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1966 Satellite restomod street toy

Awesome craftsmanship Brian! I cannot see why anyone wouldn't appreciate this build, it's not like the car was altered to the point where it couldn't be returned to stock form. I think it is awsome to see all the thought and craftsmanship go into a build like this, keep up the good work. BTW! I am jealous too, wish I had half the talent to do such a build.
 
Awesome craftsmanship Brian! I cannot see why anyone wouldn't appreciate this build, it's not like the car was altered to the point where it couldn't be returned to stock form. I think it is awsome to see all the thought and craftsmanship go into a build like this, keep up the good work. BTW! I am jealous too, wish I had half the talent to do such a build.

arveeotto, thanks for your kind comments, I appreciate your thoughts.

I searched for a very long time for the right vehicle to do this project. I didn't want to restomod a car that I felt was special enough to merit a straight restoration. During the search I passed on a lot of cars that I felt should be restored. This vehicle although in very nice condition, was an "old mans" two barrel, automatic car. During the project I tried to minimize the alterations to the body in white to assure the vehicle could be returned to it's original condition. In the front we removed the upper and lower bump stops and the brake flex line bracket. In the rear we changed the rear shock mount bracket (to accommodate the coil over shock loads) and added a panhard bar mount. I retained all of the components removed from the car for retrofitting if desired. We did add a few bushings to the "BIW" to facilitate some structural attachments, but they are easily restorable. I agree with you and felt that it was important to keep the vehicle "restorable".

Don't be jealous! I'm sure you possess many talents that I do not. If I do have any "talent" it would be that I'm simple minded and will keep working, until I get what I think, I want. I'd like to think of it as tenacious but some of my friends call it ****......LOL. Thanks Brian.
 
Hi Guys'

I've been working on the car and I'm learning how much I don't know. I have been in the performance vehicle and prototype business most all of my life. Early on I worked for some top flight race teams and was around most of the disciplines involved in building and running performance vehicles. I always worked as a fabricator and we mostly built components for the cars. On the rare occasion that the fab shop was done with all of the fab work we would shift to assisting the race mechanics with assembly of the car. I guess what I'm getting to say is that a lot of the processes that are involved in finishing a car I haven't done since I was a kid working on my own cars and really didn't know much about them then. I might of fabricated the intake that took two weeks to build but I was never the guy that got it sealed up and properly installed. A large amount of "stuff" that was accomplished, particularly towards the end of the builds was done buy someone that knew what they doing, not by me! I won't bore you with the list of "I shoudda Knowed That".

The car is running and the cam break-in is done. Now it's on to getting the tune close enough to do chassis shake down in the spring, before it goes to the chassis dyno. Then it's on the fixing all of the little issues that I have discovered SO FAR. I'm pretty sure I'll have a lot of questions for you guys' as I keep working.

A friend stopped by and shot some photos of the bottom of the car from a different perspective. I know you guys' like pics so I thought I'd post them.

I really wanted to wish everyone a "Merry Christmas" and "Happy Holidays". Thanks brian.

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That is what we could call a car!
Amazing job, truly outstanding just like others said!
You must really be excited to take her down to the dyno soon ;)
 
Hi Brian,
I just found and finished reading your entire build thread. All I can say is you have a wonderfully creative mind and tremendous talent to bring your ideas into reality! I have a 66 Belvedere SW and I am in the process of building a 65 Belvedere 2 dr. ht.
I have installed oil accumulators on both (as well as my seldom used truck) and really enjoy watching the oil pressure rise on the gauge before ever cranking the motor. The cars do and will sit all winter without running. We must protect our investments!
Mike (another fellow Michigander)
 
Hi guys' I haven't posted in awhile, I've been fighting gremlins. This car has a mind of her own and will not be cooperative until she's good and ready! When my friend built the new engine harness and wired the car he made the run circuit, power the MSD box but we failed to recognize that we needed a jumper at the ignition switch to supply 12V to the ignition when the key was in the cranking position. When I went to start the vehicle to do the engine break-in we recognized that we had no LED indicator light on the MSD box when in the start key position, so we jumped the run and start circuits at the firewall connector, started the car and performed the engine break-in. After that was completed I called my friend the electrical "guy", yeah "I gotta guy" and asked where I should place the jumper. Armed with his instructions and the schematic, I jumped the correct wires in the connector on the ignition switch. Tried to start the car, won't crank. Carefully reexamined my jumper location and called the wire "guy", he assured me that I did follow the instructions correctly and the circuit should be correct. I pondered this for awhile and finally decided the ground at the neutral safety switch was the only position I hadn't checked. Sure enough, no ground, disconnected the shift linkage from the actuator lever and couldn't find a ground. I jumped the ground and the engine would start confirming that the wiring was okay.

I thought at that point the switch was bad and called John Cope @ Cope Racing Transmissions (he built the trans) to get a replacement. John told me that the single stud neutral safety switch was no longer available and my options were to find a NOS part or he could supply a good used part. John also told me that he didn't think that the switch was the problem and suggested that the shift linkage was not properly adjusted, because I had disconnected the linkage from the shift lever I violated one of my personal rules and ignored the "guy" that knows what he's talking about and requested a replacement switch. John sent me a good used part and I installed it, still no ground....Note to self shut-up and listen Harder! After getting more than a little frustrated one of the guys in the shop noticed that if he put finger pressure upward on the shift lever we had a ground on the switch. Armed with this new information I called John again and he told me that it sounded like the rooster comb needed to be tweeked up a little bit. John the gave me two options for how to do this, one involved removing the switch and carefully prying the rooster comb up with a bent screwdriver the other removing the trans pan so you had direct access and could see what you were doing. I elected to remove the pan because John indicated that it was possible to damage the plastic follower on the comb if not careful. Problem fixed.

Call out for John Cope @ CRT, I purchased a pro-street 727 transmission from CRT in April of 2015, He patiently explained the options and components to me over several phone conversations and was very professional through the process. I ordered a transmission and some extras from him and I was very pleased with the result. 18 Months later when it's likely that I'm not buying anything more from him, he still patiently answers my questions and provides great customer service.

Thanks, Brian.
 
Hello All, I thought I would post a progress report. Unfortunately I haven't made as much progress as I would have liked. The car is on the ground and we've been doing basic chassis set-up. As I'm sure I wrote previously, this car was intended to be a throw-back to the car I wanted to build when I was a young guy. The vehicles that we had "back in the day" always had plenty of rake, steel wheels and dog dish hub caps. I wanted to evoke that same feel for this car. In the photos it's a little lower in the front than I intend to run. Do you guys' think that I have excessive rake in it?
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With the rake that we had in our cars at the time, the small amount of caster and excessive bump steer that was in the original front suspensions of the era, most of them handled like shopping carts. This was especially true when you got on the brakes, dropping the nose and de-castering even farther. Initially looking at the front suspension you would think that based on the upper control arm angle that there was enough anti-dive in the system, that is until you realize that the lower arm pivot is on an approximate 3 degree angle sloping upward in the front. I believe that this was done to package the torsion bars under the floor pan, good for packaging, not so good for anti-dive.

In the new front suspension I elected to keep the UCA in the stock position and remove the lower arm angle to give vehicle additional anti-dive. The new design also has significantly more caster. With the ride height set with rake shown in the photos it has 5 degrees. This is more in line with typical modern geometry.

Sorry, I'm getting long winded...........we squared the chassis set caster, camber and toe. I'm hoping to get the chassis nut and bolted in the next couple of days.

We put it on the scales and put a little cross weight on the right rear. The fenders and hood are on now so I hope to take it on it's initial voyage soon!

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Thank goddess you posted again !! I've been looking for this thread and could not remember the name of it , I can't wait till this car is done , it's gonna be such a swweeeeeet ride !!!!!
 
Thank goddess you posted again !! I've been looking for this thread and could not remember the name of it , I can't wait till this car is done , it's gonna be such a swweeeeeet ride !!!!!
roadrunner69440, thanks, I lose track of posts I was following on a regular basis..........I thought it was just me!
 
Hi guys' In my last post I forgot to up-load the photo of the weights, so I figured I'd do that pic first maybe that way I won't forget it! The left front is 1003 LBS.
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When we started assembling this car it appeared that carb to hood clearance might be an issue. The Indy single plane manifold is relatively tall even without the 1" carb spacer that I'm told it would like. Directly above the carb flange, between the hood under-bracing there was a little more than 2.5" of clearance. Unfortunately the under-bracing requires a relatively large drop at the outer edge of the air cleaner lid for clearance. I located a 16" air cleaner with a 2" drop base that I thought could be modified to fit in the allowed space. A small modification to the base was required to clear the float level screws, you can see the bumps in the base in the photo. We also had to shorten the bowl vent tubes about 1/4" to get the required 1/2" clearance to the lid. If fuel spills out of the vents when driving we'll have to install an internal bowl baffles. As a note the larger diameter air cleaner allows excellent clearance for carb linkage, return springs and fuel supply lines even with the deep offset. Thanks for looking and as always If you see an issue please don't hesitate to comment. Thanks again Brian.

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Looks great! Is that a 14" air cleaner?
Hi Gpuller, it's a 16" air cleaner. The circle track guys' use them on late models, I purchased it from Circle Track Supply in N.C.
The filter is a Wix racing part and is 16" X 3", they list in their catalog a 3", 3.25", 3.5", 3.75" and a 4" version. With the 3" element I have 3/8" clearance to the hood in the tightest location. Thanks Brian.
 
Hi Gpuller, it's a 16" air cleaner. The circle track guys' use them on late models, I purchased it from Circle Track Supply in N.C.
The filter is a Wix racing part and is 16" X 3", they list in their catalog a 3", 3.25", 3.5", 3.75" and a 4" version. With the 3" element I have 3/8" clearance to the hood in the tightest location. Thanks Brian.

Thanks! Good to know, a 14" drop base runs into problems with throttle linkage.
 
Hi Guys', not a bunch to report the car is in the paint shop being surfaced and readied for color. I elected not to gap the panels for fit, just smooth them out and make them straight. I'm hoping that was a good decision, I guess we'll see when it's done. While the car is in the paint shop I've been de-denting, wet sanding and polishing the bright work. Most of the trim on this car was in very nice condition and it was all there. I'm glad I didn't have to replace any of the moldings, all of the pieces I have seen for sale would require heavy re-work. I sent the belt line moldings, the headlight grills and the trunk panel out to de-anodized, polished and re-anodized. There was some minor dents in the belt moldings and it looked as though some one tried to pop the trunk lock and damaged the trunk panel.
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I've also been acquiring the necessary molding clips, fasteners and mastic washers to put all of the trim back on the car, the credit card has been getting a work out!

The pic's of the car are in the dirty booth it will get moved to "clean booth" for color. I will post photos of the bright work when it's all polished. Thanks for looking, Brian.
 
Nice to see bodywork underway, I've been looking forward to seeing this one completed.:popcorn:
 
Nice to see bodywork underway, I've been looking forward to seeing this one completed.:popcorn:
Thanks 747mopar, I'm not sure this vehicle will ever be "done" but it is nice to see it moving along. My intention has always been to get the car to the point where it is a nice driver and then continue to work on small projects as upgrades. For me trying to accomplish everything that you might desire in a vehicle in the first pass, seems overwhelming. An example would be fuel injection, it's been part of the plan from inception. The fuel system was built to accommodate F.I. and when I feel I have the car fully sorted out, I hope to install one of the self learning systems. An added benefit to my slow motion methodology has been favorable cost changes on some components. The new F.I. systems are substantially less expensive that when I started this project........LOL. Thanks again, Brian
 
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