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1968 Plymouth GTX

The icing on the cake is if your crank is good, have it polished and have the oil holes chamfered! Done!
 
I cleaned up the crankshaft and tried my hand at polishing. It's not perfect but there are no sharp ridges or deep scratches.
All the oil ports are clear and I sprayed the whole thing with WD40, inside and out, to prevent any rusting.
Crankshaft Polished.jpg
 
Wash it with hot soapy water and use brushes that will get into the holes all the way through!
Rinse it off and blow it off with compressed air. You can't leave anything abrasive in the oil holes.
Measure all of the journals in three spot to make sure they're round. It looks really nice! Yup, she's
a forging!
 
Decided to try my hand at installing the side stripes.
Started on the passenger side and it took quite a while to get it laid out properly. Had to open the door slightly while squeezing the water out.
It's in the drying stage (3 hours minimum) and then I can remove the protective layer and fold and glue the ends down. Tried getting the ends to lay down while wiping it down but no go.
Drying Stage.JPG
 
Decided to try my hand at installing the side stripes.
Started on the passenger side and it took quite a while to get it laid out properly. Had to open the door slightly while squeezing the water out.
It's in the drying stage (3 hours minimum) and then I can remove the protective layer and fold and glue the ends down. Tried getting the ends to lay down while wiping it down but no go.
View attachment 1827041
If the ends don't want to lay down I've used a couple drops of Super Glue in the past..
 
Right side stripes done.
Right Side Done.JPG


When I removed the protective covering the ends folded over and stuck securely. I will double check them tomorrow after I finish the left side.
 
Left side done:
Left Side Done.JPG


Things I learned doing this by myself. Note: prior to beginning this process, I had wiped the area clean with solvent based wax and grease remover, spraying it on and wiping it off with a towel. It had plenty of time to dry while I did the following:
1. The stripes come with a clear protective outer layer and a white under layer.
2. When installing you have to get them into position and then be able to remove the white under layer.
3. My plan was to tape the stripes into place temporarily in order to ensure proper placement. Then completely tape the upper portion on the outer protective layer to the metal that would allow me to loosen the bottom and flip it up, giving me access to remove the white under layer.
4. The stripes came in one wide strip containing both sides, so I had to cut it in half down the middle with scissors. The fender, door and rear quarter stripes need to be separated but cutting as well.
5. Next I measured to find the centerline between the stripes. Measuring from the outside edge of each stripe, in my case 1 1/4".
6. I then measured from the centerline to the uncut edge of the protective outside layer. I will use this as the top so everything is nice and straight, in my case 1 9/16".
7. Next I found the centerline of the GTX emblem by measuring from the lower body line, in my case 2 5/8". Adding this to the 1 9/16" gave me 4 3/16" as the top line position.
8. Using a white wax pencil, I marked the top line position at each end.
9. Using a string and a clamp, I positioned the rear portion just above the GTX emblem, then taped the string to the body over the wax pencil mark, pulled the string straight over the front pencil mark and taped it into place.
10. I carefully pushed the string inward to tape to the door area.
11. Measuring the door and the door stripe helps to get it positioned evenly by giving you an idea of how much to extend past the edge.
12. Using masking tape, I then positioned the factory uncut edge up to the string and taped over the string and onto the top of the outer protective layer. I used my finger nail to make sure the masking tape was tight to the string on both sides.
13. Once it was in place, I removed the small pieces of masking tape along the bottom where I had used it for positioning.
14. Using soapy water and a 3" wide plastic Bondo spreader, I began at the fender and raised the bottom edge up so I could remove the under white layer. Holding it gently in place while soaking everything with the soapy water.
15. Then I laid the stripe back in place and began wiping it with the spreader to press the water out. As the stripe began to adhere, I would remove the top masking tape and let the string hang.
16. Continued this process all the way to the back. I did have to open the door slightly so the overhanging edges didn't interfere with the pressing the stipes down to the edges.
NOTE: I did not try to fold the ends of the stripes around the edges at this time.
17. I wiped the stripes with a dry microfiber towel and then left them overnight. (Instructions say at least 3 hours to dry)
18. The next day I carefully removed the outer protective layer as per the instructions, pulling at 180 degrees. What I found was the stripes easily folded around the edges and stuck firmly once the protective layer was removed.

Disclaimer: I am not a professional by any means, just wanted to share my experience and technique. Hopes this helps.
 
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Glad this part is over. You have to be a contortionist to install this stuff and my muscles are telling me I am not one.
Headliner Insulation 1.JPG


Headliner Insulation.JPG


I have quite a bit left over, so I may try to put some inside the sail panels.
 
I am missing a couple of clips that hold the upper front molding in place but also need to know if these holes are factory or not.

There is a 1/4" square hole at each end:
Square Upper Trim Clip Hole.jpg


Then the remaining are 1/4" round holes:
Round Upper Trim Clip Hole.jpg


Is this normal? Also will these clips fit in the round holes properly?

Upper Trim Molding Clips.JPG
 
If you look at those clips carefully you'll see that they fit in the square holes and are squeezed at the factory to get them
to fit Tight. You have to bend them back to fit like new and then squeeze the center part with long nosed vice-grips to
get them tight again. Those clips are for the screws that hold the upper trim piece up.
20210621_201848.jpg
 
If you look at those clips carefully you'll see that they fit in the square holes and are squeezed at the factory to get them
to fit Tight. You have to bend them back to fit like new and then squeeze the center part with long nosed vice-grips to
get them tight again. Those clips are for the screws that hold the upper trim piece up.View attachment 1830180
So are the factory holes both round and square?

Thanks for explaining how to install them.
 
Thanks.

Is the piece with the marks on it what you used as a template for the headliner installation?

I installed the one on my signature car but it was so long ago, I can't remember what I did.
 
I don't understand? The piece with the marks on it.
In the last picture, it looks like a thin cardboard or heavy paper.
The very first picture you posted is a white headliner. Is this a backing or something?
 
The first picture is one of the clips for the trim piece on a white background. My car is under a large Sun Shade
outside if that's what you mean? The headliner is a pale blue. and there is white insulation glued to the roof
behind the headliner.
 
1743552499993.png


in this picture, there seems to be what looks like paper or thin cardboard attached to the car.
 
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