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Hot running 440 60" over

Yes....I understand....but....WHY???.....what causes the heat gain???? greater parasitic losses?....circulated coolant volume low? Just curious......
BOB RENTON

Higher compression + more combustion (cubic inches )+ more fuel/air = more power. More power = more heat, yet the cooling capacity of the block via oil and water circulation remains the same (unless somehow upgraded).
 
Higher compression + more combustion (cubic inches )+ more fuel/air = more power. More power = more heat, yet the cooling capacity of the block via oil and water circulation remains the same (unless somehow upgraded).
The cooling system is designed to handle the WASTE HEAT of the process.....the other factors enter in the production of energy conversion OR HORSE POWER to do work.....
BOB RENTON
 
Post #43. Higher compression on it's own reduces heat. The a/f mixture takes longer to burn with low compression engines, so the surrounding metal absorbs more heat during the combustion process.
 
Post #43. Higher compression on it's own reduces heat. The a/f mixture takes longer to burn with low compression engines, so the surrounding metal absorbs more heat during the combustion process.

Maybe, but that was not the point. Just saying... overall, more power = more heat. If the cooling system remains the same under the circumstances of added power it has to but to the task of eliminating that additional heat, and if it is so, more heat will be released via that system.
 
Nope.
If I turn the dist to retard the ign timing, the engine runs hotter. Same engine, same cooling system. Engine is now inefficient, same as when you lower the comp ratio.
 
I dunno what all happened in this post, but I’ve run the edelbrock pump on two engines and they worked really well. Plan to use on a third soon.

The Mr gasket stat could be an issue. I’ve seen many reviews stating they were junk. Find an old high flow robertshaw. I understand Flowkooler makes them these days, unsure the quality.
 
Nope.
If I turn the dist to retard the ign timing, the engine runs hotter. Same engine, same cooling system. Engine is now inefficient, same as when you lower the comp ratio.

Retarded timing causes fuel to burn for a shorter period.... less burn (power) for the same amount of fuel = less efficeint. Unless, of course, you had it too far advanced and are retarding the timing to where is is supposed to be.

... and now, back to the OP telling us what did and did not resolve his overheating problem?
 
Discard the Mr. Gasket thermostat, they are very unreliable. I had one and gave it to my buddy to help him in a pinch, going down the road it stuck and blew a hose off and sent his 69 charger into the ditch.. No more Mr Gasket China made crap ever again! No BS on this either!
 
When did it start running hot? What changed to cause the hot issue? Timing and air fuel ratio need to be verified 1st.
IMO your fans look good,how much CFM are the pair?
I used the aluminum water pump housing & water pump, smaller 6 cylinder water pump pulley, smaller turns faster than a larger diameter,I have no room for a factory set up.Went with a triple pass aluminum $300 afco radiator and a 2400 cfm Spall fan for $100. and it runs 180* in traffic or highway speed.

Must check timing & A/F first!

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