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1962 Header Help

Bought these at a swap meet and I thought I would give them a try. I plan on getting them blasted and coated if they work out.

Is there anything out there that has a bit more clearance before I break out the BFH?

No, I can't afford TTI.

One down tube is making contact with the starter. It's going to take about a 1/2" dent to square up the header flange and give it a gap. Maybe it's the starter? (I'm liking the large opening to access the starter terminals)
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Is this too close? Will it hit under a hard load? Will it burn the paint on the inner fender?
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Looking for comments from those that have been there with their 1962 dodge or plymouth big block transplants. TIA
Funny you would mention those two headers. I was researching headers this morning and they are what I narrowed it down to.

My header in the car.
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My header out of the car.
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Headman 78038 1-3/4" primarys
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Doug's 452 2" primarys
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Now I'm looking at the #1 tube and you can see where mine and the Headman both end up at the collector at the same place, crowding the starter.
The Doug's #1 tube goes to the outside of the collector, opening up the starter cavity.

The only problem I'm seeing with the Doug's, is the #7 tube runs long to the collector, blocking the shifter cable pathway. That's the way it appears to be. Without having any measurements I'm not sure if it's going to work.

You can see in this picture that the hole in the trans, for the cable, actually sits lower than the collector but there is somewhat of a pathway. Will the Headman's collector be at the same height or lower. Will the Doug's header block the cable's pathway.
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Oh the drama!:realcrazy:
Those older headers (probably what you bought at swap meet) were designed to use the original MoPar starter which is shaped differently than these new permanent magnet mini starters. I had the same problem w/ my Duster. Bought a set of headers (brand unknown) and the late model MoPar mini starter wouldn't clear the header but the older style would. It doesn't sound reasonable since the older model is so much larger but the problem is where the main motor housing on the permanent magnet starters is located. Compared the two types on the bench and noticed that the body of the mini starter sits higher & further outboard than the old MoPar starter. That comparison was made using a Chrysler mini starter, yours is an aftermarket unit which may be different. But, from what I'm seeing You have the exact problem that I had w/ my Duster. Might try borrowing an older starter & see if it fits. Choice depends on how much $ you are willing to part with. Older starters worked OK, mini starters better, lighter, smaller, draw less amps. Decisions, decisions.
 
Those older headers (probably what you bought at swap meet) were designed to use the original MoPar starter which is shaped differently than these new permanent magnet mini starters. I had the same problem w/ my Duster. Bought a set of headers (brand unknown) and the late model MoPar mini starter wouldn't clear the header but the older style would. It doesn't sound reasonable since the older model is so much larger but the problem is where the main motor housing on the permanent magnet starters is located. Compared the two types on the bench and noticed that the body of the mini starter sits higher & further outboard than the old MoPar starter. That comparison was made using a Chrysler mini starter, yours is an aftermarket unit which may be different. But, from what I'm seeing You have the exact problem that I had w/ my Duster. Might try borrowing an older starter & see if it fits. Choice depends on how much $ you are willing to part with. Older starters worked OK, mini starters better, lighter, smaller, draw less amps. Decisions, decisions.
That makes perfect sense KarNut.

I still remember my '64 Polara and I was useing the original starter. It fit without any problems but you had to install the header and the starter at the same time, if that makes any sense.

I have the factory starter but I'll wait until I get this mini that I just ordered. Should be a tad bit smaller in width than that Jegs that I have.

Good post :thumbsup:
 
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That makes perfect sense KarNut.

I still remember my '64 Polara and I was useing the original starter. It fit without and problems but you had to install the header and the starter at the same time, if that makes any sense.

I have the factory starter but I'll wait until I get this mini that I just ordered. Should be a tad bit smaller in width than that Jegs that I have.

Good post :thumbsup:
There were a few header/ starter combo installations that I recall from days past as well!... Hope that snow storm isn't hitting you too hard Kid!!
 
There were a few header/ starter combo installations that I recall from days past as well!... Hope that snow storm isn't hitting you too hard Kid!!
It's only snow, and cold, and blowing!
Screenshot_2017-03-15-11-47-28.jpg

Nothing to what you guys get, lol
 
If you use an old starter Buy 2 you'll need them. Lol
Back when I was turning wrenches for a living, I would save my customers the expense of a new starter and rebuild them. The chrysler starter was just as easy to rebuild if not easier than the Ford and GMs. My personal opinion is that they are a lot better starter also. Just a little info from an old schooler.
 
If you're making a spreadsheet to see how much you're going to spend on your car you're going to scare yourself to death . My advice is just do it a little bit at a time it might take for five years but it won't hurt so bad . And you won't have to lie to the wife. With that being said , You might stomp your feet throw tools and threaten to sell it ! But just when you are ready to throw in the towel the Fbbo members will calm you down give some advice and encouragement . You'll finish it and be proud of what you have accomplished ! Thanks you To All The FBBO Members that helped my project along ! Pat
 
If you're making a spreadsheet to see how much you're going to spend on your car you're going to scare yourself to death . My advice is just do it a little bit at a time it might take for five years but it won't hurt so bad . And you won't have to lie to the wife. With that being said , You might stomp your feet throw tools and threaten to sell it ! But just when you are ready to throw in the towel the Fbbo members will calm you down give some advice and encouragement . You'll finish it and be proud of what you have accomplished ! Thanks you To All The FBBO Members that helped my project along ! Pat

I did almost exactly that. Kept every receipt when I built my Deuce. When the car was done, (4 year build), I just sorted all the receipts into categories (engine, trans, frame, suspension, body, and interior) and added it all up. I can tell you within $5 one way or the other exactly what that car cost to build. That's why I know it cost a shade over $8000 to do a stock rebuild on an early hemi... and I did all the assembly. :(
 
If you're making a spreadsheet to see how much you're going to spend on your car you're going to scare yourself to death . My advice is just do it a little bit at a time it might take for five years but it won't hurt so bad . And you won't have to lie to the wife. With that being said , You might stomp your feet throw tools and threaten to sell it ! But just when you are ready to throw in the towel the Fbbo members will calm you down give some advice and encouragement . You'll finish it and be proud of what you have accomplished ! Thanks you To All The FBBO Members that helped my project along ! Pat
I don't care if I spend twice what the car's worth as long as I get to drive it just once and smoke the hides off of it!

If I'm reincarnated as another person who likes cars, I'll buy one already finished. Or at least start one at a younger age.

In your case, I've been on here long enough to have watched your progress and am proud of you for sticking it out. Look at the end result:thumbsup:

Every time I see your car posted on here, your build history all comes back to me. You're a great example of how things can happen on this forum!

Thanks for the post Pat.
 
You can't afford to buy a $35,000 car but you can spend 7 years building a $5,000 a year car ?
 
You can't afford to buy a $35,000 car but you can spend 7 years building a $5,000 a year car ?

Why not... For me, it's all about the build. I'm sure it's the same for Kid. Besides, some of us are capable.
 
My priorities are my family my job then my toys.. Flippin cars and parts and O.T. helps a lot . Yes it is all about the build. Now that mines done I think I'm gonna build a 68 GTX and it will probably take me another Gang of time and money .
 
For some of us... who ARE capable, and not made of money, it IS about the build. It took me 7 years to build my BBC powered Pro-Street car...

done5.jpg


and 3 years to build my Hemi powered pickup....

MVC-011Fa.JPG


TruckhemiA.jpeg


and another 4 years to build my Hemi powered Deuce....

IMG_3350.JPG


I've owned my Polara for almost 15 years and it sat patiently waiting it's turn in the shop. I'm a little over a year into this build and just about to install the driveline.

IMG_5650a.JPG


Just like some of the other guys on here I take pride in my work AND the fact that I don't have to farm out much if anything. However, unlike other people I don't look down on someone who writes a check to buy a complete car. That's their business. Its usually easy to tell though... when you ask them a question about their car and they have to admit they don't know the answer. It's just too bad some people who do have the cash but may or may not have the talent, look down on those who do.
 
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For some of us... who ARE capable, and not made of money, it IS about the build. It took me 7 years to build my BBC powered Pro-Street car...

done5.jpg


and 3 years to build my Hemi powered pickup....

MVC-011Fa.JPG


and another 4 years to build my Hemi powered Deuce....

IMG_3350.JPG


I've owned my Polara for almost 15 years and it sat patiently waiting it's turn in the shop. I'm a little over a year into this build and just about to install the driveline.

IMG_5650a.JPG


Just like some of the other guys on here I take pride in my work AND the fact that I don't have to farm out much if anything. However, unlike other people I don't look down on someone who writes a check to buy a complete car. That's their business. Its usually easy to tell though... when you ask them a question about their car and they have to admit they don't know the answer. It's just too bad some people who do have the cash but may or may not have the talent, look down on those who do.
I agree ...I always like to say It is not just the destination, (finished product)...But the enjoyment and challenge of the journey. (build) That is so gratifying! ( For those of us to have these talents and abilities!)
 
Wow this really got off the main subject. Sorry guys . I'm out
 
So a little off topic but still regarding doing our own thing, here's something different. Removing anodizing has always been a brutal and labor intensive job. Up till today. I stripped all the anodizing off these pieces in no time flat.

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I used 100% Lye Crystals mixed up in water and dropped the pieces in and watched it go to work. Adding about 4 tablespoons to a gallon of cold water, mix, let it heat up and drop in the pieces. I actually shot the water temp with my heat gun. It went from 57F to 76F in a few minutes. I can sure see why they say NOT to add to hot water.. Hope this tip helps.
 
Wow this really got off the main subject. Sorry guys . I'm out
Where ya going NUTCASE?

It's my thread and I say you can stay! There's not too many threads where we can sit around and have some good conversation, no matter what the topic might be. I was just thinking about how this thread has found a new direction today and thought it was a great thing to be doing this.

I'm still waiting on the starter, the bad weather placed all of the shipments around here a day or two behind schedule, so shooting the fat is ok with me. It might be Monday before I'll get my results on the fitment. The garage takes too much to heat when it gets in the 20's outside anyway. Come on April!
 
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