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1969 GTX....The T stands for tetanus

Mark ... it looks like you are almost finished ... just a few more hours. I will load up my Polara next weekend and tow it to Yuma so you can finish mine too!

REALLY great work!
 
Nice work !!! Man you are thrashing on that pup! How many hrs a week are you putting into it? I'm jealous!
I really like your dolly, are you sure those 1/4-20 axle bolts will hold up on the casters??? I would hate to have to trust them...
 
Thanks for the replies. Dryheat, i don't think I can handle another peoject. My head would explode lol.

Mike67, I have not kept a record of time on the car. Its been a bit over 3 months working on it whenever I had the chance. Before work, after work and days off. I get a plan in my head and get to work. Time goes pretty fast.

Everything seems pretty sturdy as I have shoved and moved it all over. I really only need it to get on a trailer twice so I can get it blasted. I am already gathering parts for the rear end and front suspension so I can take the dollies off.
 
I haven't updated in while because not much going on. I finished removing everything from the car that needed removing. Door hardware, random fasteners, etc. to get it ready for a blast.

I found a local that can blast it but the caveat is the dolly wheels will not work because he blasts out back and no way it could roll around. One option I considered was removing the solid wheels for pneumatic ones but I am not certain they would work any better for the price they cost.

Debated renting a trailer, borrowing a friends truch and hauling it to Phoenix to one of the several blasters there but the cost is quite a bit more.

I think I finally decided just to get the suspension back on it with actual wheels and tires to get it to the blaster and back. I have a buddy with atrailer that will be fine for local hauling.

Sooooooo, I have been gathering suspension goodies to get it together. For the rear, I have a fresh set of 456/457 SS springs, Mancini front hangers and rear shackles.

I have a pile of stuff for the front as the original stuff was bad. Working on stripping one side, broke my craftsman air hammer in half on a stubborn joint. Funny part is the upper ball joint was loose in the UCA lol so it may need a spot weld when the new one goes on. I am going to bead blast everything, bake on epoxy black paint and reassemble with new goodies. PST kit comes in tomorrow.
 
I have heard several different ways to remove the LCA bushing but this is my favorite. It can be done without a press but a press makes it so much easier. Weld a washer to the rim of the outer shell (clean both surfaces so you get good penetration. If it looks to be stubborn, lay a bead 360*. I just spot welded around it till it looked good. Flip it over and use a solid rod or impact socket of the correct size to push it out.
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And lucky me, my torsion bar adjusters are stripped so i need to get a new set:(
 
Messing with the pass. front suspension. Got it cleaned up and painted, new hardware installed. My stupid HF blast cabinet needs to get replaced or modified. The bottom is the perfect angle to allow media to settle and not slide down to the sump. So every few minutes I have to shake the whole thing around to get media back to the pickup.

Anyway, some progress. I tacked the upper ball joint in place because the threads have seen better days. After I cleaned up the torsion adjuster it can be saved. Boogered threads are near the pivot which will not be engaged when it is tensioned. I may drag the K member out in a bit and start cleaning it up.

The front brakes are 3" so the shoes I got in will not work, new set ordered and after taking apart the first wheel cylinder they should rebuild nicely! Made in the USA too. I am staying with 4 wheel drum brakes.

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My pile of suspension / brake hardware

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And my broke Craftsman air chisel. I was tapping the fork to get it off the ball joint and it fell apart. Replaced with an IR.
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Just some pics. Got the bottom of the K member cleaned up, dent pulled and mounted it. When it gets blasted I will have them do the top then I can finish it. Cleaned the inner fender areas. Going to epoxy prime in the wheel wells then coat with Upol Raptor Bedliner. Then I will get the front suspension mounted.
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And here is the driver side front suspension. I remember the LCA bushing falling apart when I took the assembly out. New rubber should make it drive better:)
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Got a little bit accomplished today after sleeping in. I had cleaned up the wheel wells and inner trunk quarters in prep for bed liner which finally came in.

U-Pol Raptor bedliner kit from Amazon. 4 liters with hardener and gun was $110. Mix in 250ml of hardener, shake, attach to gun and spray. I kept my pressure around 30psi (instructions say 40-60) to get a similar look to what was on the car. 2 liters did all 4 wheel wells and both L and R inner quarters plus some extra. So I have 2 more liters to play with if I choose to do some of the underside.

Here are some crappy pics. Not the cleanest job but I plan to drive this sucker so it will work fine:)
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Stuff dries fast!
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I am putting new bearings and seals in the hubs but leaving the brake hardware off for now. Pass side is original with swaged lugs.
 
The front end is finally hanging around on its' own equipment. Went together well, everything is tight but not torqued, will wait for the motor on that. It rolls around nice now, still need to clean up the steering link and tie rods and get them installed so both wheels move together. Then I will get the rear end cleaned up and bolted back in. Hoping by this coming weekend.
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And this is the part that gives me joy. Rebuilding small components for re-use. These 1 1/8" bore wheel cylinders are USA made and the bores are very nice after a hone. Rebuild kits are made in USA as well. Sorry no pics of before but the pistons were stuck in the bores, cleaned up with mineral spirits and a bronze brush, bead blasted the metal.
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Progress seems really slow when the bulk of my time is blasting parts and painting parts. Took my rear end down and cleaned it up. The 3rd member is a 741 with 3.55 gears in a cone style sure grip unit. Lash and endplay were all withing limits so I will not mess with it as it still grips sure. I have a thread over on engine and drivetrain about replacing axle seals and bearings.

Got new brakelines, 456/457 super stock leafs, Mancini shackles and front leaf hangers. I am going to leave the brake guts out for now but the rear end is back together and bolted up. Strangely enough, I had an extra set of rear shocks laying around. Went together well and everything fits as it should. Car should sit good once it is up to curb weight.

Hopefully the next step is get it towed over to be blasted.

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Here is a pic I snapped early this morning with the GTX sitting on its' own suspension for the first time since April.
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Anyway, got home from work and blasted more parts. Blasted, oiled the pinion snubber and re installed it. While I was under there I removed the remains of a couple of beat tailpipe hangers.

Then I tackled my rear wheel cylinders. These were about as nasty as the fronts and the pistons were stuck.
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I removed the pistons with some compressed air. I have learned to wrap a rag around it before hitting it with air as I have a nice hole in the wall from one letting loose without restraint.
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Here is the bore before. Kind of nasty looking but very serviceable. I have learned that pitting in the middle is ok as long as it doesn't contact the seal. I took it over and bead blasted it then honed it.
Before....
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While honing in brake fluid....
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After....
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I then clean it in hot water and Dawn dish soap, air dry and oil the exterior. Don't lubricate the inside with anything but brake fluid. For the pistons and plungers I cleaned them up with a brass brush. Here is is the rebuild kit
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And the final product...

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People ask why rebuild if new ones are so inexpensive? Because these are made in the USA and are pretty easy to rebuild, why go with Chinese parts.
 
Not much to report, just cleaning up random parts. Going to drop the GTX off at the blaster on Monday (if they are open) or Tuesday. She is ready to go. Messed around with the rear brakes and got them together. I don't know whether these adjusters are correct as all the pics I see are of the adjuster cable with the spring. I have these set up like my other B Body. The fronts are non adjuster so I kept the original fat spring that holds the adjuster in place.
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I also cleaned up my steering box (manual) which I will be rebuilding with parts from Firmfeel in the future.
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And I took apart and inspected the old master cylinder. Put a hone to it but there is some pitting which is too deep so I ordered a new one for now. Mine has the M shaped lid hold down and is marked Bendix so I may bite the bullet and have it stainless sleeved so I can use it.

Does anyone know which is correct for 1969 4 wheel drum brakes? M shaped hold down and bubble lid or flat lid with screw hold down? Or will the lids interchange?
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Out of the dark and into the light for the first time since April. Pulled her out to get transported to the blaster and took some before pics. Welded up 2 old outer tie rod ends with a length of rebar for the "steering mechanism". Going to place my order for SPI Epoxy to get her primed after I get her back. It is weird having that side of the garage back lol.

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Cleaned up the steering column. Took it all apart, blasted the smaller parts and just sanded the larger ones and repainted. I used SEM flat black on the low sheen pieces. The 2 collars were blasted as well and one was straightened as it was out of round. I thought about filling in the split at 12 o'clock on the wheel but it isn't getting refinished so it would be a bear to color match with Acraglass. The turn signal indicator was in really good shape as were the upper and lower bearings so I cleaned them up, greased and installed.

I was drinking pretty good while doing some of it, and watching the NLCS so I missed some bolts for paint. I'll fix it later.
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And I finally broke down and bought a new 1/2" impact wrench. Heard really good things about it and as i am coming from an old, lower end Craftsman model w/ about 250#/torque this should be a pleasant upgrade. Made in Taiwan and is super light and quiet as well. Plus a $20 off coupon.
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Getting bored without the car here so i started blasting parts and going through my boxes to sort things out some more. Found a complete engine wiring harness that I didn't know I had but the ends are pretty brittle so they are getting replaced. Found the set of horns I didn't know I had and blasted them and painted. I have a bag of random or spare fasteners I blasted clean, found 4 side markers, 2 rear, one in between and 1 front. there were also a set the po picked up somewhere for $5 and he overpaid. The housings were rotted out. The steel brackets were good so i blasted them.

I also blasted and refinished a few of the wiring brackets and coated with plasti dip. I love the stuff! I will also need to fab the 2 brackets used to hold the console wiring to the floor board as I don't know what I did with them:(

Here are a few parts I cleaned up and painted. I am using Brownell's Alumahyde II epoxy in flat and semi. It cures pretty quick when it is heated. I have done several firearms and magazines with it and it holds up very well. For the horned I used appliance epoxy from Lowe's in gloss. Does pretty good for and enamel.

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Hey do you get to the Tucson area ever? I have a gallon of SPI Grey epoxy that I bought thinking I needed that much to finish up my Coronet but I just don't need that much. I hate to open it and end up putting a partially opened gallon on the shelf. PM me I will give you a good deal so it goes to a good home rather than being wasted.
 
I was blasting my bumper mounts and my blast gun nozzle (HF) took a crap. Tried the small orifice nozzle to no avail so i am down until I get my replacements from Amazon. I only have one set of rear mounts so I wire wheeled them, hit them with a disc and coated in a rust converter followed by epoxy. There is some pitting but nothing thru. For the front I have 3 from another bumper that are nice and 4 original that are pitted so I will have a few to choose from. The 2 long front ones still need blasted but the short ones are done. The 3 in the chair below are extra. This rust converter is awesome!
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