• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

1970 Plymouth Sport Satellite from Junk to......

The interior rear top metal door panel used staples to attach the whiskers. After some thought I decided NOT to attempt to use staples. I think without the right heavy stapler and backing it just wasn’t practical. So I decided to deviate from Chrysler and use rivets. I used a 3/8 rivet which was just right. Works well as they sit below the whiskers and hold extremely tight making this an ideal alternative.

IMG_4608.jpeg


IMG_4609.jpeg


IMG_4610.jpeg


IMG_4613.jpeg


IMG_4611.jpeg


IMG_4612.jpeg


image.jpg
 
So it begins…… Front end rebuild.

IMG_4888.jpeg


IMG_4892.jpeg
 
Last edited:
You bitch you lol! Ok well map gas, penetrating oil the right tool (btw the size I used is 1-59/64) and ultimately an impact to loosen it. I was bending my breaker bar and thought it better to possibly damage the threads of the upper ball joint than bang the new paint or worse **** myself up.

IMG_4925.jpeg


IMG_4926.jpeg


IMG_4927.jpeg
 
You bitch you lol! Ok well map gas, penetrating oil the right tool (btw the size I used is 1-59/64) and ultimately an impact to loosen it. I was bending my breaker bar and thought it better to possibly damage the threads of the upper ball joint than bang the new paint or worse **** myself up.

View attachment 1788954

View attachment 1788955

View attachment 1788956
I bought the proper A, B, E and C body ball joint sockets years ago in the early 80s. I still have them, they work great for pressing bearings on and off with the press. Lol.
 
I removed the UCA’s and had the alignment shop R&R the ball joints, it was cheaper than buying the special socket.
 
Best find on amazon yet that’s pretty cheap for as often as you use it it..
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top