1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2

[dadsbee]

Which would have come on a 65 built 66? Round knurled or hex?

 

[dadsbee]

New speedometer cable hooked up to transmission and retained by the floor board clip.

$5US, that will save you a bundle on cooked speedometer cables!

Clips to frame just behind the floor to firewall body seam and holds the speedometer cable tight to the frame rail.

Tucked over nice and away from the exhaust pipe.

Keeps this from happening to your cable casing!

A better shot for location.

Inner fender splash shields / upper control arm adjuster access covers.

Like it says, complete with stainless clips.

You can clearly see that the shield was in place during the factory wheel well sound deadening application. Also one clip left in it's hole..

Installs like so. I had to cut the slot and hole for the "over the frame" brake line. Not sure if that line was originally over or under the frame as it appears to have been replaced somewhere in time.

 

[dadsbee]

The passenger side shield, pending what car plant and the installer, some are inside the wheel well and some are in the engine compartment like so.

Mine was definitely, originally, installed in the engine compartment as evident by where the sound deadening was sprayed.

Best I've found locally that simulates factory sound deadening spray.

Just a quick spray on the shield to join the factory profile in the wheel well.

Similar on the passenger side. A quick spray to match the pattern.

A 1966 , hemi only, positive battery cable bracket.

Bracket installs on the front bolt of the 1966, hemi car only, relay panel.

New battery / starter cable that I had bought previously and then painted the 10 gauge wire, that goes from the battery terminal to starter solenoid, Black to match factory correctness. It's not Red (like it really should have been!). Cable assembly also includes the back up light switch's wires / socket and oil pressure light wire.

Ouch + some Black paint!

 

[AR67GTX]

Is that with standard bulbs - really looks bright? I cleaned all of mine up good, ran an extra ground, etc - but I don’t think it’s that bright.

 

[dadsbee]

Is that with standard bulbs - really looks bright? I cleaned all of mine up good, ran an extra ground, etc - but I don’t think it’s that bright.

Yep, all old 158's and the shop wasn't that dark. Dimmer rolled to full brightness. The aftermarket gauges are on key power direct.

 

[64BEL]

Your instrument panel looks great, Wayne - nice work!

 

[dadsbee]

Your instrument panel looks great, Wayne - nice work!

Thanks, but all I did was replace a burnt out bulb and a missing bulb holder by the 110mph mark and fix the circuit board to get the fuel gauge and left signal indicator working. Never opened up the cluster....

 

[64fury74charger]

Thank you for your very detailed pictures and information . This helps everyone when we have issues and may be hesitant to take on certain types of repairs. This is not something that I would consider farming out to some repair facility.

 

[AR67GTX]

It does look great. I removed the one in the 66 last year, cleaned everything up, wiped dust and fog off the bulbs, made sure they all lit up, added a supplemental cluster ground, sprayed the switch with contact cleaner, etc. But its not near as bright as yours appears to be and I wonder why. Maybe the rheostat In the light switch builds up internal resistance over time or something.

 

[dadsbee]

Quick connect for back up light wires and oil pressure switch

Time to get this patched together mess gone..

Original wires have to be removed from the plug housing.

One side is a tab that you can push back and then push the spade out of the housing.

The crap gone ready for the new reproduction harness.

Main cable and especially the 10 Gauge power wire to the panel seeming a bit long at this point but I'll make it work.

What a wonderful place to get a wrench into. Make shift cable and solenoid wires coming off.

New starter wires tightened into place and the firesleeve pulled down to the main lug.

Best I can get it for heat protection.

This is where it got less than fun. I can't imagine that this was the route the wiring was to take for back up switch and oil pressure, but it's the only route that the oil switch wire will make it to where it needs to go and even on this route the back up light wire socket won't reach the transmission switch.

 

[dadsbee]

Cut the tape back about 4 inches and could then JUST get the socket to the transmission switch. Not amused at $235 US !

And when you get in a hurry and just want it over, thinking why did I try to replace **** that was working, I stuffed the wire spades in the wrong side of the socket. Was no walk in the park getting those back out!

Almost pulled off pushing out the lower tabs on those two 57 year old plastic wire retainers, but I broke one that I'll have to deal with. I was afraid they'd break trying to stuff the cable through there during install and I broke one anyhow.

Cable and wire routing to make it work. Reverse light / oil switch wires are just above the column and in the brake line retainer tab. Starter cable has one retainer bracket on the inner wheel well. Guess that master cylinder is up next, it leaked out the rear seal into the interior again while sitting. Never leaked a drop from May until it's last drive on October 25th.

 

[Nxcoupe]

Cut the tape back about 4 inches and could then JUST get the socket to the transmission switch. Not amused at $235 US !
View attachment 1395537
And when you get in a hurry and just want it over, thinking why did I try to replace **** that was working, I stuffed the wire spades in the wrong side of the socket. Was no walk in the park getting those back out!
View attachment 1395538
Almost pulled off pushing out the lower tabs on those two 57 year old plastic wire retainers, but I broke one that I'll have to deal with. I was afraid they'd break trying to stuff the cable through there during install and I broke one anyhow.
View attachment 1395539
Cable and wire routing to make it work. Reverse light / oil switch wires are just above the column and in the brake line retainer tab. Starter cable has one retainer bracket on the inner wheel well. Guess that master cylinder is up next, it leaked out the rear seal into the interior again while sitting. Never leaked a drop from May until it's last drive on October 25th.
View attachment 1395540

I really liked getting all my new wiring and proper battery cable on the car. It looked so much better afterwards. How did you add a redundant ground to the dash? Curious to see that. It would explain a lot of the idiosyncrasies I have in my dash.

 

[dadsbee]

How did you add a redundant ground to the dash? Curious to see that. It would explain a lot of the idiosyncrasies I have in my dash.

Nothing but the factory screws, no need for anything else. Only time you need a ground line is when you have the cluster pulled out, you can see it in one picture clipped onto the headlight switch frame and the other end jammed into the door sill plate.

 

[Richard Cranium]

Hard to believe that the factory was actually able to squeeze a heat shield in there.

 

[dadsbee]

Hard to believe that the factory was actually able to squeeze a heat shield in there.

Probably the only reason they used a direct drive starter was to make room!! Mine has a geared on it, which makes it even tighter in there!

Hoping someone can show me the route that their backup wires and oil switch wire take. I would think it should be up and over the master cylinder and into the wiring retainer tab on the firewall... but I've been wrong before!

 

[AR67GTX]

I think it goes under. Its hard to see clearly but I don’t see more than the main wire bundle running over the MC in these original pictures. But not sure.

 

[dadsbee]

Thanks! That 2nd picture you can see the quick connect for the reverse/oil wires and there is no sign of the wires coming back up and over the master so I guess they went across somewhere like I did. Hopefully someone can confirm that route, as even as I did it the reverse switch wire JUST made it there without any slack for wire retainers that should be on the shifter case cover.

 

[AR67GTX]

Maybe 64BEL can look at his 66 sometime. It seems pretty original if weathered.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Wayne when you had the cluster out you didn't mention that there is a strip of steel spanning thee 3 top holes. Did you have that strip? Just wondering.

 

[Richard Cranium]

Thanks! That 2nd picture you can see the quick connect for the reverse/oil wires and there is no sign of the wires coming back up and over the master so I guess they went across somewhere like I did. Hopefully someone can confirm that route, as even as I did it the reverse switch wire JUST made it there without any slack for wire retainers that should be on the shifter case cover.

Is this what you are looking for?