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2016. 4 years ago.

$300 four years ago. They are hard to find let alone at that price. Was on Craigs List.

Hey John, I think if you could get your PSI to 6 - 7lbs your post shut down flooding may stop. With multi-carb street set ups volume under load is more important than pressure. A good high volume mechanical pump with a 3/8"fuel line should feed your 2 Carters fine. Just my opinion.

Running a Clay Smith Mechanical on my 440 XRam with (2) 750cfm Eddys, 3/8"lines, no external regulator, 7psi and it works great. No fuel starvation at 6200rpm. No vapor lock. Keep things simple.

Do not put those 3/4"plugs in a big block. They are for a small block appl. In Champion numbers you want a shorter "J" number plug for big blocks. The 3/4"plugs are an "N" number. I run J14Y Champion plugs in my 68 440. What heat range you run can vary depending on the engine build. If stock...

If you have drum brakes on any axle you have to have a residual check valve in the MC port or an external aftermarket one in the line just outside the port or you will have a lazy/low pedal. The drum type wheel cyls do not have check valves internally or do they compensate as they have to have a...

Your front MC port(farthermost from the firewall) feeds the rear drum brakes and needs the residual check valve in it, not the rear port that feeds the front disc brakes. You will have a very low pedal with it in the rear MC port.

You could order them with radio and heaters. All were not post cars either. You could order the MW package on any one of the BBody Plymouth or Dodge models.

Correct R413, 3447s were used on 62 413MWs and 63 Stage 2 426s. (There was no Stage 1 designation used). 64 426 MWs were all Stage 3s using 3705s. This Dodge does have many of the MW parts and arrangements specific to the originals. Would need to check the VIN# with Darrell Davis or his 63 Dodge...

It will still be there in the dirt until it rots away. Another "I'm going to restore that car". Sad.

Spray it liberally inside with carb cleaner and let it soak upside down 15 minutes. Then flush it with brake clean and dry with compressed air. I've done several old ones that way and never had the fiber come out. Wire wheel the outside and paint the outside gloss black and your done.

Put a couple mouse sticky pads on the floor in the corners or open areas out of the way. You will find out what crawling around and catch most of it.

The factory did do a hack job when cutting out for the shifter hump on these B bodies. Literally looks like a 5 year old did it. Standard practice on 62-65 B bodies with manual floor shifter.

Going from a 1" bore to a 15/16" bore your pedal travel will increase by about 1" but will take a little less effort with non-power brakes.

I use Torco with 93 octane 10% Ethanol pump gas. (12oz to 5 gallons). does what I need.

We use to unplug the dam thing on Sunday mornings when we were all hung over.

I remember the Pump bunnies there. Got gas there several times.

Rotella and all other 15w-40 diesel motor oils had about 1300 ppm zink until the last oil re rating in 2011 due to diesel exhaust catalysts being used for the latest federal emission standard going into effect on diesel engines. It now has about 7-800 PPM. To low for flat tappet lifters. I know...

Any time John. Darrell Davis did a lot of research to compile the info in his series of MW books. I was lucky to get a 62 Plymouth copy. Has all the VIN#s listed with other info. I also talked to Darrell several times when researching these cars. Hopefully you, Ronald, and i can hook up sometime...

Your VIN# is not a 413 Super Stock (Max Wedge) factory built car according to Darrell Davis's 1962 Guide Book. The S/N in your VIN is an earlier year build than the lowest 3421 Sport Fury VIN. 3421163541 is the earliest Sport Fury listed as a 413 MW. All factory 413 MW 1962s were built at Lynch...