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1964 Dodge 440

Aired up to about 25 psi to start, we'll see how that works. I'll note that the '64 upper shock mounts are a lot better for this than '68/'69/'70's!
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Was told the cross ram intake was an aftermarket unit, but now I'm not so sure. Correct chrysler part # cast in, not that that means anything in todays "cheating" world, but it has me wondering..
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April 29 1963 date stamp in the casting..
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200 SC.. anyone know how to tell the real deal??
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Had the same problem on my 63 dodge with tire rub and had airshocks on ran them at 90lbs to get the ride height up. I just added new rear SS springs with 1 1/2 lift higher than stock and new shocks to get rid of my air shocks.
 
Had the same problem on my 63 dodge with tire rub and had airshocks on ran them at 90lbs to get the ride height up. I just added new rear SS springs with 1 1/2 lift higher than stock and new shocks to get rid of my air shocks.
Has newish SS springs on it now. The '64 rear end is an oddball at TWO and 3/8ths of an inch wider than a '62/'63's and the guy I bought if from didn't consider this when they bought new wheels for it. An extra inch of backspace would have been perfect. I have over an 1 1/4" of gap between tire and spring. She needs a sure grip pumpkin anyhow and may as well get rid of the taper axle setup at the same time. Tires scrub the outer wheel well on street bumps, just need the air shocks to lessen the current travel until rear axle swap. Hopefully picking up a '66 charger rear axle housing and axles tomorrow, then to find a sure grip pumkin assembly.
 
I guess I could have answered my own question if I had of just turned the manifold over. Port size pretty much matches the stock 906 HP head I have weighting down my buffing machine pedestal. Maybe a 1/16" larger in each direction, but that's it. Manifold is a reproduction for 413/426/440 use without max wedge heads.
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Has newish SS springs on it now. The '64 rear end is an oddball at TWO and 3/8ths of an inch wider than a '62/'63's and the guy I bought if from didn't consider this when they bought new wheels for it. An extra inch of backspace would have been perfect. I have over an 1 1/4" of gap between tire and spring. She needs a sure grip pumpkin anyhow and may as well get rid of the taper axle setup at the same time. Tires scrub the outer wheel well on street bumps, just need the air shocks to lessen the current travel until rear axle swap. Hopefully picking up a '66 charger rear axle housing and axles tomorrow, then to find a sure grip pumkin assembly.
65 housing would be the best for your issue it's close to the 62/63 width. I did the same thing on my 64 when I had it, used the 65 housing.
 
An A body housing with large bolt axles pattern would be the hot setup. You just need to move spring perches. MO
 
I have a 67 housing in mine.
Fits nicely.
 
65 housing would be the best for your issue it's close to the 62/63 width. I did the same thing on my 64 when I had it, used the 65 housing.
'65 B-body rear ends are up pretty scarce up here in Canada, since those cars were never sold up here new. '66-'67 is likely the best bet.
 
Figured I'd kill some time before everyone showed up for "Thanksgiving" dinner yesterday. Scrubber made by our old neighbour from crotchet string and some MAAS polish, worked very well to clean up the wide flat portions.
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Buffer with White on the hard wheel and rouge on the soft.
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Passenger side eyebrow has a dent, we'll fix it a bit.
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Hammer and dolly time..
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Final polish on the passenger side eyebrow after dent reduction
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Looks good for now back in place. Want to get a few more drives in before I tear all the trim off the car to polish correctly
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Front grill is quite tarnished along the bottom length.
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MAAS and the scrubber cleaned it up a bit, need to take the grill off the car and do it properly with a power wheel this Winter.
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Looks pretty good from 10 feet.
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Need to find a better mirror. Thought this was some junk yard find, but it has a Chrysler part # on it of correct vintage
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Went for a 5 hour tour today to pick up a 1966 axle housing and axles. Bonus was getting him to part with a sure grip unit he was saving for himself at a very fair price.
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742 housing with a "cone" sure grip unit and 3.23 gears.
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Factory gears 3.23:1 ratio. Perfect for cruising.
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Sept 20 1967 manufacture. Would have been a pumpkin out of a 1968 car
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Nice clean wear pattern.
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Housing and axles. Missing the passenger side brake parts, but not a big deal. All I'll need to source is an emergency brake cable lever and strut plate, think I have everything else from tearing down the Bee
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"New" glove box emblem I got from Mark Kendall (Moparmarks) in Colorado. It's actually a real OE x 57 year old script.. for 35 bucks.
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Mark is one of the best for packing parts to "get there". Even if these are just bumper jack pieces that need restoration!
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1964 bumper jack parts. I already have a D shaped jack/post to complete the set. Just need a spare wheel/tire.
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Great guy to deal with!!:thumbsup::thumbsup: @moparmarks
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Wow, thanks for the plug. They actually made it across the boarder in good time. I pack everything so it can take a 6' drop without damage.
 
Well 2nd cruise in the car yesterday and same **** both times after a flawless drive. Shut off and try to start 10 minutes later and no spark. Swapped out the ballast and coil, still no go until I started playing with the ECM plug, twisting it around. Got it to fire twice and thankfully put it in the hoist bay as it won't start again. Add insult, I also killed the OEM starter to boot it appears from cranking it so many times. Of course I don't have a 4 pin control box so waiting for one of those and I guess while I wait I'll put the used mini starter on it that I removed from the Dart during it's cleanup.
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Hey Bird, give me some juice !
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I have a used 4-pin Chrome box here, that I am not using. Was working O.K. last time it was on a car. $60.00 C. shipped. I'm on the good side of the border, so no duty or taxes. PM me if interested.
 
I have a used 4-pin Chrome box here, that I am not using. Was working O.K. last time it was on a car. $60.00 C. shipped. I'm on the good side of the border, so no duty or taxes. PM me if interested.
Thanks, the seller bought me one from Nigel..it's on it's way on Canpar with another item for the Dart that finally came in after 7 months. Should see it tomorrow. Got the car running again about 10 minutes ago by twisting the plug hard CW. Module has a loose pin by the looks of things as it's not the plug/harness.
 
"Beautiful car I'm jealous." My quest for a 64' Polara was disappointing. I looked for months for one and was willing to trailer one back from out West however as you know the one for sale are junk or out of my price range. This one was above of what I could spend, I wish now I would have financed this car I had half the money in the bank.

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This one's a perfumed pig Auggie. Solid underneath and looks good from 10 feet, but no show car. Need to find someone that can detail the Black paint so it's a 5' car, if he doesn't knock the rust bubbles off that is...
 
Guess the starter is coming off while I wait for a new ECM module to get shipped to me.
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OEM starter toasted, off she comes
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Cheap offset wrenches are a Godsent here
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What you need to make it easy. 5/8 on the top bolt, 11/16 on the lower nut.
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OEM top and the mini starter I took off of the Dart last Winter during it's cleanup. It's gonna, hopefully, do for now!
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Positive post hits the block, that won't be good!
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That's what they make cut wheels for..
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Now I've got a good 1/8" of clearance and can proceed to hook it up.
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Good to go and with some twisting on the ECM plug again I have her running again!
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Is the bottom bell housing bolt ear broken?
 
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