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1964 Dodge 440

I wonder how it would be to access them with the headlight/bucket removed?
Solid metal behind the headlights... I can see the nut way up in there and one screw at the front behind the eyebrow.
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I am sorry that I am late to the discussion. My Windsor-built 1964 Polara has body colored trunk area. I ordered the large trunk cardboards from Classic Industries. These were on Polara's and Fury's.
Although not possibly correct on lower models, they will fit and clean up the area, especially if you want to hide body work of welding in lower rear quarters.
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Thanks Dave. I figured you'd have it all nice in there. :thumbsup:
 
Spare radio bezel.. score
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Three spare headlight surrounds, two beat up headlight eyebrows and four original hub caps.
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New roof rail seals (top of window to roof) ordered and paid for by the guy I bought the car from. Better his $155 than mine
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Fender nose medallions have seen better days.
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Passenger side is a bit better, but you still can't really see it. PITA to try and get the retainer nut as well. Gonna need someones skinny arm and a 7/16 deep socket. Might be able to get them with 2' of extensions.
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What they're supposed to look like. Ordered, $175US for the pair. Down to a few sets left from the supplier and Jim figures they'll never be reproduced again!
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Reverse lights don't work, may as well get rid of 57 years of road dust.
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Both cleaned up like they're brand new.
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Two out of 4 tail light lenses are crazed/cracked. Four new ones on order for $150US.
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Amazing this thing even has the correct 1964 radiator in it.
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Regarding the picture of the front spring hanger, this is a Mopar Performance piece to mount Super Stock springs in 1966-1970 B-bodies. The front segment length of S/S spring is 20", while the front segment length of a stock "66 and up spring is 22". This adapter has the spring eye holes 2" farther back to mount the shorter S/S springs. However, 1962-1965 springs have a 21" front segment. To mount S/S springs in the earlier cars, you have to use this adapter, and drill new eye holes 1" back from holes in the adapter.
On the subject of the front fender ornament, I think there was some thought of lighting it, as the fender has a hole under this that looks like it could have held a light socket.
 
On the subject of the front fender ornament, I think there was some thought of lighting it, as the fender has a hole under this that looks like it could have held a light socket.
I may just do that... if I can get them off the fender....
 
Factory undercoating is so thick I thought the front wheel splash shields were part of the fender. Can't see the bolt heads... and not going to try to remove it just to get those fender scripts.
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Managed to get my arm WAY up there with a 1/4" drive ratchet and a 3/8 socket to get the fender emblem nut off the drivers side. You can see the light shining through the hole.
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Original seal is a bit cracked up, but new ones will fix that soon. There is NO hole for a light socket...
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A quick polish to see how it will come out. A few scratches to try and fill before I get serious.
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Drivers side headlight eyebrow and the fender emblem and it's housing.
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Need to do something to stop the tire rub in the rear wheel wells temporarily, until I build a narrower sure grip assembly. Hopefully picking up an 1 3/8" narrower '66 axle housing and axles on Monday. For now I cleaned up the air shocks that I took off the Dart last Fall.
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Regular Monroe shocks coming off, air shocks going on.
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Always find the rear axles will sink lower than the shocks will extend and why the axle support post. Just gotta be careful how much load you take off the hoist arms! I actually had to put the car on the floor to get the air shocks on.
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Like I said temporary, so we can drive it a few more times before Winter without wrecking the tire sidewalls.
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Air shocks all hooked up for temporary use. I swear this thing was used for beach racing, there's so much sand under it.
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Aired up to about 25 psi to start, we'll see how that works. I'll note that the '64 upper shock mounts are a lot better for this than '68/'69/'70's!
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Was told the cross ram intake was an aftermarket unit, but now I'm not so sure. Correct chrysler part # cast in, not that that means anything in todays "cheating" world, but it has me wondering..
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April 29 1963 date stamp in the casting..
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200 SC.. anyone know how to tell the real deal??
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Wayne,
Although I've been receiving the updates on the car through YT videos (and if you'd turn on commenting,
I'd have slathered the car with praise on there by now), I've just this evening stumbled upon this thread.
My apologies for my tardiness - threads get lost on this site, always have, least for me - a weakness of
the format being used.
Now that I've read through everything, all I can add is my own heartfelt condolences on the loss of your
sister. Prayers for all of you in the family. :praying:
 
The A&A manifolds that I’ve seen doesn’t have the Chrysler casting numbers.
In my searching I found posts from 2005/2006 that stated A&A was licensed by Chrysler and they were putting the casting# and you could even pick a date "stamp". OE or repro I think we did well at what she paid for the entire assembly, right down to the trans kick down rod.
 
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