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1969 GTX....The T stands for tetanus

Thanks guys!

I got the driver side fender welded back together and put it in place. Fit is pretty good along the door and cowl. I need to straighten the meeting point of the bumper filler panel and both fenders. Otherwise everything lines up. Since the front end was apart when I bought it, several of the bolts, U nuts and nuts were missing. I bought a bunch on line, same type as stock with the free spinning washer. Seem to be a bunch of 5/16-18 and 1/4-20 so I am set. I need to make a stud for the upper driver side fender where it mounts to the cowl.

Here is the front end fit together. I need to take the driver side off again to get the door off and tackle the edge rust on it. But I am happy with the fit especially since I replaced the entire dog house and frame rails.

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Could I get some measurements for the rear quarter GTX emblem?
 
Need to put the locating holes in.
 
I looked at my emblems and the pins are offset so the driver side is most likely different. Figures since I didn't measure that side.

The offset is 2" so my guess would be to take 2" off of the 10 3/4" and 17 1/8" measurments for the driver side. I need to go see if I still have that piece in my scrap pile.
 
Decent day weather wise and I am repairing the driver side door. The hardware on this side didn't seem as rusty as the other side, yet the driver side floor was rotted away. Both sides, the vent window frame adjuster on the bottom was broke off. Looks like two spot welds held them on. Got all the hardware off sans the door handles, last night.

This door is in better shape than the other, as the only bad rust through is in the rear lower corner which is going to be patched like the other side. Doing the inside face first then the outer skin.
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And got the back welded and dressed. Cut the new slot for the bumper. I need to go back and cut it on the passenger side as well.
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I have it buttoned up. A couple low spots on the face side but I figured that was going to be the case since I had to pound the scrap piece I used flat lol. That is it for the major rust, not including surface rust. I guess I need to start welding up my roller fixture so i can transport this thing to the blaster.

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Thanks let me know if you find the old piece.
 
I have the rear rolling fixture in place. I got the idea from a member here and I shall see how well it works. I bought the wheels at TSC for about $30/ea and they are rated at 1200lbs. For the front, I have some larger swivel wheels for a boat trailer. They were around $25/ea. The tubes used in place of the axle are from an aircraft landing gear so it should be plenty strong lol. The perches are angle iron welded in place. I like the idea of having it supported where it will be supported on regular wheels.

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The rear end looks to be in good, ungreasy shape. The center section is a 741 with 3.55 gears and a sure grip (unknown style). The drums have seen better days. Do you think these can be turned? :)
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It rolls! Got the front wheels on finally. Still may weld a cross beam but it is pretty sturdy as is.

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Finally received my fender nuts so i got the driver side bolted in. Then retrieved the hood from the side yard to check the fit. It fits better than I expected and there is plenty of room to fine tune it. Big gripe is the previous owner had it stored on the rear points so they need work and the pass side needs welded. Also tweaked the front facia parts and bolted them in as well. I need to check the grill fit as i epoxied in new lower studs.
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Purists look away lol.

Pulled my heater box down and found some rust in the oval flange. Nothing else rotten. Correct way would have been to pull the cowl. Redneck way is to cut the old piece out and weld in a fabricated oval, welding it to the lip. Not factory correct but after it is welded and dressed, Rust Bullet coated on the top side and then body seam sealer it will be just as new.

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And finished up with a rust bullet bath
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