1969 GTX....The T stands for tetanus
- Thread starter threewood
- Start date
rakort
Well-Known Member
Arghhh, get an Air Conditioned basement shop I say!I know humidity, I grew up in Kentucky. It's only 109* right now in Yuma
Superfreak
Well-Known Member
Nice work you are doing. Obviously not a first timer??
threewood
Well-Known Member
Thank you. This is my first complete rebuild, never did body work like this before. With the price of completed cars, a rusty car in need of repair was my only option to have one. It gives me the motivation to rebuild it as best as I can. It is also a good experience in learning how these cars were built. With all the repop stuff it is as close to plug and play as you can get. Only cost is some blood, sweat and tears. Oh, and plenty of weld splatter burns lol
threewood
Well-Known Member
Main floor is in and welded. I still need to clean up the transmission tunnel seam but rosette welds are ground. I was going to fabricate a rear pan for the drivers rear but it would take me more time than I care to spare so I ordered the AMD rear section along with other build parts from Summit. Should have them here early next week. While fitting the pan I realized that part of the flange in the trans tunnel (firewall to floorpan flange) was cut off so i had to fabricate one. There always seem to be surprises.
And coming attractions............. roof replacement
And coming attractions............. roof replacement
threewood
Well-Known Member
Got sidetracked today. Started out grinding down welds and welded in a small piece on the drivers rocker. One thing led to another and I was cleaning and painting some parts. Nothing huge, trans cross member, E brake, and rebuilt my wiper motor (not restoration, but it will do). I still need to test it but nothing was smoked inside. Got in my aluminum radiator, body plug kit, and a few random parts. Ugh, there is a ton of little things.
threewood
Well-Known Member
Tested out my wiper motor and it is dead. Just going to have it rebuilt by passion4mopar.
Got way sidetracked for the last 2 days waiting on my floor pan. My girlfriends reel mower. Use to belong to her grandfather and she grabbed it from her Mom's to use in her backyard. It was a little beat and no where near sharp, wood split, etc. It is an Eclipse Model H ball bearing (only made between 1927 and 28). Original color was silver with red, gold or blue accents.
Very little info about them so I took it all down, blasted the metal parts, repacked the bearings, lubed it, set the blades and used grinding compound to sharpen the blades. New oak handle, fixed the cracks and added 3 coats of urethane outdoor. I used up my "argent silver" so I guess I have to order somemore. I took it out back and it works fine except for the thick stuff. She is out of town so she doesn't know I did it
Before....
And after...
Got way sidetracked for the last 2 days waiting on my floor pan. My girlfriends reel mower. Use to belong to her grandfather and she grabbed it from her Mom's to use in her backyard. It was a little beat and no where near sharp, wood split, etc. It is an Eclipse Model H ball bearing (only made between 1927 and 28). Original color was silver with red, gold or blue accents.
Very little info about them so I took it all down, blasted the metal parts, repacked the bearings, lubed it, set the blades and used grinding compound to sharpen the blades. New oak handle, fixed the cracks and added 3 coats of urethane outdoor. I used up my "argent silver" so I guess I have to order somemore. I took it out back and it works fine except for the thick stuff. She is out of town so she doesn't know I did it
Before....
And after...
threewood
Well-Known Member
Got my fuel tank in today. $105 shipped off of Ebay from a place called Vans in WI. Zinc plated. Can't beat that with a stick! So I was able to check fit and weld in my tank strap brackets.
Got the brackets where I needed them, marked the floor and drilled some holes for welds and held them in place with some screws. And welded them in.
With them in place I was able to mark off and re-tack my spare tire bracket. There were 2 spot welds on the foot and the sides had welds.
And I received my rear floor pan so I am working on cutting off what I don't need and getting it ready to tack in.
Got the brackets where I needed them, marked the floor and drilled some holes for welds and held them in place with some screws. And welded them in.
With them in place I was able to mark off and re-tack my spare tire bracket. There were 2 spot welds on the foot and the sides had welds.
And I received my rear floor pan so I am working on cutting off what I don't need and getting it ready to tack in.
threewood
Well-Known Member
Rear drivers floor pan is in.
Make sure when you ship your motor to Kim at passion4mopar you get a firm date on getting it back. I felt like I got the run around on mine. 4-6 weeks turned into 3-5 months. I might be the exception but just letting you know. It was very nice when I got it.
threewood
Well-Known Member
Good to know, thanks. I'm just getting it repaired, not restored, so she said the turnaround was a couple of days.
threewood
Well-Known Member
Roof fell off!!!!!!
Not really, but it is sitting in a heap on the side of my garage. Still a bunch to clean up but the structure underneath is good, The pass side needs a patch in the upper quarter where the roof meets the body. I will probably replace at least the pass side drip rail because it has some rust and needs to come out to patch the upper quarter panel that is under the drip rail.
For anyone that has done a roof skin, is it better to drill spot welds out from underneath through the drip rail or up top through the roof flange? (welding on top or underneath) I'm trying to look ahead and see how I should go about removing the donor roof section so it will go on my car easier and be easier to clean up.
Not really, but it is sitting in a heap on the side of my garage. Still a bunch to clean up but the structure underneath is good, The pass side needs a patch in the upper quarter where the roof meets the body. I will probably replace at least the pass side drip rail because it has some rust and needs to come out to patch the upper quarter panel that is under the drip rail.
For anyone that has done a roof skin, is it better to drill spot welds out from underneath through the drip rail or up top through the roof flange? (welding on top or underneath) I'm trying to look ahead and see how I should go about removing the donor roof section so it will go on my car easier and be easier to clean up.
silvertonguedevil
Well-Known Member
Wow!! Some VERY impressive work going on here!!
threewood
Well-Known Member
Got started on a patch for the pass side sail panel. Cut the rot out, fashioned a piece from the pile of scral next to my garage. Got it pretty close, and hand fashioned the flange. I'll finish it up tomorrow.
joseph p.
Well-Known Member
you have an admirer her,,,it is coming along,,after that ,,,hard blood sweat and tears.. its downhill from there..excellent craftsmanship.
threewood
Well-Known Member
Thank you for those kind words. I'm just doing what I can to save her.
Got the pass side upper quarter patch in. Not too bad, I am going to fill the seam with All-Metal. The original was filled with lead.
threewood
Well-Known Member
Here is my work area for the next several days. The shade and breeze help out when it is 106*. So many spotwelds and the pass side has spotweld drags so even more work. This roof section came with the car but the work needed to R& R the skin has me contemplating a fresh roof from AMD.
threewood
Well-Known Member
205............205...........205 spot welds that I had to drill out to get the roof off the donor!! Not including all the elongated spotwelds I had to deal with. And, I get to fill 205 spotwelds when I weld it in. And I have to grind down 205 spotwelds! I need a drink lol (wish I could but I have to be to work in 2.5 hours).
Would have been worse if the body seam sealer was hard. This stuff was still pliable so I got a screw driver under it and pried it up down the length. There were a few spots that hung up because of a sliver of metal but plenty of cussing, a drill and hammer got it free. The seam seal on the roof supports was held fast so I went under and heated it up with a torch and unstuck it with a putty knife.
Hard part in my opinion is over. Now prep to install the new top. I need to clean up, dolly the edges, apply Rust bullet under the roof and spray weld through to the underside of the flange. For the car, I need to replace a section of roof rail on the pass side, clean up surface rust, dolly the window flange in the rear and then I can start fitting it.
Would have been worse if the body seam sealer was hard. This stuff was still pliable so I got a screw driver under it and pried it up down the length. There were a few spots that hung up because of a sliver of metal but plenty of cussing, a drill and hammer got it free. The seam seal on the roof supports was held fast so I went under and heated it up with a torch and unstuck it with a putty knife.
Hard part in my opinion is over. Now prep to install the new top. I need to clean up, dolly the edges, apply Rust bullet under the roof and spray weld through to the underside of the flange. For the car, I need to replace a section of roof rail on the pass side, clean up surface rust, dolly the window flange in the rear and then I can start fitting it.
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
