wide body 71 roadrunner

[Sweet5ltr]

Sweet. Thanks for the reply. I have seen your posts and respect your thoughts.
You are right. I do not have a clear vision with this car.

Let me update the build engine wise. Going with a 540 lower compression for pump gas. I don't have a specific turbo picked out, single or twins. Planning on efi with a high end boost management system.

I don't see myself taking this car in a strictly drag stop direction. I like the idea of a more autocross set up.
I would love to hear thoughts on how best to proceed
Currently in hold mode while the engine is being built.
I was measuring today while working on the 4 link and have tons of room so I may not even widen the car
Lots of balls in the air
Thanks
Zach

Hey Zach, I love the idea of what you're trying to achieve, and I honestly wish we could build a car to practically do everything well.

That 540 stroker is going to be insane, like I said, you'll probably need that electronic boost management controller in order to limit boost per gear; but it looks like you've already been researching that.
Your best bet is to pick up Corky Bells Maximum Boost if you haven't already, it's practically the bible of turbocharging (can be found free online with a quick google search).

Most cars that 'carve corners' utilize a dry sump system, is your builder recommending this? What kind of pads on your Wilwood setup?

I went with the Hotchkis kit that retains and excels with the factory torsion bar suspension, rather than basically, re-engineering the cars suspension geometry. In your case it works out as I'm not sure of many companies that provide track-proven kits for the later b-bodies.

What kind of wheels are you looking at currently? Like I said, you probably could easily get away with 275's on the front (I've heard it's possible with the right offset/backspacing, even on a/e-bodies), although, my 255's are a few mm's away from rubbing the inner fender/frame on full lock with my current wheel selection. 18x12's w/ 355's are fairly heavy, do you want to add that much additional unsprung weight? You're going to smoke anything regardless with your 540 unless it's a non-DOT approved drag slick. I would REALLY look into 305's to keep the cost relatively reasonable, possibly some Nitto NT05R's for the rear. You're looking at around $1,500 w/ tires-wheels-mounted-balanced-shipped if you go that route. On the other hand, 355's are available at around $400 ea, but I can't find any with a decent sidewall. If you really want that 'wide track', I would definitely only go 325/45r18, something like this possibly on the rear;
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...88969&ef_id=V@HjsAAABQP28uAE:20161010015445:s

 

[Bone]

Hey Zach, I love the idea of what you're trying to achieve, and I honestly wish we could build a car to practically do everything well.

That 540 stroker is going to be insane, like I said, you'll probably need that electronic boost management controller in order to limit boost per gear; but it looks like you've already been researching that.
Your best bet is to pick up Corky Bells Maximum Boost if you haven't already, it's practically the bible of turbocharging (can be found free online with a quick google search).

Most cars that 'carve corners' utilize a dry sump system, is your builder recommending this? What kind of pads on your Wilwood setup?

I went with the Hotchkis kit that retains and excels with the factory torsion bar suspension, rather than basically, re-engineering the cars suspension geometry. In your case it works out as I'm not sure of many companies that provide track-proven kits for the later b-bodies.

What kind of wheels are you looking at currently? Like I said, you probably could easily get away with 275's on the front (I've heard it's possible with the right offset/backspacing, even on a/e-bodies), although, my 255's are a few mm's away from rubbing the inner fender/frame on full lock with my current wheel selection. 18x12's w/ 355's are fairly heavy, do you want to add that much additional unsprung weight? You're going to smoke anything regardless with your 540 unless it's a non-DOT approved drag slick. I would REALLY look into 305's to keep the cost relatively reasonable, possibly some Nitto NT05R's for the rear. You're looking at around $1,500 w/ tires-wheels-mounted-balanced-shipped if you go that route. On the other hand, 355's are available at around $400 ea, but I can't find any with a decent sidewall. If you really want that 'wide track', I would definitely only go 325/45r18, something like this possibly on the rear;
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...88969&ef_id=V@HjsAAABQP28uAE:20161010015445:s

Looking at forgeline competion wheels

Hey Zach, I love the idea of what you're trying to achieve, and I honestly wish we could build a car to practically do everything well.

That 540 stroker is going to be insane, like I said, you'll probably need that electronic boost management controller in order to limit boost per gear; but it looks like you've already been researching that.
Your best bet is to pick up Corky Bells Maximum Boost if you haven't already, it's practically the bible of turbocharging (can be found free online with a quick google search).

Most cars that 'carve corners' utilize a dry sump system, is your builder recommending this? What kind of pads on your Wilwood setup?

I went with the Hotchkis kit that retains and excels with the factory torsion bar suspension, rather than basically, re-engineering the cars suspension geometry. In your case it works out as I'm not sure of many companies that provide track-proven kits for the later b-bodies.

What kind of wheels are you looking at currently? Like I said, you probably could easily get away with 275's on the front (I've heard it's possible with the right offset/backspacing, even on a/e-bodies), although, my 255's are a few mm's away from rubbing the inner fender/frame on full lock with my current wheel selection. 18x12's w/ 355's are fairly heavy, do you want to add that much additional unsprung weight? You're going to smoke anything regardless with your 540 unless it's a non-DOT approved drag slick. I would REALLY look into 305's to keep the cost relatively reasonable, possibly some Nitto NT05R's for the rear. You're looking at around $1,500 w/ tires-wheels-mounted-balanced-shipped if you go that route. On the other hand, 355's are available at around $400 ea, but I can't find any with a decent sidewall. If you really want that 'wide track', I would definitely only go 325/45r18, something like this possibly on the rear;
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...88969&ef_id=V@HjsAAABQP28uAE:20161010015445:s

Got that book. Great resource.
Will probably do a none mopar transmission just so I can use a transmission cpu
We are going with the dry sump
Don't have the pads yet. Need to learn more in that arena
Front is alterkation wanted the increase clearance for piping. Yada yada yada
Still think a single turbo might be best just to reduce complexity

Looking at forge line wheels need 18 at least
http://www.forgeline.com/products/competition-series/ge1r.html

I agree with the 275 on the front.
Bigger rims equals less side wall for launching but better handling.
Your spot on with the price
Pirelli makes a 355/30/19. Poor sidewall as stated

Everything is a trade off

How do you like the hotchkis system? Is it the TVS?
Looking at it for my 67 coronet