1964 Rusty Bucket transformation

[Glenwood]

Looks like fun crumley! I would probably attempt the spring location on mine if it wasn't a convertible. Keep the pics coming!

 

[Crumley]

Here is an update from today. My neighbor came up and the hood was trail fitted (miller thank you for the input). It is a little high in the center, as compared to the cowl, but not enough to worry about. Picture:

Kind of beginning to look like a real car....
The rear spring relocation pockets have been fitted and tacked into place. They are plumb and square with each other....but I don't know, how close to square they are with the center line of the car. This issue is kind of eating at me. I may go out tomorrow and lay out the cars center line on the shop floor and drop points from the spring pockets just to double check their squareness with center line. Pictures:

I have temporarily installed the leaf springs just to check fit front to rear. They look good.

 

[Homstead]

Looks good to me as well! Good job!

 

[ckessel]

You are using the US Cartool units? Thats what I'm going to use along with the minitub units. I'm very curious in seeing how wide of a tire can be fitted after. I know a 315 will fit if you stuff the hangers into the corners, moved over 3/4", which is what I originally planned but changed one I saw the Cartool stuff. When I get ready to put them in, relocation package, I'll enlist the help of a friend who I used to work with at the body shop I managed. He is a whiz on the frame stuff at getting things squared up.

 

[Crumley]

ckessel, yes it is a US Car Tool kit.
Well I got out into the shop today. As the car sits, a plumb line was dropped from center line front and rear. A chalk line was popped on marks laid out on the shop floor. The center line of the spring boxes where done like wise. As far as measuring the spring boxes off the cars center line, they are with in 3/32" of center line....but the spring box on the right side is 3/16" further to the right then the box on the left side. Next weekend, I have a good mind to cut right side spring box loose and reinstall at the same distance as the left side.....I must be a little excessive compulsive...
The rear spring perches have been laid out and the holes cut. But before I tack them, an issue came up. I sent US Car Tool a question to answer.
Sorry no picture from today....lol

 

[Superfreak]

From the pics the drivers side is centred on the rail and the passenger side is off to one side hence your minor issue.
car is looking good.

 

[Crumley]

Superfreak, you are correct on the passenger side being off. It is off 3/16". This issue was kind of eating at me so the RH spring pocket was cut loose this AM and corrected. But, that wasn't the issue/ question for US Car Tool. All I will say is that US Car Tool stood up to the plate and took care of the issue,"promptly". I give two big thumbs up at doing business with US Car Tool.
The front spring pockets have been squared within 3/32" of the center line of the frame and are currently welded in. Pictures:

The man, in the brown box made a delivery this PM with the needed items for the shackle end. Unfortunately, the holes have already been cut in the frame for the smaller insert sleeve sent, now will need to cut a larger hole. I will address this issue Sunday.

 

[Superfreak]

Welding looks good!

 

[ckessel]

What was up with the shackle end? Any photos of wrong verses correct? Would like to see and compare to mine before I get to that area in case I need to send mine back for correction.

 

[miller]

My neighbor came up and the hood was trail fitted (miller thank you for the input). It is a little high in the center, as compared to the cowl, but not enough to worry about.

That hood fit looks a heck of alot better than mine...at least you know!
You thinking my hood is the prob, most likely right. Oh, well.

 

[Crumley]

Superfreak, thank you for the welding complement. I don't see as well, as I us to, and every now and then, my wire welds look decent.

Ckessel, when the spring relocation kit came in, it had the wrong size insert sleeve (shackle end) for a B body. An A body insert sleeve was shipped with the kit. The A body insert sleeve is to small for a B body shackle bushing. Picture:

The insert sleeve on the left side of the picture is an A body sleeve. The one on the right is a B body sleeve. Unfortunately I had already cut the hole in the frame for the A body insert sleeve on the left before it was realized that something wasn't correct. US Car Tool made good on the this little issue and I enlarged the hole in the frame using a rotary file.....

The rear spring relocation brackets have been tacked into place and the rear spring installed to check fit....it looks good to me:

The rear spring perch's welded out...

Next on the list, mini tubes...I must have just fallen off the turnip truck, I haven't a clue as to why I didn't get both the spring relocation kit and the mini tub kit at the same time.....an order will be placed with US Car Tool for their mini tub kit.

Miller, I wouldn't fret much about the hood fitment.....most people will never notice it unless it is pointed out. I was concerned about the gap between the fender and cowl top on my car....it is pretty big on one side. After going to a car show yesterday and looking at Joe Suchy's factory 1964 sport fury it too has this large gap on one side and not much of one on the other....

 

[miller]

Hear that, Crumley. When I found my 64, hood was already off and gone, and then replaced. But the gap bit on one side, kinda figure it has to do with the line up of the inner wells, vs the frame. Shifted over a little, one way or other, would fix it. The factory boys had a bit more sheet metal to play with...pick and chose. Just like the curve at the cowl.
Gotta say...looking real good!!

 

[ckessel]

Crumley, do you remember what the sizes were for the two sleeves?

 

[Crumley]

ckessel, The dimension of the insert sleeves are: Small insert sleeve for an A body is 7/8" ID and 1-1/8" OD. The bigger B body insert sleeve is 1" ID and 1-1/4" OD.

The mini tub kit is ordered and should be delivered Tuesday. I did manage to get out to the shop and do a little work. Since I am waiting on the mini tub kit, I stripped paint off the RH fender, pictures:

There are a couple of dents that will need to be dealt with, one at the point of the fender and the other at the upper corner of the belt line.

I also started the applying all metal to fill the low areas of the cowl, pictures:

There are still some slight low areas that will need additional filler.

While applying the all metal there was a factory ding, about the size of a nickel in the upper left B pillar, so it got filled and smoothed, and the lower area is where a rust hole repair was made. These areas will also get a skim of filler, picture:

The original plan was to apply lead between the 1/4 panel and Dutchman panel. I talked with a local restoration shop and they suggested not using lead. I was shown a vehicle where the lead had started cracking and was showing up in the paint job. So they suggested using Lab Metal or All Metal instead of leading. So I have started the process of filling the low area between these two panels, pictures:

 

[ckessel]

When I get to the back end of my car, it will be another undercoating removal party. I'm envious of yours being clean there. You probably already cleared it off I imagine. I decided to go with the 2x4 on the frame connectors like what you did as opposed to the 2x2 I received from ART. I will still use their torque boxes and safe t caps though. Getting back after it tonight on mine. Keep at it compadre!

 

[Homstead]

Looking good! Carry on.....

 

[Crumley]

Gents, thank you for the encouragement. The US Car Tool mini tub kit came in and I had time to work on the car.
A temporary support was tacked in the center of the trunk to help keep the dutchman panel in the correct location.
The inner fenders where cut out. Pictures:

This wasn't an easy task....rather risky when you need to get into the fender well along with a Metabo side grinder with cutting wheel, to cut the top section of the wheel well out....just be careful, grit your teeth and deal with the sparks.....lol. Hopefully the cutting wheel doesn't come apart on you while in close quarters.
While the inner fender well was cut out, the front of the rear fenders where stretched 7/8" to 1" to accommodate 31" tires. Pictures:

The best part, "pat myself on the back", is you can not tell that the fender openings have been stretched....

The instructions that came with the mini tub kit states the flange of the frame rail will need to be cut off flush with the frame. Cutting this flange flush with the frame rail doesn't set well with me (this will reduce the strength of the frame)....There is about 3/16" to 1/4" offset on the inner fender well. I am going to try to leave enough of the frame flange so that this offset will fit under it and then weld the modified fender well to the frame. I hope that made some kind of since.....

 

[keepat]

Very nice work!! I also left the frame rail flange inplace when put the US Car Tool mini tubs in.
Again great job!
Pat

 

[dvw]

Very nice work!! I also left the frame rail flange inplace when put the US Car Tool mini tubs in.
Again great job!
Pat

If you look closely at the rear frame rails they get wider over the axle. No need to completely remove the flange. Mine has about 1/8" at the top and almost all the flange at the bottom. My car has nearly 400 low 9 second passes. Nothing has bent or moved. 1/4 panels are still perfectly flat. The 1st pic is lousy, but run a straight edge along the outer frame rail and you'll see what I mean. See how square the inner tub is.

 

[Crumley]

ckessel, The brand X, blue truck in my avatar. Its under coating was removed with a rose bud and a putty knife. I heated the under coating with the rose bud and scrapped off the under coating with a putty knife. What a smokey, stinking mess that was.
The undercoating on the Belvedere was removed using a paint putty knife and a narrow, long shank, flat blade screw driver. This was done while consuming adult beverages.....lol. I have found, so far, the screw driver and putty knife routine, the fastest and easiest way to remove undercoating on older vehicles.

keepat and dvw, currently there is approximately 1/8" to 3/16" of the frame flange still there. I will say at this point, that this mini tub install has been a bit of a pain. I am still working on the left side and still have the right side to do. Lots of trimming and fitting, trimming and fitting...etc. The left side is close to being ready to tack together. I will post pictures, hopefully, before the weekend is over.