1969 road runner electrical - Starting New Thread - $100 Reward offered

[The Beep]

I just went and snapped a few pics from my 68 Roadrunner. It has a NEW Year One 1968 engine harness (same as yours I believe), the mechanical voltage regulator (same as yours I believe) and the 70's era Dual Field Alternator (also the same as yours I believe).

This is a picture of the Voltage Regulator:



Looks Like yours.

Now here is MY Dual Field Alternator:



The large black wire (I have two due to an ammeter bypass mod) goes to the BAT connection, yours looks right.

It may be a little hard to see but the factory Green (with black tracer) wire goes to a Field connection, either one.

Finally is the CUSTOM Yellow wire on the second FIELD terminal. It is a simple "jumper" used to ground the alternator's opposite end to create a completed circuit. Its a little hard to see but one end is connected to the FLD connection and the other is simply bolted to an unused bolt hole on the rear of the alternator (any good ground).

I have run this setup for years and it works well. If everything else is good this should be it.

Good luck, and regardless of the thread title I don't want your money.

 

[67 coronet]

http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.htmlhere is a lengthy article all about electrical problems and the fixes in our cars.about half way through they talk all about single vs dual feild alt's and how to fix the problems.if you have two feild wiring in your car someone may have done the mod to make it so.read away,it will take a bit,but should answer your questions.

 

[paladin06]

Getting better. I thnik my after market stereo (I did not install) was over loading the electrical system. New issue...if I turn the key on without starting the car and turn the lights on and hit the brights button, the damn car starts. I know it did NOT do that before. I did replace the switch panel a couple days ago. Perhaps I better pull the switch panel and check those wires at the light switch.

 

[The Beep]

Getting better. I thnik my after market stereo (I did not install) was over loading the electrical system. New issue...if I turn the key on without starting the car and turn the lights on and hit the brights button, the damn car starts. I know it did NOT do that before. I did replace the switch panel a couple days ago. Perhaps I better pull the switch panel and check those wires at the light switch.

Yeah that's disconcerting. I also strongly recommend you disconnect the batter when not around the car and make sure you have fire insurance.

 

[67 coronet]

Getting better. I thnik my after market stereo (I did not install) was over loading the electrical system. New issue...if I turn the key on without starting the car and turn the lights on and hit the brights button, the damn car starts. I know it did NOT do that before. I did replace the switch panel a couple days ago. Perhaps I better pull the switch panel and check those wires at the light switch.

damm!time to check all that under dash wiring.

 

[paladin06]

:black_knight_standi Thanks all..

 

[paladin06]

How can it be possible that I bench test an alternator and it reads 14.** volts and when I put it on the car it only reads 12.37 at the bat post on the alternator? :-(

 

[67 coronet]

How can it be possible that I bench test an alternator and it reads 14.** volts and when I put it on the car it only reads 12.37 at the bat post on the alternator? :-(

either you are not getting connection from bat to alt or you are not creating a feild.might be a good idea to check continuity of all wires comming from alt.wouldn hurt to read the link from my other post,gives a ton of test info.

 

[scotts74birds]

How can it be possible that I bench test an alternator and it reads 14.** volts and when I put it on the car it only reads 12.37 at the bat post on the alternator? :-(

A bit long-winded, but this should answer most of your questions. And then some.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/howitworks.shtml

 

[paladin06]

I have 11.49.

i have a 69 bee i had a similar problem with.i replaced everything you have and still had the same issues.my problem turned out to be a voltage drop on the blue run wire from the ignition to the vr.what voltage do you have on that side of vr with the key on?

- - - Updated - - -

Still no joy. Just wil not show a charge. Green wire replaced. All grounds to bear metal. New battery and ground cables. I've no idea why this beast is not charging.

Any luck?

 

[paladin06]

Yes I am it reads 11.96 volts. Same as at the battery.

i read through the thread.you said the amp meter is bypassed.are you still getting power to the main battery connection at the alt?should be full voltage with key on,even if not running.just checking to make sure bypass at dash was done correctly.

- - - Updated - - -

Wires from the alternator are all new wires. 8 gauge at the BAT positive (RED) and 16 gauge (Green at the field. The other field terminal is grounded to the ALT housing.

either you are not getting connection from bat to alt or you are not creating a feild.might be a good idea to check continuity of all wires comming from alt.wouldn hurt to read the link from my other post,gives a ton of test info.

- - - Updated - - -

Looks like I am getting about a .75 volt drop at the VR blue wire.

i have a 69 bee i had a similar problem with.i replaced everything you have and still had the same issues.my problem turned out to be a voltage drop on the blue run wire from the ignition to the vr.what voltage do you have on that side of vr with the key on?

 

[paladin06]

I know the blue wire from IGN switch sends power to the VR but what wire on the IGN switch brings power to the switch?

 

[paladin06]

I finally got it. Thanks everyone for your support. Details to follow. Special thanks to Pops1967GTX!!

 

[HYRDGOON]

Glad to hear it's resolved! Look forward to hearing what the issue(s) ended up being