1972 Electronic Ignition Upgrade

[4404ME]

In 1972 Chrysler introduced Electronic Ignition. Since that's nearly 50 years ago, I am looking at replacing the stock system, with a newer/upgraded system. I'm guessing there are better options out there, and I'm seeking newer and better performance. Suggestions? My car is a 440/MT equipped, 1972 Road Runner. Thanks!

 

[66Satellite47]

Lots of options out there. Check some options with Mancini. Depends on if your distributor is good if it is just an ECU upgrade. If not a conversion kit is probably worth it. If your finances provide, an MSD or Crane box.
It depends on what the use of the car is.

 

[4404ME]

I'm always interested in ways that I can improve the car. It runs solid, it's NOT a daily driver, and I won't be racing with it (I check out the Racers Hangout, because I know that's where the performance enthusiasts are 'hanging' out). I'm just thinking that at almost 50 yrs old (crazy, isn't it?), it might benefit from an upgrade. Currently, it has the original, stock, ignition parts. It's not an entirely stock engine; Edelbrock intake/1912 Carb, headers, and might have a slightly hotter cam (I say might, because it was added before I bought the car). Thanks for your reply, and if you have anything else to add, I'm all ears!

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I think your factory ignition is just fine. Maybe change to one of the better orange/chrome/gold boxes or something? That would be a simple plug-in. Otherwise, maybe a MSD-6something ignition?

 

[MoparLeo]

It may be 50 years old but that doesn't mean that it is out of date really. Some guys still use points. Fuel and air are still just that Make sure that your components, connections are in good condition and " don't fix it if it works"

 

[440 Charger]

It may be 50 years old but that doesn't mean that it is out of date really. Some guys still use points. Fuel and air are still just that Make sure that your components, connections are in good condition and " don't fix it if it works"

What works will always work.

 

[4404ME]

I think your factory ignition is just fine. Maybe change to one of the better orange/chrome/gold boxes or something? That would be a simple plug-in. Otherwise, maybe a MSD-6something ignition?

Hey PB, I appreciate your input! Could you be a bit more specific on the ECU boxes? I would like to research them.. maybe give me a good, better, best? Thanks Again!

 

[4404ME]

I want to thank everyone for taking the time to answer my questions! So - Thanks!!!

 

[440 Charger]

I want to thank everyone for taking the time to answer my questions! So - Thanks!!!

Lots know more than the let on.

 

[66Satellite47]

The stock style control box replacement (ECU-Electronic Control Unit) seems pretty small these days. Don't know where to find an upgrade Mopar ECU orange or chrome. Mancini has his orange box, reasonably priced for the "race" unit. Says good to 6000 RPM.
Back in the day day the Mopar HP upgrades to OEM modules (orange, blue, chrome, gold) were very significant compared to the stock factory units.
As a drag racer, I went with a Blue box, but that's only designed for drag racing not extended lower RPM street driving. The orange boxes had a bit more RPM-HP capability than the stock ECU, but still seemed to begin to run out of steam above 5500 RPM.
For street driven HP car I'd be looking for something that will fire the plugs up to 6000, especially with a manual trans.
Others can chime in on the Rev N Nator style stuff. A base model MSD 6AL is sure a upgrade. The multi spark does work and makes up for some less than perfect tuning.

 

[moparedtn]

Another vote for the stock Mopar electronic ignition here. It just plain works and is pretty dang
bulletproof. Member @HALIFAXHOPS has all manner of replacement components like control
units for them, too - and can tell you which ones to avoid, too.

 

[66Satellite47]

I expect HALIFAXSHOPS can give you excellent advice. Check in with him.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

There really isnt anything wrong with the stock sytem with quaity componets and the proper curve in the distributor. You have to watch some of the aftermarket kits the curve comes in way to fast great for the strip though. How much time you looking to get out of a newer system?

 

[Dodge 330]

I like to re-curve a stock electronic distributor and couple it to an analog MSD 6AL box. It may not make more power but starting is improved and you have features like a rev-limiter, two step and timing control you can add on. We hide them under the battery so they look stock. We've been 10.01 @ 133 with this setup in a street car.

 

[383man]

I ran the orange MP ECU and an Accel super coil with no ballast for years on my 63. And they say the orange box is good for 6000 RPM but I trapped about 6400 and the car never missed a beat running 10's. The system worked fine on my 63 for many years but I got a real good deal on an MSD 6AL digital box last year so I jumped on it as I know MSD is about the best out there and I figured one day I will switch to it. I can say I am 100% happy with the MSD as the car used to take 2 or three eng revolutions to start and now it starts on the first one as it really starts fast. I also went with the recommended MSD Blaster coil and I still use my Mallory electronic dist that uses a magnetic two wire pick-up like a stock Mopar dist. I have not got back to the track but I love how the plugs stay cleaner and its running great with the MSD. It may not be faster but I like the multi-spark it gives up to about 3000 rpm. But as I said the stock orange MP box worked fine for me but the MSD just seems to respond even better. Ron

 

[66Satellite47]

When Mopar first started using the MSD (404BC), they said it would improve ET's especially on 6 BBL's. I found very little ET improvement .01 or .02, but a definite consistent MPH improvement about one MPH sometimes slightly more. I was running a 6 BBL or a 850 DP on a TM7 Tarantula. They do make starting easier too.

 

[4404ME]

Thanks to all who took the time to reply! I appreciate it!

 

[Budnicks]

this is the best Year One sells a engine bay kit from M&H Electrical
unfortunately only sold exclusively thru Year One

the MoPar Performance or
Direct Connection Chrome box for street/strip,
more initial dwell like 20* & would be good to 7500+
IMO was better than the Orange box/s
Use in a 4 or 5 pin plug orientation, dual or single ballast

(there's better control units, like MSD, Mallory both not plug & play,
also 4-5 pin plug in boxes, like Rev-N-ator, 4 second Flat-FBO box)

(check out the Electronics & Ignition forum here, for more examples too)

old MoPar Performance or Direct Connection chart Part #'s
the 'gold box' is race only good to 10,500+ rpm
you can only run it for like 30 min.'s at a time & needs a special coil

dual field style alternator

Electronic Voltage reg. dual field style like 1973

single field alternator style, like used prior to 1973-ish

sounds like for what you need this will cover most basis/basics

 

[4404ME]

Thanks Again, Everyone! I really came to the right place - FBBO - to get answers to my many questions!

 

[Frustration]

I second the vote for the factory-style system, especially in a street car with limited drive time. We run a factory distributor with a chrome box in our '69 road runner. Drives, starts, and races great up to 6500 RPM. I also agree that the MSD 6AL is a good alternative. Having a rev-limiter is a nice option on a race car. One of my pet peeves is having an MSD box mounted in the engine bay. It's easy to get to, but a total eye sore! Mount it on the floorboard under the glove compartment, or under the battery tray as mentioned above. You will rarely, if ever need to service it. Since ECU's were not available from the factory in '69, I made a bracket at the back of the motor that connects to the two outer bolts that hold the valley pan. With my 6bbl air cleaner, it's virtually invisible.