KarNut46
Well-Known Member
Bought these at a swap meet and I thought I would give them a try. I plan on getting them blasted and coated if they work out.
Is there anything out there that has a bit more clearance before I break out the BFH?
No, I can't afford TTI.
One down tube is making contact with the starter. It's going to take about a 1/2" dent to square up the header flange and give it a gap. Maybe it's the starter? (I'm liking the large opening to access the starter terminals)
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Is this too close? Will it hit under a hard load? Will it burn the paint on the inner fender?
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Looking for comments from those that have been there with their 1962 dodge or plymouth big block transplants. TIA
Those older headers (probably what you bought at swap meet) were designed to use the original MoPar starter which is shaped differently than these new permanent magnet mini starters. I had the same problem w/ my Duster. Bought a set of headers (brand unknown) and the late model MoPar mini starter wouldn't clear the header but the older style would. It doesn't sound reasonable since the older model is so much larger but the problem is where the main motor housing on the permanent magnet starters is located. Compared the two types on the bench and noticed that the body of the mini starter sits higher & further outboard than the old MoPar starter. That comparison was made using a Chrysler mini starter, yours is an aftermarket unit which may be different. But, from what I'm seeing You have the exact problem that I had w/ my Duster. Might try borrowing an older starter & see if it fits. Choice depends on how much $ you are willing to part with. Older starters worked OK, mini starters better, lighter, smaller, draw less amps. Decisions, decisions.Funny you would mention those two headers. I was researching headers this morning and they are what I narrowed it down to.
My header in the car.
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My header out of the car.
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Headman 78038 1-3/4" primarys
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Doug's 452 2" primarys
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Now I'm looking at the #1 tube and you can see where mine and the Headman both end up at the collector at the same place, crowding the starter.
The Doug's #1 tube goes to the outside of the collector, opening up the starter cavity.
The only problem I'm seeing with the Doug's, is the #7 tube runs long to the collector, blocking the shifter cable pathway. That's the way it appears to be. Without having any measurements I'm not sure if it's going to work.
You can see in this picture that the hole in the trans, for the cable, actually sits lower than the collector but there is somewhat of a pathway. Will the Headman's collector be at the same height or lower. Will the Doug's header block the cable's pathway.
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Oh the drama!