will not start when hot...

[68suprB]

I had a similar issue w my '68 super bee. Wouldn't start when it was hot and the fuel could actually be heard running back into the tank when I shut it off, draining the fuel filter. Turned out the genius that had the car before me half a$$ed the trunk floor repair, pinching the fuel tank vent tube that went into the trunk and never replaced the short vent tube that goes onto the shock cross member. With the stock non vented cap, the motor was sucking fuel and creating a vacuum in the tank. When the motor was shut off, no suction, so the fuel was being pulled back into the tank. Just something to check.

 

[451Mopar]

If it tries to start when you release the key from cranking, it is an ignition issue, and I'd guess the car has the stock type electronic ignition.

 

[69redrunner]

I went thru the vent lines last year and found a pinched rubber hose. I guess it's worth a second look.

QUOTE=68suprB;910109588]I had a similar issue w my '68 super bee. Wouldn't start when it

was hot and the fuel could actually be heard running back into the tank when I shut it off,
draining the fuel filter. Turned out the genius that had the car before me half a$$ed the trunk floor repair, pinching the fuel tank vent tube that went into the trunk and never replaced the short vent tube that goes onto the shock cross member. With the stock non vented cap, the motor was sucking fuel and creating a vacuum in the tank. When the motor was shut off, no suction, so the fuel was being pulled back into the tank. Just something to check.[/QUOTE]

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If it tries to start when you release the key from cranking, it is an ignition issue, and I'd guess the car has the stock type electronic ignition.

Yes, stock early Chrysler electronic ignition. I replaced cap, rotor, coil, and plugs last week just as a precaution.

 

[451Mopar]

It could be a ground loop issue with the electronic ignition caused by bad battery cables and grounds.
The Stock type electronic ignitions seem sensitive to this because the electronic box is grounded to the firewall, and the distributor is grounded to the engine block.
Also, a battery cable with a bad connection can cause the "ground" voltage lever to raise when high current is flowing while cranking the starter.

 

[sleepar]

The back fire made me think bad coil when it gets hot.... My car has no vent tube and when I put a non vent cap on it and run it... it pulls a hard vacuum but doesn't bleed down.... the bleed down made me think the fuel pump was bad...

 

[petieg383]

I have a 70 RR with a 440 and a Weiand 8009 intake, Edelbrock 1411 carb and an Air Grabber Hood with the bit air cleaner. I was having a similar hard start problem. I put in an Edelbrock 3/8" heat spacer. Seems to have helped with the hard start, but it does push up the air grabber hood just a hair. It's too tight.

 

[69redrunner]

Over the weekend I replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, coil, and fuel pump. I also put heat shield sleeve on the fuel line. Replaced the valley pan with the crossover blocked and put an aluminum intake on. Haven't fired it yet. Next issue is going to be hood clearance. Will have to go with a 440 air grabber base or a lift off hood if the 440 base is still to tall.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Look for drop bases, they drop down around the carb and K&N makes a 2" filter usually a 14" set up. you could also go with the low profile dual set up like a old rod style two tubes to filters on the ends etc.

 

[69hemibeep]

After reading threads by others, I figured I would try the phenolic spacer route. Just finished the install, took her out for a nice warm up test drive...park her in the garage and let her sit for 10-15 minutes. ...no start. Cranks and cranks but will not fire. Backfires thru the carb occasionally. Pump the pedal, hold it to the floor, makes no difference. Will not start. Let it sit for an hour or so and it starts right up.
I'm open for suggestions. ...

I was helping a friend out with the same symptoms and it turned out his ballast was allowing to much voltage to the coil and would work fine until warmed up and parked for a short period, he replaced the coil and ballast problem solved. Something else to look at.

 

[69redrunner]

Look for drop bases, they drop down around the carb and K&N makes a 2" filter usually a 14" set up. you could also go with the low profile dual set up like a old rod style two tubes to filters on the ends etc.

I'm trying to keep the air grabber functional if at all possible.