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Will this 8.75 rear work?

Here's a chart:

Mopar rear axle dimsensions.jpg
 
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I will go measure the rear end and see what it actually is. Maybe just has the 742 center but still the original housing..

Center to center on the spring perches 44 inches. Back of axle flange to back of axle flange is about 54. They still have the brake assemblies on so its hard to get the measurement from end to end on the flanges. What I did was measure back of flange to center of the pumpkin both ways I got 27 inches.
 
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The u-joint could be a 7260 or a 7290. It is not a 1330, no tabs to hold u-joints in place.
 
I've found them to be anywhere from 3/8" to 3/4" shorter....with the 3/4" being the only one. Most were around what you mentioned to 1/2" shorter. Seems ChryCo didn't have a very tight tolerance with this stuff. Even the 68-70 rears varied a little from what's listed in the charts.

If you think about it, the tolerance couldn't be very far off or the end play adjusters couldn't compensate.
 
If you think about it, the tolerance couldn't be very far off or the end play adjusters couldn't compensate.
Have found axles that varied too! It's nuts. Keep in mind that most of the cars that I parted out were parted in the 70's so they weren't that old. On the other hand, most of the cars that I parted out in more recent times still had their original rear ends in them and the last one one was a 67 Coronet with NO rust outs anywhere! The down side to that one was a lot of the under hood pieces were gone and the interior was sun dried to the max (plus it was a 4 door) or I would have brought it back and used it as a daily driver. That car was parted out around 2000....and I think I still have the housing and the axles.
 
Use only genuine Factory or Dana Spicer U Joints
they are the only Deep Case Hardened ones -TRW's are long gone
others are induction hardened crap and will Brinell like axles with no wheel bearing cup
 
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