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1966 Satellite restomod street toy

Hey Brian, I have the 20". I actually bought the Flowmaster American Thunder exhaust system and just sold the Flowmaster 40's and bought the Dynomax
Hey Goon, I think the 20" units will fit and the Dynomax mufflers seem like a
good solution. A friend of mine put Flowmaster 40's on his car and it darn near sounded like open exhaust, way too loud for me! Thanks again for your recommendation, I appreciate it, Brian.
 
Hi Guys', I thought I would post a progress report. The headers are welded and ready for installation, just need to cut some gaskets and get some header bolts. The exhaust ports on the Indy heads are much smaller than the opening in the stock gasket, when combined with the flange shape that I used, the stock gasket doesn't work well. I was assembling the headers to take a photo and realized that they had to come back apart to be installed......... DUH! That explains why only one's assembled. If I decide to ceramic coat them I will wait until the engine has been through break-in and is jetted before I send them out. I didn't put O2 bungs in the collectors, I'm thinking that directly after the V band clamp in the "H" pipe will be a better installation location. After finally deciding what cooling package I wanted, the front dress is finish installed. The cooling package - radiator, fans, trans cooler and all of the necessary brackets are being fabricated and when they are photo ready I will post them. Thanks for looking, Brian.
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Hi Guys', I've been making a little progress and I thought I would post. I managed to fabricate/water jet/machine the parts for the cooling package and Jeff at the shop welded them for me. The radiator and fans package fits very nicely and I hope it provides ample cooling. I guess we'll have to wait and see. John Cope @ Cope racing transmissions recommended that I not run a trans cooler in the radiator and instead run a stand alone air to fluid cooler in front of the radiator. He indicated that he felt that the cooler in the radiator did more to increase the fluid temperature in a dual cooler system and was not as effective as the air to fluid cooler alone. He did add the caveat that the stand alone cooler must have good air flow through it. In the design I placed the passenger side cooling fan directly behind the trans cooler and it will have a gasket to the radiator to assure air flow through it. I sure hope Johns' advice was good because the radiator was built without a trans cooler. What do you guys' think?
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As always thanks for looking. If you have any questions, comments or see any issues please don't hesitate to comment, thanks again Brian.
 
Excellent work!
Like the trans cooler line routing and brackets.
 
This is crazy good. You truly play hardball. No doubt when you are finished you will be Times "Man of The Year".

Thanks for all the post and progress.
 
Agreed, a work of art! In my opinion I think he's right about the cooling, water over the coils obviously pulls more heat out but when the water is already 200 degrees???? Keep it up, you should make the magazines with this one.
 
Agreed, a work of art! In my opinion I think he's right about the cooling, water over the coils obviously pulls more heat out but when the water is already 200 degrees???? Keep it up, you should make the magazines with this one.
Hi 747mopar, there's no question that the "wet" cooler is more efficient but as you point out the coolant temp is starting at the "cool" side radiator temp. I have no idea how much heat the transmission/converter will produce. I would think under constant load conditions, like towing the radiator cooler is likely a requirement. I'm hoping on a lightly driven street car it's not needed. I'm pretty sure I'm about to find out. Thanks for your input it is appreciated, brian.
 
This is crazy good. You truly play hardball. No doubt when you are finished you will be Times "Man of The Year".

Thanks for all the post and progress.
FlagCraig, thanks for your kind comments. As far as the Times "Man of the Year" I think that I'd rather be "Grampa with the cool car" Brian.
 
Hi Guys' I've been making a little progress so I thought I'd post. You guys' are probably tired of looking at this project, I know I am!!! The wiring is completed and utilizes the original body harness from the firewall rearward. All of the electrical systems added to the vehicle, fans, fuel pump, MSD box ect, were placed in a separate fuse panel under the instrument panel. Fortunately Ma Chrysler left enough unused pins in the firewall body connector to allow us to utilize it for all engine harness and front end circuits. I can't take credit for the ultra clean wiring a friend, Dave Decker did the work for me. I still have to do my part and do all of the final tie downs on the harness extensions. The exhaust is all welded and has the hanger hardware fabricated. In the photos some of the parts a tacked together, but it's finished now with the exception of the final installation.

One of the guys at the shop took photos of the car and showed it to a friend that does Mopar restorations. He commented that I had succeeded in turning what could have been a 30,000 dollar car into a 5,500 dollar "beater". I'm guessing I won't be on his Christmas card list!

I hope that all of you guys' and your loved ones' have a great Thanksgiving, Brian.

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Thanks for looking and as always if you have questions or comments feel free, Brian
 
If anyone gets tired of watching this build I think they need to take up another hobby as your attention to detail is incredible!
I really like the embossed rail connectors, and the exhaust hangers!
I've never been a gold kind of guy but you certainly have a Midas touch and won e over! Hats off to you and your team!!!
Hope you have a blessed Thanksgiving too!
 
Badass..... I think he shifted the decimal point that'll be at least a $55,000.00 car. forget the purists. If they can't appreciate something other than a total restoration then they can keep their heads up there where the sun don't shine.
 
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