1964 Rusty Bucket transformation

[ckessel]

Throw some clear on it to seal the base. Some bases could be left alone, have seen that on some oe applications, but its best to play it safe. Don't forget you will lose some when you weld things back together. Thats where the aerosol can of paint with a 2' or so wand is going to help get some protection back in those areas.

 

[Crumley]

ckessel, thanks for the input. The area will get clear coated before putting the cowl top on. I looked again on the Eastwood site for the 2' wand.....I must be overlooking it.
Another update for today.
I have begun the process of installing sub frame connectors. I have some 2" x 3" x .125 wall rectangular tubing laying around in the shop. This should make some good connectors.
The tubing was cut 4'-0" long. It will be slid into the front of the rear frame rail.

The sub frame connector was squared to the rocker panel. A small adjustable jack stand was used to hold it into place. A piece of flat soapstone was sharpened to a edge on one side.

And laying the soapstone flat against the sub frame connector a cut line was drawn on the bottom of the floor pan.

The line was cut using a cutoff wheel.

After a little trimming the sub frame connector is slid into place.

I will tack it into place tomorrow and start on the other connector.

 

[ckessel]

The wand is shown with some of the rust sprays.

 

[Crumley]

ckessel, You are correct, it is sold with the Eastwood internal frame coating kit. I will get it ordered and heading my way.

Thank you very much.

 

[Crumley]

An update for today. The clear coat has been sprayed in the fresh air box and upper cowl. No Pictures.

The left side sub frame connector is tacked in. Pictures:

 

[Sixtynine_Bird]

Nicely done

 

[mr. b]

looking great keep up the great work keep us posted

 

[Crumley]

I managed to sneak out to the shop today and do a little something on the Belvedere.
My neighbor came up, so I borrowed his help and we set the windshield into place to check the contour at the bottom where the windshield meets the cowl.....it looks good so maybe this weekend the upper cowl will get tacked into place.
The right side sub frame connector is now tacked into place. Hopefully, I can get them welded in tomorrow. Pictures:

 

[Crumley]

For those that are following, the painting wand has been procured. I spent most of the day welding out the sub frame connectors. Pictures:

Both sides are now completely welded. I will be ordering the leaf spring relocation kit for the next step in this process.

I have question for those that running a racing 727. There is a guy local to me that has a big block 727, that has a reverse valve body, 10" converter and trans brake. How is this transmission for the street?
If it is street able I will contact him and negotiate a purchase.

 

[Crumley]

A little update for today, the upper cowl piece is clamped into place and ready to weld. I am holding off on the welding until next weekend....that will give me time (working out of town) to look at it, just to make sure it is where it needs to be.....pictures:

 

[Glenwood]

looking good crumley!

 

[Sixtynine_Bird]

Nice work!

 

[Crumley]

Guy's thank you for the encouragement. It helps when thing just aren't going your way.

I thought I would be ahead of the game by priming and painting the upper and lower cowl....it looks good on paper, but in reality, not so good.

Next time, everything that isn't in the heat affected zone, can be painted (make lots of space for what is in the zone).....I thought, I had cleared enough material out of the the way.....but nope. While tacking, I would end up with a very large burning pile of paint and primer....lol. This while trying to weld in the panel. The upper cowl ended up being the hardest piece, so far, to install. I will chalk this one up to what looks good on paper doesn't always work in reality...lol.
With that written, the upper cowl is now installed. I begun the process of installing the front fenders, to make sure that the fenders and brackets will fit correctly. For the pictures hounds out there:

 

[ckessel]

As you have found out, its not good to jam items to be welded in the weld zone areas. You need to leave them bare metal or squirt weld thru primer on them, then get top coats on and in after welding. Having a paint layer on the weld area can cause no or poor contact for the welding current to get through. Too bad there is not a little robot to sneak in tight areas to apply coatings after panels are put together.

 

[Crumley]

ckessel, you are so correct. I did get to work out in the shop today. All of the brackets that had to be removed in order to do the cowl work, has now been welded back into place. The fenders have been fitted to check alignment. All is looking good.

I think, I will leave the front fenders for now. While I am waiting for the leaf spring relocation kit to come in, I will begin the process of stripping paint and primer from the front fenders.

With the fenders on, it kind of makes it look like a real car.

Gives me motivation to "git-ur-done".

 

[Superfreak]

"MOTIVATION".......the secret word that comes in many different ways and something most of us need every now and then.
Looking better all the time Crumley!

 

[Glenwood]

good to see it all coming together Crumley!

 

[miller]

Curious if you've test fitted the hood to cowl?
I also had to pull my cowl top plate, to deal with the rust. Went back on good. Also had a hood, not original to the car, but didn't figure it would matter. The rise of the hood, against the cowl, is too high...by 3/8".

 

[Crumley]

Gents, thank you for the encouragement....we all need it now and then.

Miller, thank you for the input, I will have my neighbor come up and help me fit the hood. I don't see my wife doing this with out involving a big discussion...lol.

I did manage to get out to the shop this PM. The spring relocation kit came in. The emergency brake brackets where removed. This should make laying out the spring pockets a little easier. The cuts have been laid out in soap stone. The cuts will be made tomorrow. For the picture hounds out there:

With the emergency brake bracket removed, I used the right side brackets to lay out the opposite side of the left side of frame and vise a verse....

I just noticed that nice rust trail running down the frame.....must have come from me sweating my butt off while installing the trunk pan...

While laying everything out, it was noticed that the factory mounting brackets are not very plumb or square.....lol.
Honestly, I don't think anything is level or square on an automobile, other than certain areas of the frame. So, rechecking with a 4 foot level, the car is level left to right and front to back.
Since the factory brackets are not square or plumb with each other. I took a lazier and laid out the cut lines so they would be the at the same distance into the frame.
Both sides are now laid out and ready to cut. This will happen, with luck, tomorrow.

If I am missing a step please chime in...I can miss things with the best of us...lol.

 

[Riverdawg]

Looking really good. Though I'm looking through novice eyes.