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1970 Super Bee 383 Auto Stalling when hot

70SuperBee70

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Not sure if this problem is being discussed in another thread. Bought a 1970 Super Bee 383 automatic. Took it out yesterday. drove 5 miles to gas station. Put premium in then drove another 4 miles (45 mph). The engine just shut off going up a hill. Had to coast to the side. The car started back up and I drove another 4 miles when the engine shut off again. Got stuck on a two lane. Started the engine and limped back home - 1 mile at a time. the car would start back up but only go about a mile. At one point I was able to coast off the road. Sat for 5 minutes then made it about 3 miles. Finally got it back in my garage. There was no hard idle or sputtering. It would run normal then shut off each time. Any ideas where to start looking?
 
Time for some diagnosing. Is it a fuel problem like vapor lock? Is it an electrical issue which is common with old stuff? If you're not old car savvy, have any friends who can help figure stuff out?
 
As @ckessel mentioned above it sounds like vapor lock to me. Place two or three wooden close pins on the fuel line right before the carburetor.
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Last edited:
Plugged fuel filter sock on the sending unit.
My first thought too. Or plugged vents. The old down and dirty way is pull the gas cap, take off the fuel line at pump, and deliver some air pressure to blow the sock off. Not everyone's cup of tea though :poke:
 
My first thought too. Or plugged vents. The old down and dirty way is pull the gas cap, take off the fuel line at pump, and deliver some air pressure to blow the sock off. Not everyone's cup of tea though :poke:
And risk bulging the tank.
 
OP mentions no sputtering........ runs normal and "shuts off"

most fuel problems turn out to be electrical
 
Vapor lock was my first suspicion. I can try a few simple things but will need to leave the more complex diagnostics to a professional.
 
OP mentions no sputtering........ runs normal and "shuts off"

most fuel problems turn out to be electrical
..and the rest of the electrical problems turn out to be fuel :lol: or something like that.
A classic online game of pin the tail on the donkey
 
Spray the firewall Bulkhead Connector with Electrical Contact Cleaner for good measure. Sudden shutoff possibly electrical vs fuel. Give it a HEAVY coat and be very gentle if you mess with the box itself.
 
most fuel problems turn out to be electrical
Indeed. Could very well be corroded cap/rotor, or even a failing coil.
My belvy did something similar years ago..... turned out to be the distributer shaft was wearing the insulation thru the points wire......
Gotta have a peek at everything.
 
You shouldn't get vapor lock while driving.
I'm betting on the sending unit sock and/or fuel filter
 
I would recommend putting a new fuel line on it as well if it's original.
They rust on the inside if sitting for long periods of time. My Plymouth is totally rust Free and the fuel line was really bad inside.
 
You shouldn't get vapor lock while driving.
I'm betting on the sending unit sock and/or fuel filter
I had a /6, 61 Valiant years ago that when I bought it there were about 4 close pins on the fuel line. I thought what the hell is this. I took them off. The next time I took the car out, 20 plus miles, it did almost exactly what the OP said. I made it back home 1, 2, 3, miles at a time, depending on how long I let it cool. I may be totally off, but it's a good possibility.
 
I had a /6, 61 Valiant years ago that when I bought it there were about 4 close pins on the fuel line. I thought what the hell is this. I took them off. The next time I took the car out, 20 plus miles, it did almost exactly what the OP said. I made it back home 1, 2, 3, miles at a time, depending on how long I let it cool. I may be totally off, but it's a good possibility.
Well we don't get the heat up here like you see down south. So you're more likely to encounter situations like this.
 
Fuel pump push rod worn down (my guess-easy to check). If it is change oil too with high zinc.
Andy
 
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