hp would be awesome though
So I guess I wont have to commit suicide! lmao383man
Well-Known Member
I am like others here as the track is my dyno also. To me chassis dyno's are great for tunning your car. But I have never put my car on a dyno as I never seem to have the spare money lately anyway and I dont like the idea of some guy pushing my car to 6k or whatever as I prefer to do that myself. I do laugh though when I hear someone bragging about the power their car made and when I ask them whats it run at the track they say........oh I dont race it ??? So I guess he dyno's it for bragging rights ?? Reminds me of a buddy years back who bragged his Camaro made over 600 hp but at the track it only ran 12.80's ! I said wow as my Dart at that time ran 11.90's with just 425 hp at the crank going by the 1/4 mile mph and the car weight calculator. Ron
- - - Updated - - -
Well it sounds like the cam is very small for a 493 and with that many cubes you want some good heads to make it all work. Get more cam and better heads and take advantage of the cubes. I run a 493 also and I also use a dual plane intake as I use the Indy dual plane intake with the Holley 850 DP carb but the Eddy RPM dual plane is a good intake for a street car. I never dyno'd mine but it weighs just over 3700 lbs with me in it and going by my nearly 125 trap mph I guess mine makes around 600 flywheel hp. I use a solid flat tappet cam and the basic EZ heads with a little work. So if you step up to better heads and more cam there is alot more power there for you to make. Good luck with it. Ron
- - - Updated - - -
Well went to the Dyno and it made 375 at the wheels with 412 torque! lmao that calcs out to be about 460 at the crank with 508 tq. 508 torque.... woot! so bottom line is I got what I built a torque monster, and my heads are still not worked, supposedly another 100 hp out of them which now seem like a worth while endeavor 560 at the crank? I can live with that
I fell off at 5100 - 5200 we didn't take it to 5500 probably could have but there was no point in that. I feel real good about the rpm range it has. It is a nice cruiser.
my A/F ratio was a bit lean on WOT so need to work on that a bit but the timing was good no issues or weird bumps during the pulls. A/F is very close, got a gauge and co2 sensor coming to dial it right in. only like 1-2 points to adjust to make it right on. so close!
What do you guys think of these HP & TQ numbers? remember - yes it is a stroked 440 (493) but the manifold is a dual plane eddy rpm performer, the carb is a QFT 780 vac sec. the cam is a comp retro fit basically i step above stock for the most part (hyd roller). The 493 makes it such a torque monster lol This was all I really wanted when I built it. now I want that and a nice driver. looks like it's there. another 100 hp would be awesome though
Well it sounds like the cam is very small for a 493 and with that many cubes you want some good heads to make it all work. Get more cam and better heads and take advantage of the cubes. I run a 493 also and I also use a dual plane intake as I use the Indy dual plane intake with the Holley 850 DP carb but the Eddy RPM dual plane is a good intake for a street car. I never dyno'd mine but it weighs just over 3700 lbs with me in it and going by my nearly 125 trap mph I guess mine makes around 600 flywheel hp. I use a solid flat tappet cam and the basic EZ heads with a little work. So if you step up to better heads and more cam there is alot more power there for you to make. Good luck with it. Ron
bigmanjbmopar
Newb with a view
Yeah cam is a bit small but over all I think I nailed what I was trying to achieve in this build, a 9-1 (9.6-1)compression with good torque at low to mid ranges where it will be spending 99% of its life, its a nice streetable cruiser with a nice manageable idle but can lay down 500 ft lb to the ground. I had no intention to race this motor at all so for what it has I think it's ok.
Could it be better? heck yeah with different parts in there, I rest easy knowing there is still some HP to tap out of those heads but over all I am pleased with the end result which dam near looks like the numbers that I figured on paper with this combo.
Considering lessons learned there are things I would do different, like different cam, heads etc
For me I wanted a motor to run on todays gas with lots and lots of streetable torque, Next motor maybe a solid roller indy head death machine lmao!
Could it be better? heck yeah with different parts in there, I rest easy knowing there is still some HP to tap out of those heads but over all I am pleased with the end result which dam near looks like the numbers that I figured on paper with this combo.
Considering lessons learned there are things I would do different, like different cam, heads etc
For me I wanted a motor to run on todays gas with lots and lots of streetable torque, Next motor maybe a solid roller indy head death machine lmao!
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Cylinder-heads cylinder-heads cylinder-heads
If IRC your cylinder heads are basically out of the box {OOTB} just cleaned up std. port Stealth's
{OOTB they flow like 250cfm equates to about 500 HP capability max @ the crank, about 15%-25% less at the wheels, "depending on parasitic drag from the drivetrain/trans etc., just from the heads standpoint}
no doubt that your biggest choke point, even more than the camshaft is,
especially with a larger ci stroker/wedge,
even a larger cfm carb could help flow some too,
BUT
ci x rpm divided by 3456 = cfm needed
493 x 5500 div. 3456 = 784cfm @ 100% efficiency
Ball parking your probably more like 75%-80% efficiency
75% add another 25% 196cfm that's @ 980cfm of flow needed,
to a lessor but more efficient 80%, add another 20% 156cfm that's @ 940cfm needed
90% would be somewhat realistic #'s add another 78cfm = 858cfm, compared to the 780cfm you have
probably why many run the 850cfm carbs with great success... especially with the better flowing heads
BUT
it really needs better free flowing cylinder heads to take advantage, of the larger displacements
& it's somewhat of a HP killer, with another 50-60cfm you could make, easily another 100hp
a decent formula for ballparking the flow #'s vs HP as to the heads ;
cylinderhead cfm flow x 2.06 {hp/per cfm} = possible crank HP,
at a given max gross valve lift lets just say 0.500"
if it flows 300cfm at 0.500" gross valve lift
Ported example; 300cfm x 2.06 = 618hp crank hp
with the OOTB heads
OOTB example; 250cfm x 2.06 = 515hp crank hp
That's probably over simplifying it but...
Even just pocket porting/the short-side radius, under the valves &
casting flash removed, open the port entry & blend the ports down about an 1"
to gasket match the intake also, would improve HP & TQ rating
adding a larger intake valve, with a 50* 1st cut on the seats, a competition valve job
could bump it up slightly more too,
without even changing the camshaft !!
albeit it more valve lift would help too,
even going from a 1.5:1 to a 1.6:1 rocker would add 10% gross valve lift, not effect the duration much
but the heads are choking it...
good luck & Happy Moparing
If IRC your cylinder heads are basically out of the box {OOTB} just cleaned up std. port Stealth's
{OOTB they flow like 250cfm equates to about 500 HP capability max @ the crank, about 15%-25% less at the wheels, "depending on parasitic drag from the drivetrain/trans etc., just from the heads standpoint}
no doubt that your biggest choke point, even more than the camshaft is,
especially with a larger ci stroker/wedge,
even a larger cfm carb could help flow some too,
BUT
ci x rpm divided by 3456 = cfm needed
493 x 5500 div. 3456 = 784cfm @ 100% efficiency
Ball parking your probably more like 75%-80% efficiency
75% add another 25% 196cfm that's @ 980cfm of flow needed,
to a lessor but more efficient 80%, add another 20% 156cfm that's @ 940cfm needed
90% would be somewhat realistic #'s add another 78cfm = 858cfm, compared to the 780cfm you have
probably why many run the 850cfm carbs with great success... especially with the better flowing heads
BUT
it really needs better free flowing cylinder heads to take advantage, of the larger displacements
& it's somewhat of a HP killer, with another 50-60cfm you could make, easily another 100hp
a decent formula for ballparking the flow #'s vs HP as to the heads ;
cylinderhead cfm flow x 2.06 {hp/per cfm} = possible crank HP,
at a given max gross valve lift lets just say 0.500"
if it flows 300cfm at 0.500" gross valve lift
Ported example; 300cfm x 2.06 = 618hp crank hp
with the OOTB heads
OOTB example; 250cfm x 2.06 = 515hp crank hp
That's probably over simplifying it but...
Even just pocket porting/the short-side radius, under the valves &
casting flash removed, open the port entry & blend the ports down about an 1"
to gasket match the intake also, would improve HP & TQ rating
adding a larger intake valve, with a 50* 1st cut on the seats, a competition valve job
could bump it up slightly more too,
without even changing the camshaft !!
albeit it more valve lift would help too,
even going from a 1.5:1 to a 1.6:1 rocker would add 10% gross valve lift, not effect the duration much
but the heads are choking it...
good luck & Happy Moparing
383man
Well-Known Member
Thats the most important factor and that is that you are happy with it and met your goal. Its the same for me as I met my goal with my build which was to run 10's in full street trim on pump gas through the full exh. Is there more to be found in it ?? You bet your butt !! But I have not went after it at all yet the same as you. But being happy with your build and enjoying it is the most important part of it to me. Ron
fratzog lover
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2011 Mustang GT 408 at the wheels. Just a cold air kit, tune and Stainlessworks chambered exhaust. Worth it even paying for 93 octane.
Last edited:
bigmanjbmopar
Newb with a view
I have an 850 QFT mech sitting on the bench, the plan is to get these heads cleaned up real good maybe some tricks to the intake as well, stick that 850 back on it and give it another go heck for only $80 for 4 base line runs I could do a dyno every week After that put the 780 back on it and let it ride. I will be getting new springs etc. first.
then after Racer X gives a price for the work( $$$$$) send over the heads and manifold with new parts. Double springs.
At that point I would expect to see over 500 at the crank hopefully around 530-550, the last Dyno run was at settings 16% loss, 80° temps (it was 75), 29.9% barometric standard stuff for Honda guys lol I know for a fact between the 3.55, 727 stock drive line the loss is at least 20% I think its around 35%. lol
Next run I will have him put in the actual settings for that day, May take me another year to get it all done but I know It is there to be tapped and that is a good feeling. It was a gamble getting these 440source stealth heads just hope it pays off in the end.
Are these the right parts, As 440source says you have to replace Springs, retainers, locators and seals and get shims. Upgrading to the titanium retainers.
List:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-924-16
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-732-16
www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4757
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4700-16
http://store.440source.com/All-Teflon-Valve-Seals-11_32-stem-_-530-OD-guide/productinfo/101-1049/
Info from 440source:
cams up to .600" lift. Use these springs together with our 145-1003 Comp 10 degree Retainers, and our 145-1002 Comp 10 degree Locks for a perfectly matched valvetrain setup. Due to the small inner diameter of the inner springs, these require using reduced diameter teflon type "PC" valve seals, use our part number 101-1049, as well as Comp's special inner spring locator shims, our part number 145-1015. Will not work with the stock black rubber type seals which are supplied on our Stealth heads, since they are too large of a diameter.
Info from Comp Cams
http://www.compperformancegroupstor...&Product_Code=924-16&Category_Code=WedgeValve
After that put the 780 back on it and let it ride. I will be getting new springs etc. first. then after Racer X gives a price for the work( $$$$$) send over the heads and manifold with new parts. Double springs.
At that point I would expect to see over 500 at the crank hopefully around 530-550, the last Dyno run was at settings 16% loss, 80° temps (it was 75), 29.9% barometric standard stuff for Honda guys lol I know for a fact between the 3.55, 727 stock drive line the loss is at least 20% I think its around 35%. lol
Next run I will have him put in the actual settings for that day, May take me another year to get it all done but I know It is there to be tapped and that is a good feeling. It was a gamble getting these 440source stealth heads just hope it pays off in the end.
Are these the right parts, As 440source says you have to replace Springs, retainers, locators and seals and get shims. Upgrading to the titanium retainers.
List:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-924-16
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-732-16
www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4757
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4700-16
http://store.440source.com/All-Teflon-Valve-Seals-11_32-stem-_-530-OD-guide/productinfo/101-1049/
Info from 440source:
cams up to .600" lift. Use these springs together with our 145-1003 Comp 10 degree Retainers, and our 145-1002 Comp 10 degree Locks for a perfectly matched valvetrain setup. Due to the small inner diameter of the inner springs, these require using reduced diameter teflon type "PC" valve seals, use our part number 101-1049, as well as Comp's special inner spring locator shims, our part number 145-1015. Will not work with the stock black rubber type seals which are supplied on our Stealth heads, since they are too large of a diameter.
Info from Comp Cams
http://www.compperformancegroupstor...&Product_Code=924-16&Category_Code=WedgeValve
fratzog lover
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Lew, thats a beautiful vintage sight kids today cant appreciate.
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