Will epoxy primer work over acrylic latex?

[velrob]

I plan on using some sound/thermal paint in few areas.

Will acrylic latex paint work with epoxy primer?

I will be specifically using this stuff:

http://www.hytechsales.com/prodsc.html

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I'm a little confused, but acrylic latex paint will stick on top of epoxy primer, but epoxy primer will not still (very well) on top of acrylic latex paint. Looking at what is said about the sound deadening coating, it should work really well for you. It will be a little "rubbery" even after it's dried. Make SURE to let your epoxy primer "cure" for at least 24 hrs. (& above 55F temperature) before putting on the sound deadener.

 

[velrob]

I was planning to epoxy then apply SC1000 then apply epoxy again because the SC1000 is white

 

[eldubb440]

epoxy will stick to almost anything, so I would say yes, but if the stuff stays soft it will be a weak link.......did you already buy the stuff? why do you want to paint it? check out the lizard skin thread, sounds very similar


http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/lizard-skin.129875/#post-910663578

 

[velrob]

Lizard Skin is more expensive and seems you need to buy two coatings for Thermal/Sound dampening.

Seems SC1000 does both but not sure what extreme on the thermal side. I will be putting some sort of insulation on top of all my coatings of course for extra thermal.

Two gallons of Lizard is $165. Two gallons of SC1000 is $120. 2 Gallon of Lizard covers 40-45 sq ft while SC1000 covers 75-100 Sq ft.

Plus Lizard Skin is similar to SC1000 it has a similar additive. I saw that exact thread I was researching quite a bit before deciding.

I plan to spray the floor/roof/trunk. Just worried about lifting of the epoxy on top of the Latex or if the Latex wont stick to the epoxy.

 

[velrob]

Wow they finally replied to me Hytech.

I need to ask the manufacturer of the epoxy if it will accept water based or they said use a primer over the epoxy to be safe which I may do instead of epoxying over the SC1000 again to hide the white.

 

[eldubb440]

I always say.... "epoxy sticks to everything, and everything sticks to epoxy"


I always use a film of reduced epoxy as a sealer / adhesion promoter if needed........

I would let that stuff dry out for a couple days before topcoating

 

[eldubb440]

they said use a primer over the epoxy to be safe

epoxy primer IS primer........ often times a guy on the phone has no actual experience

 

[velrob]

sorry i mean their primer, they have a primer that I can use over the epoxy then apply SC1000

 

[747mopar]

I agree with eldubb440, Apply it over the epoxy but epoxy over the coating isn't such a good idea. The epoxy will likely crack when applied over the soft coating. Ask them if they can tint it for you? If it were me and it didn't require a top coat I'd spray on the coating and forget it.

 

[eldubb440]

the ceramic lizard skin (white insulation) did eventually get pretty hard, it took about a week..... the sound control was hard as a rock after a day or 2........ I would paint the ceramic if I had to, but the sound control seems to be much more paint friendly

 

[NJRR]

It depends on the type of epoxy primer you are using. If it is an acrylic epoxy then you shouldn't have any problems. However, if it is a solvent based epoxy, the solvents can "melt" the acrylic paint underneath it and cause it to peel, crack, etc. What epoxy primer are you planning on using? So, you can put the acrylic over the cured solvent based epoxy primer but not vice versa.

 

[MarPar]

did eventually get pretty hard, it took about a week.....

they have little blue pills for that

 

[eldubb440]

the reducer is the solvent.......over-reducing, slow drying reducer, and applying it too wet will always lead to problems.........most "solvent based" epoxies do not even require reduction unless it is being used as a sealer/adhesion promoter

 

[eldubb440]

they have little blue pills for that

whatever it takes

 

[eldubb440]

buying their recommended primer is also an added expense, when all is said and done how much cheaper is it really?

lizard skin is also available in 1 gallon buckets....... 2 gallons of each product was almost too much, especially the ceramic....... I put an extra coat or 2 almost everywhere and have enough of both left over for doors....... my doors will get a nice shot also

not pushing the lizard skin......... wasn't even my idea, and it is a bit pricey.......... but it did work out well

 

[velrob]

One gallon you were able to do the roof floors and trunk?

 

[eldubb440]

One gallon you were able to do the roof floors and trunk?

my bad.....

I had Two 2 gallon pails of the sound control and did everything twice including the inside of the roof, firewall all the way up to the windshield pinch weld, inside the hinge pillar / kick panel area, all floors, trans tunnel, both sides of the package tray and diagonal braces, inside the quarter panels (all the way to the door jamb and up under the trunk gutter), front and rear of the rear wheel houses, trunk floor, and inside the holes of the inner sail panel....... I have 1/2 a pail ( about 1 gallon) left over to do at least 4 doors.........

from a 2 gallon pail of the ceramic insulation, I did firewall, trans tunnel and floors twice with at least 3 coats on the highest heat areas over the trans and headers........ 2 passes on the ceiling...... I have a second 2 gallon pail that I didn't open

lizard skin recommends 2 coats of each so I probably went a little overboard

also....... I used a coat of epoxy primer underneath to insure adhesion, but painted basecoat directly over the sound control in the trunk after a few days. I had enough confidence it would hold paint based on its appearance and texture, I suppose a coat of epoxy would have been good insurance..... seems to be stuck, looks great, and I do not foresee any issues

like I said, not pushing the stuff...... but as long as I was doing it I wanted to share the experience with the board.......If I were supplied with the product you mentioned, I would have used it and found a way to make it work for my application. It may very well be an awesome alternative.

 

[velrob]

thanks alot for the info

 

[MarPar]

my bad.....

I had Two 2 gallon pails of the sound control and did everything twice including the inside of the roof, firewall all the way up to the windshield pinch weld, inside the hinge pillar / kick panel area, all floors, trans tunnel, both sides of the package tray and diagonal braces, inside the quarter panels (all the way to the door jamb and up under the trunk gutter), front and rear of the rear wheel houses, trunk floor, and inside the holes of the inner sail panel....... I have 1/2 a pail ( about 1 gallon) left over to do at least 4 doors.........

from a 2 gallon pail of the ceramic insulation, I did firewall, trans tunnel and floors twice with at least 3 coats on the highest heat areas over the trans and headers........ 2 passes on the ceiling...... I have a second 2 gallon pail that I didn't open

lizard skin recommends 2 coats of each so I probably went a little overboard

also....... I used a coat of epoxy primer underneath to insure adhesion, but painted basecoat directly over the sound control in the trunk after a few days. I had enough confidence it would hold paint based on its appearance and texture, I suppose a coat of epoxy would have been good insurance..... seems to be stuck, looks great, and I do not foresee any issues

like I said, not pushing the stuff...... but as long as I was doing it I wanted to share the experience with the board.......If I were supplied with the product you mentioned, I would have used it and found a way to make it work for my application. It may very well be an awesome alternative.

jesus man, nothing exceeds like excess...

while im over here putting a meager layer of fatmat in my Newport. lol