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1969 GTX....The T stands for tetanus

Great news that your enjoying your car!
Thanks. It is running good besides the lousy fuel mileage lol. Not much left I need to do. I did order a fuel gauge correction box to get the gauge to read accurately. It is powered by 12v and gets spliced in line of the sender wire and fully adjustible. Right now it reads 3/4 on a full tank.

4° shims went in without issue. I also have a set of longer rear shocks on the way as the ones on it were a stock set I had laying around I took off the Belvedere.
 
I checked my sending unit on mine while I had the tank out had to do some tweaking on it but got it really close at 1/4 & 1/2. I figured those were the 2 most important readings.
 
I need to call Meter Match tomorrow. It flat out won't adjust and I am a bit more than pissed. With my meter, I get 12v keyed on, ground is a solid 0.1 ohm, sender wires are tight.

Without the box hooked up, on a full tank I show a bit above 3/4 on the factory gauge, solid 16.1 ohms.

Hook the box up, along with my ohm meter and the adjustment buttons do dick. Gauge will not go above 3/8 on any of the 4 settings and the ohm meter bounces all over the place. No linear up or down. Reset it several times, checked connections and nada. POS. 3 hours of my day wasted .
Update- It needs a solid state instrument VR to work properly. It works nice with this installed!! No more issues.
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Do you have the resistance values of the sending unit at full and empty?
 
Do you have the resistance values of the sending unit at full and empty?

Not the sending unit. I didn't check it before installing. Full should be 10 ohms. What I am seeing is 16 ohms but I have no reference as to where the arm contact on the sender is.
 
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And you have the grounding strap that connects the sending unit metal pipe to the metal of the fuel line (effectively ensure a good ground across the short rubber hoses from the sending unit to the fuel lines) under the car?
 
Did the gauge work previously? Is it a new sending unit?

As Jim said above almost every electrical issue I have involves a ground....
 
And you have the grounding strap that connects the sending unit metal pipe to the metal of the fuel line (effectively ensure a good ground across the short rubber hoses from the sending unit to the fuel lines) under the car?

Gauge works perfect, sending unit does not quite match in ohms. The ground at the sender is solid. It is grounded to the chassis instead of the fuel line.

When I installed the Meter Match is when the problems came about. Remove Meter Match and no issues other than the reading is a liittle off. The only variable is Meter Match. It simply is not working.

Did the gauge work previously? Is it a new sending unit?

As Jim said above almost every electrical issue I have involves a ground....

Gauge still works, sender still works, just not with the Meter Match. I had previously installed an extra ground wire to the cluster and the sender is grounded to the chassis. And I tested the gauge at 10 ohms with my gauge tester and it puts the needle at full. So the sender works but is far enough out of range to make my gauge read 3/16th low throughout the sweep.
 
That sucks when you buy new stuff and it makes a turn for the worst....
 
I knew about this potential problem and set up the tank and gauge before installing, to tweek the sending unit to get it close at 1/4 & 1/2. I didn't care where it read on the rest of the gauge. I just want to know when I'm getting low so I don't run out. I think short of pulling the tank you'll just have to figure out at what reading, you have X amount of gas in the tank. Initially it was off quite a bit.
 
That sucks when you buy new stuff and it makes a turn for the worst....

Yes it is. Same with my Edelbrock fuel pump that couldn't keep up :( I am almost tempted to drop the tank and see about adjusting the float arm. I have to wait until I drive the gas out first. I emailed the company but they are closed this week so I am not going to hear back for a while.
 
I knew about this potential problem and set up the tank and gauge before installing, to tweek the sending unit to get it close at 1/4 & 1/2. I didn't care where it read on the rest of the gauge. I just want to know when I'm getting low so I don't run out. I think short of pulling the tank you'll just have to figure out at what reading, you have X amount of gas in the tank. Initially it was off quite a bit.

Haha, yea. I accepted the fallacy that it would be accurate without tweaking...what was I thinking! I Need to fill my 5 gallon gas can up and drive it until I run the car out of gas and mark the gauge. Or drop the tank and adjust the sender arm.
 
I got mine to read just on the bottom side of a 1/4 w 4.5 gallons & just on the high side of 1/2 with 9. I assumed it holds 18.
 
Update : Got it working with some help from Technoversions. Short story....you NEED a solid state instrument VR for this to work. The Meter Match works by varying voltage to the gauge to influence the needle in the correct direction, not by varying the resistance. So with the on off on off of the points style VR it screws up the Meter Match.

I made my solid state VR months ago, thought I had it in but it was on a spare gauge cluster. Easy to make.
Technoversions also makes one with a solid state VR included but you have more wiring to do pluss isolating the gauge from the circuit board.

So, my hat is off for their service and emailing back pretty quick. But they really need to make it clear that solid state is mandatory to get this to work. :)
 
So which Tucson show are you driving it to so we can all get together for a group photo?
 
So which Tucson show are you driving it to so we can all get together for a group photo?
It will be tough with my work schedule. I am off Sun Mon and most of the shows are on Saturday. Give me a heads up and I could probably ask for a Saturday off. Let me know which shows you guys are going to attend.
 
Group photo would be much appreciated!
 
That is far enough in advance that I can probably get the day off. Lets plan on it!:thumbsup:
 
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