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Will not start warm

CtownChris

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OK 383 lumpy cam, runs great but will not start when warmed up.

Had 440 distributor in it until the Nats. Swapped is out for a reman 383 dizzy.
Start cold no problem but after warmed up even and hour or two later just cranks.
Swapped coils, orange box, ballast resistor. Fresh battery.

Could the reman dizzy be bad. Thinkin of a Mopar performance dizzy but tired of swappin parts. It's OK if you have a friend with spare parts but I don't want to spend $165 if thats not the problem.

My buddy who BTW won his Max Wedge class at the Nats 2 or 3 yrs ago is my mechanic on this.

Should I get my old 440 dizzy with spacer and run it again?

What else should I be lookin at. :confused:
 
Well when this issue first happened we got no or weak yellow spark.
Thats when we swapped coils, ballast resistor, with no change.
Loosened the dizzy and turned it while crankin and fired up.

Next week still same thing.
Fired right up cold. Weak spark when warmed up.
Battery was getting old so new one dropped it. Still prorated on the old one.
Swapped coil, ballast resistor, and silver for orange box again.
Still no start after hookin everything back.

Loosen the dizzy and turn while crankin and fired up.
Timed it but could not get 0 read.
Still fires right up cold.
Just not warmed up
Now this was not a problem with the old 440 dizzy with adapter.
 
sounds to me like the reluctor has no gap while warm, have you set the pickup gap? it should be .008 while cold, you will need a brass feeler gauge to set this.
 
69runner suggested checking the coil wire - it might be crapping out when hot.
 
The old cap was swapped also. The center coil connection on the cap had arching burns.

I bet Tem is right. New coil wire ASAP.

Now if only the Mafia and Tem could make a truce.
 
Check the 5 or 4 wire connector going to the ecu. I had sort of the same problem and found I had a couple of bad wires in the plug. I replaced the connector and all is well. Check voltages at each wire. I would check all voltage at every thing to do with the ignition, That is how I found the problem. Good luck, Hope you find it soon.
 
I'm curious...383 distr. shaft is shorter than the 440...did you swap out the shafts or ???
 
Just a thought, Has something similar to this a while back and found that the fuel line was vapor locking on me especially with headers after setting from driving...
my 2 cents...:grin:
 
vapor lock is a real possibility. The question is what kind of fuel pump are you running, Mech. or electric. Wrap the fuel lines with a fuel line insulation type material and get a spacer (2" ) to keep carb off the heat.
 
you probably needa go to a hotter ignition. ignition systems will do that when they get hot. check your spark when it is cold. then check it when it has ran for 20 30 min. if it weaker you got ignition problems. big cams will mess up valve timing and timing also.maybe your bowl is over flooding and flooding it out.
 
Adressed the vapor lock ? last year. New gas tank, sending unit, reroute all fuel lines away from heat. Holly Blue electric pump, fuel regulator on fender well, only fuel line in engine bay is from regulator to carb, new Eldelbrock carb too.

Went from orange to silver box ignition already.
Just swapped a coil to distributor wire with no help.

Hard to check everything carefully when your working solo.

I have a new multi spark Summit ignition box sitting in my bedroom.
Ordered a Mopar Performance distributor last night to replace the rebuilt one from Advanced. Still suspect bad reman dizzy.
 
I think your right Chris, The new distr. should resolve the issue. Keep us posted!!
 
Hey thanks for the input and encouragement.
I swear if the cars worked well every time I would not be happy,

Anyway someone stopped by and took pictures of my car in the driveway today. She told my wife her husband talks about my car all the time.
Don't know who he is by I guess I'm famous (at least to a few guys in the neighborhood). Well my car is famous anyway.
 
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