1966 Coronet Tie Rods, OEM or something else?

[LSS&B]

1966 Coronet Steering Linkage,

Right Side Tie Rod is loose on inner and outer tie rod ends.

Left Side Tie Rod is loose on outer tie rod end, but not inner.

Slots at the end of the tie rods have an oval shape rather than the straight slot shape that I'm used to.

Tie rods get narrow at the ends, so the clamps are at the end of their travel but the tie rods are not tight on the tie rod ends

Lots of broken tie rod end boots.

Question: based on the pictures below, do we think these are OEM 1966 Coronet tie rods or aftermarket tie rods that are not right for my 1966 Coronet? Thanks

Right Side Tie Rod & Outer Tie Rod End

Left side tire rod and inner tie rod end

 

[V_TastyTacos_V]

Never seen that, and I've torn apart quite a few. Original Mopar nuts have only three castellations, not six. I use C-Body tie rods for replacement. They're 11/16" instead of 9/16", and half the price. Moog ES352R ES355RL and ES440S

 

[j-c-c-62]

So, to be clearer, the sleeve threaded ends are "loose" because the clamps are unable to tighten/clamp them further?
And by loose, you mean for example, if attached say at only one end, you could simply spin/rotate the sleeve with your bare hand?
If that is the case, the main issue seems to me would be the clamps are no longer supplying the proper clamping force likely because sometime prior they have been over tightened (repeatedly?) and are now distorted and as you described have no more clamping range left to tighten.
I am in the minority, but I see here no mechanical reason to switch to 11/16" TR, that is IMO a very long-time hot button unresolved issue best left untouched here.
I would be much more concerned personally with the might be seen as the visible rust on the torsion bar in your picture.
Not sure if new clamps are available separately. The sleeve does not appear to be an issue as pictured, it is thought by some that it's design is as a cheap disposable "force" fuse for when a driver hits a curb inadvertently hard, to save other more costly hard to replace important suspension components, like the steering gear box.

My imagination cannot comprehend these TR being a wrong/smaller thread being used, same for the sleeves, but anything is possible stating the obvious.

 

[Don Frelier]

I would be much more concerned personally with the might be seen as the visible rust on the torsion bar in your picture.

I don't see any rust concerns in those pictures.
Looks pretty good to me.
I would just get new tie rod ends and adjuster sleeves, look around for good quality parts.
Summit sells Pro-Forged parts or Moog, Right Stuff full front end kits.

I measure accross the grease zerk fittings closely assemble them on the bench and then just put it in as a unit.
A pretty simple little project.

 

[RemCharger]

For starters, the opening in the clamps should align with the slots in the sleeves to clamp properly. Also, that is not a 66 k frame. So who knows what else has been " modded"

 

[LSS&B]

So, to be clearer, the sleeve threaded ends are "loose" because the clamps are unable to tighten/clamp them further?
And by loose, you mean for example, if attached say at only one end, you could simply spin/rotate the sleeve with your bare hand?
If that is the case, the main issue seems to me would be the clamps are no longer supplying the proper clamping force likely because sometime prior they have been over tightened (repeatedly?) and are now distorted and as you described have no more clamping range left to tighten.
I am in the minority, but I see here no mechanical reason to switch to 11/16" TR, that is IMO a very long-time hot button unresolved issue best left untouched here.
I would be much more concerned personally with the might be seen as the visible rust on the torsion bar in your picture.
Not sure if new clamps are available separately. The sleeve does not appear to be an issue as pictured, it is thought by some that it's design is as a cheap disposable "force" fuse for when a driver hits a curb inadvertently hard, to save other more costly hard to replace important suspension components, like the steering gear box.

My imagination cannot comprehend these TR being a wrong/smaller thread being used, same for the sleeves, but anything is possible stating the obvious

Loose means I can spin the tie rod sleeves on the tie rod end threads by hand. The tie rods don't look right to me.
Torsion bars: I have new 1.03" torsion bars on order from PST
Bought the car 2025-01-16. Getting help from FBBO to figure things out.

For starters, the opening in the clamps should align with the slots in the sleeves to clamp properly. Also, that is not a 66 k frame. So who knows what else has been " modded"

Thanks. Original Poly 318 car by VIN, but 1971 LA 318 was installed. How do we know it's not a 1966 K-frame? Are there other pics I need to take to verify that? What K-frame do I have? Any problems foreseen installing 440V8 on this K-frame? Thanks, Ben
Pictures from above. Glad to take more

 

[copper67sat]

As other have said, I would replace the tie rod ends and sleeves. Another thing to check - it looks to me like your sway bar is installed upside down. The "hump" in the center should go up. Yours appears to go down.

 

[RemCharger]

Not a big deal, but the idler arm mount is of a newer frame. And with the extra pics, it looks like the idler arm is too long . Steering box may be from a newer car as well.

 

[WileE]

Simple, easy, contact Craig at mobileparts, he's on this site.

 

[LSS&B]

Not a big deal, but the idler arm mount is of a newer frame. And with the extra pics, it looks like the idler arm is too long . Steering box may be from a newer car as well.

Thanks.
So 440 will install no problem on this K-frame? Car body looks rust free. Guess as to why someone would go to the trouble of removing a 1966 318 K-frame to install a later B-body V8 K-frame and a 1971 318?

If the idler arm mount is from a newer frame, do I need a later than 1966 idler arm? This FBBO sponsor website shows 1965-1966 idler arm different than 1967-1972.
1965-66 Mopar B-Body Idler Arm
Idler Arm for 1967-72 B-Body and 70-74 E-Body Mopar

Steering box leaks bad, also steering is loose so car wanders. Where do you suggest I source a box? Borgeson, Firm Feel, Steer & Gear?

Simple, easy, contact Craig at mobileparts, he's on this site.

That's an idea. I think it's important to figure out what I'm asking for. See questions above. Advice appreciated.
Now I'm thinking, wonder if center link and pitman arm are right?
Rare Parts shows same pitman arm 1966-1970 so I may be OK, if I have a B-body pitman arm.
PITMAN ARM
Center link looks right from above
What do you think of expensive steering linkage like this from FBBO sponsor BAC? Overkill?
BAC Mopar 11/16" Tie Rod Assembly - Bergman Auto Craft