1969 Road Runner facelift

[roadrunnerman]

now the fun really begins.

 

[Gpuller]

Ok I slacked all weekend.

Stupid rain kept me from doing any blasting... but I did get a couple things done.

drillin and splitt'n

Test hang teaser.


Note the 11,000 RPM extreeme titty twister scar on my shirt, be careful with those grinders dudes. Lol!!

Quit looking so Damn serious Dave...LOL

I just figured it was because he was drinking Natural Light!

 

[northerndave]

ok, ok, i'll try to crack a smile. :grin:

I think there were a couple "mighty arrow" beers and some summit pale ale kickin around that day too so it wasn't all natty light.



I need a chunk of piano wire or a corded guitar string or something like that to cut the back window out.

Ick i hate taking them windows out.

 

[Propwash]

i just figured it was because he was drinking natural light!

lmao!!

 

[northerndave]

I'm looking for opinions here on something, i have a one piece trunk floor that won't fit into my trunk area right now without cutting the forward 10" or so off of it.

See where I cut my inner wheel well?

Now I have inner and outer well for this side of the car, so I'm thinking about cutting this inner further towards the back seat so I can fit the full length trunk floor in with no cutting and splicing. My plan up to this point was to cut the new pan and weld it to the original pan here...

I can fit that much of the new trunk floor into place right now and the metal is sound and solid above that red line.

But 8 or 10 inches forward of that red line is the factory seam, So I'm trying to decide if I should cut the driver's side well further open and remove the rest of the old trunk floor for full replacement or?

 

[roadrunnerman]

are you going to replace the whole wheel well? if so,then i would cut the rest up to the seam, imo.

 

[northerndave]

I have no plans to seperate the wells from the forward structure, basiclly the cabin structure for lack of correct names/terms.

There is no reason to replace any more than what I have cut already as far as the wheel well goes. The only reason would be to gain access to slide the whole trunk floor in from that side. And the only reason to do that would be to get away from having a weld seam across my trunk right at that spare tire bracket area...

So i guess I'm trying to pick the lesser of evils.

Trying to pick what i will be happier with in the long run I guess.

I know i can grind and dress a trunk floor weld seam just fine I guess, maybe I should just stick with that original plan?

 

[roadrunnerman]

sounds like a plan dave. heck with all the seam sealers,undercoating,plus not driving them in the winter like we used to do,it should last just as long as it has if not longer.

 

[northerndave]

I just figure with a common trunk floor job typically you deal with halves (LH-RH) and weld them up the middle and it works just fine...

It's just that I do have a full pan and I do have a full wheel well... So I could do a full 1 piece replacement if I wanted to. (trunk floor)

I don't want to be settling for this floor splice at the tire hold down bracket just because it might be easier/faster, ya know?


But you are right, with how we baby these cars these days and with the superior coatings products, they should last for ever.

 

[northerndave]

I got a little blasting done tonight, not the best because my blasting nozzle was missing and I couldn't find one in town at any of the stores. So I had to make a temporary one out of a 1/8" pipe cap with some gringing and a small hole drilled in the end.

It worked good enough to get things cleaned well enough for a coat of POR15, tomorrow.

 

[Propwash]

Looking good Dave! Ready for the snow this weekend?

 

[northerndave]

I think we might get some snow tonight, that's fine. Car is back inside and my frame rails are clean enough to brush some por15 onto and spray some weld through zinc primer on my weld flanges for some trunk floor, wheel house, trunk ext etc. welding.

Let it snow, I plan on making camp in the shop this weekend.

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

just to chime in,i would agree with matt on the old paint scheme, i would hate to see it go,but that was in the "hippie" days.i think the color you are going to put on the car now will make that car a headturner at any carshow or on the street.

i love the old hippie paint scheme myself. id try to preserve it or redo it. very very cool.

 

[northerndave]

I'm saving the best mural (passenger side quarter) for garage wall art.

 

[Propwash]

Plan on camping out in the garage as well..Got the little brother coming over from across state.. I don't think he realizes his room and board comes at the cost of operating a wire wheel on a Plymouth..hehehehe.

I take it you like the Zinc Primer as well?? I always had better luck with that more so than the Copper (snap, crackle, pop)

 

[northerndave]

To be perfectly honest this will be my first experience with any weld through primer. I know of the zinc and I know of the copper but I have no experience with either.

It is encourageing to learn that the one that I happened to end up with is also one that you have learned to preffer.

I'm trying to plan my night in the garage, thinking maybe I should try to test fit the trunk floor pan (which will involve some trimming one way or another) possibly mark my pan from under the car. Then remove it for drilling/prep and try to get my POR15 brushed in where I need it so it can dry for a full day before I start welding pans in.

 

[northerndave]

I've never seen a quart of paint put up this kind of fight, seriously, is this normal?

not open yet...

finally...

mess and all...

krylon can on the floor was used to mark the trunk floor pan from under the car.

 

[jaakhus]

krylon can on the floor was used to mark the trunk floor pan from under the car.

It's good you clarified... if you had used it for anything else then I might think you're from Warroad!:toothy5:

 

[Propwash]

Little trick to prevent the lid sealing up like that is to lay a layer of Saran wrap in between the can and the lid. It will still seal up fine, won't let the product dry up and you won't have to attack the lid with a plyers and screwdriver no more.. Just what works for me.

That's nutz if that was a fresh can of POR15!! At least you know it bond's well...LOL

 

[detmatt1]

I think it says right on the can not to let any of the product get around the lid before you close it, guess they didn't read the label at the plant!