1969 GTX....The T stands for tetanus
- Thread starter threewood
- Start date
Yes it's much easier to change on the table that's for sure.
Ready for new rear tires yet?
threewood
Well-Known Member
Lol, not quite. They do spin quite easily still but not as bad as the skinnies I had on it. It will still spin sideways when I romp it at 20 - 30 mph
threewood
Well-Known Member
I was having an issue with the 2-3 upshift at WOT. It was hanging for a while at shift point and sometimes would shift and sometimes I would have to let off a bit to get it to go. Well, it seems that because of the TF2 shift kit heavy pressure regulator springs I had to back off the throttle pressure lever to where there is some slack after the throttle opens before the pressure lever moves. Nice and crisp shifts at 5400rpm now. I didn't get a whole lot of testing done as it is still 104 degrees at 8:48pm in the evening plus storm clouds are building. But I believe the adjustment is very close.
Before driving it around I finally fixed my Bouchillion bracket. As made, it does not allow a linear pull for both the throttle pressure cable and accelerator cable because they are offset. So I cut and re welded the lower bracket for the kickdown cable toward the carb. It is now directly under the accelerator cable and pulls true.
Before driving it around I finally fixed my Bouchillion bracket. As made, it does not allow a linear pull for both the throttle pressure cable and accelerator cable because they are offset. So I cut and re welded the lower bracket for the kickdown cable toward the carb. It is now directly under the accelerator cable and pulls true.
rakort
Well-Known Member
but its a dry heat!
threewood
Well-Known Member
I was experiencing a stumble when going 3/4 to WOT and I noticed it never occurred at night. No issues driving or idling. It occurs randomly, but always after the car is warmed up. I was also having an issue with plug wires coming off the distributor cap but I was also thinking fuel related. I have ordered a set of Firecore wires with hei male plug dist cap for the stock distributor which should cure the pop off issue.
For the fuel side, I decided to installl a phenolic carb spacer and to re route the fuel line away from the headers. To get the spacer to work, I had to recess the air cleaner top for hood clearance. I used my shop press and a large socket.
And I routed the fuel line under and around the wheel well and back to yhe pump under the splash shield. Hopefully this helps, it definitely won't hurt.
For the fuel side, I decided to installl a phenolic carb spacer and to re route the fuel line away from the headers. To get the spacer to work, I had to recess the air cleaner top for hood clearance. I used my shop press and a large socket.
And I routed the fuel line under and around the wheel well and back to yhe pump under the splash shield. Hopefully this helps, it definitely won't hurt.
I think you will be happy with the Firecore wires. They are like a work of art and fit really well, and connect with a reassuring 'CLICK'. My Road Runner seems to idle a bit smoother, but time will tell when I drive it a bit more.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
THE HORROR! DON'T GET IT WET!
Any updates?
threewood
Well-Known Member
I've been on vacation visiting the family so I haven't worked on the car in a few weeks. I did install the spacer and re route the fuel line plus relocated the coil to the inner fender and the stumble was still there driving to work during the day, no issue at night. Weird.
I have the firecore wires, cap, rotor waiting on me back home and I may throw in new plugs as well. I am ordering a fuel gauge so I can see how it looks at wot.
Can boiling fuel cause a lean condition at wot while not effecting low / medium engine load ? How about float levels?
It is a non issue at night with cooler temps so I am scratching my head. Would or could plug wires be sensitive to temps when under load? I inspected the engine running at night in the dark and no visible spark jump. Obviously harder to see during daytime which is when the stumble occurs. Gotta be fuel or ignition...
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Yes. A guy in Vegas is fighting no fuel at WOT on the Small Block Mopar Facebook page. Same symptoms. He put a glass filter near the carb and sees times when the modem fuel flashes off and it goes dry. He went on vacation so he hasn't moved to the next step (can't recall what was next, insulate the heck out of the lines and isolated carb spacer?)
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threewood
Well-Known Member
That is what I am leaning toward. If it were ignition cutting out it would pop pretty good when the fuel dumped into the engine was ignited when it did fire.
I am going to insulate the rest of the lines and check pressure. I may even improvise a cool can to see if the problem goes away when the gas is cooled.
I know---- late as usual. Hope the vaca went well. How old is the carb? Haven't followed along until today; my old AVS has an off-idle stumble only after it hits about 180* on the engine. I'm thinking the carb body is expanding and screwing up the acc.pump shot. There are so many things that these old things can come up with!
threewood
Well-Known Member
Carb is new, pump is new, lines are new, sender is new, tank is new.
I have heard of the off idle stumble but mine is crisp off the line up until 4k rpm or so and it stumbles like miss or ignition cut out. If I feather it at higher rpms it seems to catch up and run smooth until I go wot again.
threewood
Well-Known Member
I'm running 3/8 hardline from tank, new Edelbrock high volume pump with 3/8" fittings to the carb. Pump has less than 50 miles on it. Suppose to be built for the AVS carbs. I had the same issue with the stock style pump with smaller fittings. It is all speculation until i get a pressure gauge on it while driving.
Well then I could be wrong, ran a 440 to high 11's with 5/16" fuel line and a elec. pump in the rear by tank. Again I go back to weak gas that is optimized for current fuel injection? Mine has an empty fuel bowl after 3-4 days of sitting!!!
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