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wtb kickdown linkage proper rod

BeepBeepRR

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I believe I have the main rod from a small block it doesn't sit like it should. In the manual it shows the carb sitting all the way back into the slot. Mine isn't long enough for that.

Here is a video to explain what I'm talking about.. And maybe some one has the proper rod. When I made the video i didnt have the manual. So I assumed the center point of the slot would be good enough, I was wrong. Either way the rod is too short.

 
I am in the process of putting a Lokar kit on my car. I will have a BB rod from a 73 Charger if that is what you are looking for. The one in the picture above is the 3-piece one I think with the bell crank. The one that came on my car is a one piece. See pictures.

3 Piece Rod.JPG 1 Piece Rod.JPG
 
Yup it looks way to short. On mine the stud on the carb touches the back of the slot. Can you take a measurement of the rod. I might have one.
 
Also do you have the linkage adaptor for that Eddy carb. That would put the stud further back also. PM me and I can send a pic to your phone of mine.
 
look at the pic at the top bellcrank yours is laid back in the video, can you pull it forward? if not you can adjust down rod #2 that will shorten your upper link.
Your spring needs to be in the end of the rod where your cotter pin is.

383-12.jpg
 
Wow thanks guys lots of good info. I thought about a rod coupling but finding a 5/16 would be a task I think. I will check out that back adjustment to see if I can gain some length. I have some work to do under the hood. I think I have the rod spring in a box. I can check the length Its not on the car at the moment. Pretty sure its for a small block. Getting an error trying to PM you Wagonman.. Its a forum issue.
 
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Worst comes to worst buy a female-female coupling, put a threaded bolt/screw in one end and cut to length. i.e.-a female-male coupling.
 
Just checked my spare, from the end of the thread to the bend with hole is 8 1/2 inches. The female threaded adjuster is 4 1/2. hope this helps. Like Brian said the intermediate rod has some adj also.
 
What I just described is what I'm going to do on the vertical adjustable rod; it's 1/4" fine thread for ur info(that rod only). Mine used to have manual valve body so it wasn't needed. Then I went from 383 to 440 and it will probably make a difference.My linkage is all oem 383.
 
The important thing is to have the spring on there, and adj it so that when the throttle is wide open, then your kickdown linkage is pushed back almost all the way. That is adjusted at the threaded part of the carb linkage. That will make your trans downshift for passing, just by flooring it. You may still need a longer rod. Without the small spring on there, it will tend to rest somewhere in the middle of the slot.
 
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