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1969 GTX....The T stands for tetanus

Today I dropped ghe bottom end off at the machine shop. It is a NAPA but they have a really nice shop and the guy that runs it is a huge A body guy and knows his Mopars so I feel it is in good hands.

That does make you feel better. When I found that Dave was on this forum and an old Super Bee owner my confidence when up a lot.

Cleaned and re flowed the heater core, still holding pressure.

Reflowed? More info?
 
Reflowed? More info?

Bead blasted the input and output line fittings, fluxed, then heated with a torch. It liquifies the old solder and will re seal any cracks that have formed over the years. I usually do it with soldered electronic connections as well. If you need to add solder just make sure it is very clean, hence the blasting and flux.
 
Bead blasted the input and output line fittings, fluxed, then heated with a torch. It liquifies the old solder and will re seal any cracks that have formed over the years. I usually do it with soldered electronic connections as well. If you need to add solder just make sure it is very clean, hence the blasting and flux.

I tried that with mine but I could not seem to get it hot enough with my propane torch. I sent mine to Glen-ray. I really wanted to do what you said but it needed it everywhere and the honeycomb joints scared me.... don't want to deal with a leak after I put this thing in.....
 
I tried that with mine but I could not seem to get it hot enough with my propane torch. I sent mine to Glen-ray. I really wanted to do what you said but it needed it everywhere and the honeycomb joints scared me.... don't want to deal with a leak after I put this thing in.....

The pipe joints are easy enough but doing the end tanks you need oxy acet setup to keep the temp. Sending it off to have professionally done is good peace of mind.
 
It's the little things that make me smile. Happiness is a new trunk mat, jack instruction sticker and brake pedal pad.
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And I got the heater box rebuilt (did not restore it per se) but it was cleaned up, rusty metal coated in corroseal converter, new foam applied and reassembled. Installed sound deadening behind it first. Still need to pull it back out to replace the motor vent and plug in the firewall pins so there are no extra holes in the engine compartment.
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And received my new 3/8" fuel lines. The box it came in is massive.
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And I called about my Soffseal weatherstripping kit I ordered in December..... 4 more weeks backordered:(
 
It's the little things that make me smile. Happiness is a new trunk mat, jack instruction sticker and brake pedal pad.
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And I got the heater box rebuilt (did not restore it per se) but it was cleaned up, rusty metal coated in corroseal converter, new foam applied and reassembled. Installed sound deadening behind it first. Still need to pull it back out to replace the motor vent and plug in the firewall pins so there are no extra holes in the engine compartment.
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And received my new 3/8" fuel lines. The box it came in is massive.
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And I called about my Soffseal weatherstripping kit I ordered in December..... 4 more weeks backordered:(

So do you have to get your car T-Boned for that line to fit. :)
 
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Have the car out in the driveway around six I'll see if I can see that SPI clear shine from 30,000 feet :)
 
Oh, and I posted this in my other thread about how the jack mounts. I was not going to pay $25 for a rectangular piece of stamped steel and $25 for a threaded rod... so I made my own and don't you know, it works just fine lol.
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I'm watching your under-dash installation for pointers to make sure that I am doing it right. Thanks for the pointers. It looks good. I put the insulation pad and jute mat behind my parts on the firewall but I think that it would also be good to put the sound deadening down first like you did.
 
I'm watching your under-dash installation for pointers to make sure that I am doing it right. Thanks for the pointers. It looks good. I put the insulation pad and jute mat behind my parts on the firewall but I think that it would also be good to put the sound deadening down first like you did.

It's pretty straightforward. It will get hairy when I get the dash mounted.

Got the 3/8" fuel line installed last night. What a pain in the butt! Subframe connector up front made the angle going through the trans crossmember a bit sporty. And that stuff doesn't bend easy. Took a while but I managed to get it in and mounted up. New hose and ground strap attached at the sender. Ready for fuel......oh, and a motor lol.

Today I blasted and painted the jack pieces and have been cleaning up more runs with the razor blade. Starting at 2000 grit and hitting it with a medium compound cleans it up nice. Once the runs are out, the whole car gets the light cut buff. And I keep finding more runs.
 
Very fast progress since paint, this is my favorite part putting parts back in all nice and clean! Great work.
 
Back to work in the time machine, aka sand blaster. Took off the driver door tracks to refinish. With a rusty floor on this side, these were pitted. They are generally nasty anyway and need to be taken apart to be properly cleaned and lubed. Now I thought it would be easy to take apart. Nope. The only way I see possible was to grind off a rivet top (roller cage hits these as a stop.) There are 2 cages, one in front and one in back. Each has 2 ball bearings and one steel roller held in a steel cage.

Here is the muck
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The hardware is crispy and will be tossed as I have a new set of the spacers and nuts. So I ground down the head of the rivet. Just need to grind the head off. If you are restoring, a new rivet would be easy enough to put back in. Once mine is re assembled I plan to build up a rosette weld in its' place.

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Once the head is ground, I used the bent end of a pick to wiggle the cage up near the end and with a little coercion it popped out.

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Here are the cages cleaned up
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Next step, blaster
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I coated the pitted metal with Corroseal in case I didn't get it all.
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And that's when things went sour...

This little guy right here needed replaced because the shank was rusted thin.
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Now, typically I cut the threaded shank off, drill and tap the head for a new threaded shank, insert shank and rosette weld the top of the head. Easy peasy....not this time. Three dull drill bits couldn't cut through hot butter and after breaking my die grinder putting an edge on em the tap broke off flush!! So I had to pop the head, hammer the tap until it broke out and then I could weld in a new threaded shank. Now if i had a carriage bolt of this size I would have just used it but I didn't and didn't feel like waiting. So, here is the new bolt...
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I have one side painted and baking, the other waiting for the converter to dry. To be continued.....
 
I ran into the fuel line problem you did. Subframe connectors didn't help. I cut mine and used a compression fitting to solve the problem. Your moving right along. I'm getting ready to start on mine again this weekend.
 
Got the driver side back together, not looking forward to the pass side lol. I had to order return springs because there are none on these seats. I'm thinking they got lost after the seats were re covered years ago. But they roll smooth and levers operate freely. Note: The rivet I ground off, it would be easy to drill through and insert a bolt with locking nut to make them more easily serviceable in the future. I just welded a nut because I don't plan on taking these apart again in my lifetime.

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Cam is pretty close to what Jim had ground for mine. I used a 112 CL to smooth out the idle. I used 1.6 rockers to get the most out of it.
 
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