Who has used a 440 crank in a 383 block?

[polyjohn]

Its like the 80's and 90's all over again.
Hybrid stroker Mopar engines with Chevy and Ford parts!

Just buy a balanced kit from 440 Source and throw it in your block, its dead simples...

Yep we all have a 440 turned down crank and stuff waiting for a custom build.
But a 512ci kit from Brandon and its off too the races in a heartbeat.

My Moparmate has got a 512ci in his grocery getter Polara too.
Cheap as chips as we say in England...

 

[33 IMP]

Its like the 80's and 90's all over again.
Hybrid stroker Mopar engines with Chevy and Ford parts!

Just buy a balanced kit from 440 Source and throw it in your block, its dead simples...

Yep we all have a 440 turned down crank and stuff waiting for a custom build.
But a 512ci kit from Brandon and its off too the races in a heartbeat.

My Moparmate has got a 512ci in his grocery getter Polara too.
Cheap as chips as we say in England...

View attachment 1759146

He was hoping to do it low buck, without buying pistons, just a thought,
cause he has a crank. Unfortunately, that ain't happenin.
I agree, if someone wants to do this, a kit as complete as possible, is the way to go.

 

[polyjohn]

The turned down 440 crankshaft was for a 451 in a 400 block.
It was Koffel's favourite engine with 452 iron heads highly ported.

They ran mid tens all day long in the 90's, but now the S/B guys are getting those times with 318 blocks!
It just goes to show how limiting the 440 iron head was and still is.

You always need pistons with any rebuild and then you need a rebalance.
Do you trust 50 year old rods?

Why spend out on a dubious stroker compilation when you can buy NEW!?
If you are building a street/strip engine then its a no brainer...

 

[polyjohn]

Talking of strokers, this is well Hardcore stuff indeed!
The Hinkles 426ci Poly engine...

600hp and a hemi beater out of a Poly engine.
We built the UK's only 402ci Poly stroker for our 66 Coronet 4-speed.

So if you are going to build exotic strokers them ''make it worthwhile doing'' we always say.
God bless America and the humble V8 engine, we all love...

 

[PRHeads]

IMO, the best, most cost effective use of a 440 crank……..is to put it in a 440 block.
Paired with pistons and rods commensurate with the rest of the build, of course.

 

[33 IMP]

Kerns crank was already done, otherwise.......
I wouldn't bother with turning a 440 crank for a b-block. It doesn't get many inches, compared to the effort.
If I was stroking a 383, the most complete possible kit for a 489/496 is what I would do.

 

[Kern Dog]

This was a FREE crank and bearing set. I had this thought that IF it could be done on the cheap for just the cost of bearings and gaskets, I'd really be tempted to move forward with it. Previously, I hadn't cared enough to learn all the specifics about these old fashioned combinations. I read about offset grinding and other stuff but didn't know all of what was involved. For the Jigsaw Charger, I am trying to keep it on about a 3/4 scale of the red car...

Smaller engine, softer suspension, smaller wheels and tires, better mileage and a bit less rowdy. I already have a 440/495 in the red car. I've had a few different ideas on what to power Jigsaw with including the original 383 that is in it, a roller 360, a stroked roller 360 and a 5.7 Hemi.

 

[PRHeads]

If you’re considering using the reworked crank, then I’d have a shop that does crank grinding give it a look over and verify it’s in usable condition.

If it is, then you can use it to build a 432 with a 383 block, or a 451 with a 400 block.

 

[Kern Dog]

I was told that it fit all Mopar blocks from a 318 to a 426 Hemi.

 

[dvw]

I'm not much of a believer in the rod/stroke ratio deal. Get the stroke you want. Find a light piston that will fit a ring pack, pin in a decent location. Use a rod that puts that zero deck. The R/S ratio is what it is. If you can fit a longer rod? Great now the piston is lighter. But no sense compromising the pin and ring pack location to do it.
Doug

 

[1KoolBee]

Its like the 80's and 90's all over again.
Hybrid stroker Mopar engines with Chevy and Ford parts!

Just buy a balanced kit from 440 Source and throw it in your block, its dead simples...

Yep we all have a 440 turned down crank and stuff waiting for a custom build.
But a 512ci kit from Brandon and its off too the races in a heartbeat.

My Moparmate has got a 512ci in his grocery getter Polara too.
Cheap as chips as we say in England...

View attachment 1759146

View attachment 1759147

View attachment 1759148

Yet my 3.91 stroker crank from 440 source has Chevy rod journals, and I’m using K-1 6.7” Chevy rods designed for a ford because they are not offset on the axis of the beam like a “normal” Chevy rod. And none of it is “cheap” by any means! For what KD has on hand, 6.76 BBM rods and diamond 51950 pistons would be lowest cost, but for the cost of turning the rod journals down, 3.91 stroke is doable as aftermarket rods are pretty much a necessity either way AND 6.76 or 6.700 are essentially same cost.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

We have built a pretty good variety of the big blocks..383,400,440,451,512, 526, 542. If you have the crank and rods all your short is pistons and a balancing. Sounds like a fun project to me! I have NEVER EVER regretted stroking a engine of any brand. They should have had more cubic inches from day one!

 

[Kern Dog]

For me, I wonder if the 44 extra cubic inches is worth the cost of pistons, rings, balancing and gaskets.
This 383 has so few miles on it as it is.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

For me, I wonder if the 44 extra cubic inches is worth the cost of pistons, rings, balancing and gaskets.
This 383 has so few miles on it as it is.

Unfortunately, its a 383 with limited piston options. All the options are on the costly side.
Maybe you should go a different direction..

What is the ring end gap?
We have a 383 in our 67 valiant. It has a nice substitute for cubic inches..a 200hp kit

 

[Kern Dog]

I rebuilt the engine in 2020. The rings were filed to the gap that was listed by the manufacturer, I don't recall offhand what that was.

 

[PRHeads]

I doubt it would be too hard to sell a fairly fresh, decent running 383.
Then apply that $$$ to something bigger.

However, I wouldn’t bother going through the trouble unless I was planning to up the displacement into the 500” range..

 

[ckessel]

Greg or anyone else that has toasted cranks around, here is a cool BBQ using various car parts.

 

[Lefty71]

Watch your toes if that one falls over lol.
I love the rods used as a "thermostat"

 

[Steve1974]

I recently took in a load of parts including a couple of 383 engines and a 440 crankshaft that was supposedly cut down to fit a 383 block.
I'm not 100% clear on how this works. Are the main journal sizes different between the B and the RB series engines?
The longer stroke 440 crank is obviously used to add significant cubic inches due to the added stroke but which length rods are usually used?
I have a set of 440 rods and two sets of 383 rods. I'm guessing that the 440 rods are what people use.
Pistons are another question. They'd be the bore size of the cylinders but are the pin heights different?
I have a rebuilt 383 in a car with maybe 200 miles on the rebuild. It runs great but isn't all that fast.
It is probably a silly question but can a 440 crank actually be swapped into this 383 block without changing pistons?

you need a piston with a 1.345 compression height, I used a 496 chevy piston in the last one standard 4.250 bore 3.750 stroke 6.76 rod . .7854x 4.250x 4.250x 3.75x8 gives you the cubic inch 425.58 - 426 cubic inches . the 498 chevy piston is 1.345 on the nose it gave me .027 clearance wish I had your 440 crank cut down ive got a nos 440 crank that has an iron cross on it i got fron a dodge dealer that passed away and his wife wanted the shop clean so i got it brand new in the box Dodge sent it in !