1.5in fan clutch to radiator spacing, too far?

[zombezoo]

Did a 440 swap on my 73 satellite.
Have factory big block k frame with proper spool mounts
78 motorhome 440
Factory 78 motorhome pump (bigger pump blades when compared to gates replacement so I left it)
7 blade fan on unknown clutch, might be factory motorhome unit.
Mopar factory shroud. Had to drill new mount holes to fit my 3673054 radiator but it fits tight to fan, less than 1/2 space to blade

Face of clutch is 1.5in from radiator.

Engine will heat up to the top of the temp range at idle. Doesn't seem like clutch is slipping less as the temps heat up. Not sure if it's a bad clutch or I'm too far away from the radiator before I try to replace it. Perhaps I need a 1/2 in spacer?

 

[RJRENTON]

Did a 440 swap on my 73 satellite.
Have factory big block k frame with proper spool mounts
78 motorhome 440
Factory 78 motorhome pump (bigger pump blades when compared to gates replacement so I left it)
7 blade fan on unknown clutch, might be factory motorhome unit.
Mopar factory shroud. Had to drill new mount holes to fit my 3673054 radiator but it fits tight to fan, less than 1/2 space to blade

Face of clutch is 1.5in from radiator.

Engine will heat up to the top of the temp range at idle. Doesn't seem like clutch is slipping less as the temps heat up. Not sure if it's a bad clutch or I'm too far away from the radiator before I try to replace it. Perhaps I need a 1/2 in spacer?

PIX PLEASE.... to get a better look at what you're describing. Is your water pump turning in the correct rotation??; likewise the fan clutch...did/does the vehicle have A/C ? radiator size?? Just asking a few specifics....
BOB RENTON

 

[zombezoo]

26in radiator, fresh recore.
Vehicle has AC, compressor not installed but condenser still in place
If I rev up the engine the fan spins faster and more air moves and temps drop so I believe pump is spinning in the correct direction.

I'm leaning towards bad fan clutch but wanted to confirm that a clutch 1.5in from the radiator is acceptable.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Fan looks right in the shroud. I vote clutch.

 

[zombezoo]

I think I'm also going to get some black foam tape and seal around the shroud to the radiator. Can't hurt.

 

[coloradodave]

https://www.classicindustries.com/s...5Fk-_KSZ7HqLG2H25O2cchYiE3JNtO4dT9t4FZMqnyOl#
Radiator support to hood seal as well. Stops air from traveling up and over radiator instead of through it. As was said, location of fan blades in shroud looks about right. Google the test for checking the operation of the fan clutch. I don't think the distance from it to the radiator makes much difference as long as it's working correctly. Blade to shroud opening location is definitely important. Also, foam sealing shroud to radiator is a good idea...

 

[zombezoo]

Will check out the hood seal. I just got the car running in the last 24 hours, no throttle cable mounting solution yet so I don't know how it behaves while driving yet, but extended idling caused temps to creep up to upper range so I wanted to address that before getting it on the road
Thanks for the tips

 

[451Mopar]

Spacing looks fine. Don't get fan too close to radiator, the motor/transmission mounts can flex under hard breaking and the engine can move forward slightly.

 

[origcharger]

Driving it may work out some air bubbles

 

[451Mopar]

Thermostat and hoses good?
I had a 440 that had a strange overheat issue. At lower speed driving it was fine, but would overheat at highway speeds, and once it overheated, the temps would not come down at any speed. It had head gasket problems letting compression into the cooling system that only showed up at the higher speeds, and then the cooling system would get air blocked.

 

[zombezoo]

Thermostat and hoses good?
I had a 440 that had a strange overheat issue. At lower speed driving it was fine, but would overheat at highway speeds, and once it overheated, the temps would not come down at any speed. It had head gasket problems letting compression into the cooling system that only showed up at the higher speeds, and then the cooling system would get air blocked.

New thermostat and hoses.

Ordered new fan clutch and foam tape for the shroud. Also ordered rubber hood seals. Will finish getting it together and get some miles on it and see if the changes work out the idle temps.

Thanks all

 

[451Mopar]

One of the inexpensive thermal heat guns, or temperature meter can help verify the tempatures at the thermostat and radiator in case the gauge reading is wrong.

 

[RJRENTON]

New thermostat and hoses.

Ordered new fan clutch and foam tape for the shroud. Also ordered rubber hood seals. Will finish getting it together and get some miles on it and see if the changes work out the idle temps.

Thanks all

Hopefully, you've ordered MOPAR OEM TYPE FAN CLUTCH thru TONY'S PARTS, or similar..either the thermal drive type or the torque drive clutch # 2806070 AND NOT the Hayden style clutch....it's a real cheese ball design.... Also consider using the Flowkooler pump assembly, whether you use AC or not...it's far superior to the OEM MOPAR pump...more gallons/min and at a higher velocity for best heat transfer characteristics AND 180° F thermostat....no 160°F B.S......just my opinion of course....
BOB RENTON

 

[steve340]

I would try another thermostat before you get to carried away.
They are easy to replace and new is not a guarantee these days.
I have had a good run with the Stant brand.

 

[451Mopar]

For testing, I bought a cheap < $30 dual channel digital K type thermometer off Amazon, and use it on the radiator inlet and outlet to see how much the temp drops through the radiator. Also useful for A/C work.

 

[RJRENTON]

For testing, I bought a cheap < $30 dual channel digital K type thermometer off Amazon, and use it on the radiator inlet and outlet to see how much the temp drops through the radiator. Also useful for A/C work.

A type K digital thermometer means what? Please include some specs or a pix. Thermometers are generally bi-metal or immersion type, A type K THERMOCOUPLE (chromel-alumel) which produce a milli-volt reading on a calibrated Temperature scale, and is not accurate at radiator temps, best range is 1200°- 2400°F range. Temperature measurements SHOULD INCLUDE: AIR INLET TEMP and AIR OUTLET TEMP (or Temperature difference) plus the VOLUME OF AIR (measured) PLUS the fluid to be cooled's inlet and outlet temperatures and volumes to determine the heat exchanger effectiveness. Supposition based on single point readings are worthless......do you do thermodynamic calculations? Just my opinion of course......
BOB RENTON

 

[zombezoo]

Hopefully, you've ordered MOPAR OEM TYPE FAN CLUTCH thru TONY'S PARTS, or similar..either the thermal drive type or the torque drive clutch # 2806070 AND NOT the Hayden style clutch....it's a real cheese ball design.... Also consider using the Flowkooler pump assembly, whether you use AC or not...it's far superior to the OEM MOPAR pump...more gallons/min and at a higher velocity for best heat transfer characteristics AND 180° F thermostat....no 160°F B.S......just my opinion of course....
BOB RENTON

The rock auto replacement which was $50. I'm not opposed to spending the money on something better, it's just hard to tell what's actually better these days. What makes the $200 2806070 unit superior in your opinion?

Btw Tony's was apparently bought by vans auto, according to the Tony's website...

 

[RJRENTON]

The rock auto replacement which was $50. I'm not opposed to spending the money on something better, it's just hard to tell what's actually better these days. What makes the $200 2806070 unit superior in your opinion?

Superior performance, balance and appearance, ease of installation.....the #2806070 torque drive clutch is made by Eaton Corp......where is the Rock auto unit made....China?......you get what you pay for......it's your $$$....spend it where you want......
BOB RENTON

 

[Kilrbee]

I'm leaning towards bad fan clutch but wanted to confirm that a clutch 1.5in from the radiator is acceptable.

It is not so much the distance there but the distance the fan is located in the shroud. The fan blades should be about half in and half out of the shroud for the correct setup.

 

[zombezoo]

It is not so much the distance there but the distance the fan is located in the shroud. The fan blades should be about half in and half out of the shroud for the correct setup.

They are, I will start with the $50 replacement unit I already purchased and see what happens. If I continue to have a problem, I will take Bobs advice and get the expensive quality unit made by Eaton.

Thanks all, will report back with updates after the weekend, I should have the remaining items worked out to get my car back on the road after the 318 -> 440 swap.