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1973 440 engine build or go crate

Just google smogger 440 build. I think the point is that if you have a nice running smogger big block there can be power there if you are willing to put a little time into the combo and can be done relatively inexpensive.
 
This is going to be all your preference, is your car a 440 car?

If it was me, with an original 440 70' I would find a date correct 440 HP marked block, some 906 heads, a matching crank, rod, balancer set and start there. To get 500+ hp is not a huge chore with a 440 and the stock steel crank 70' rotating assemblies are very capable.

I would grab some speed pro pistons that put you around 10.5 to 1 (385 with rings),
a comp or lunati cam/lifter kit that will give you the performance you want (200)
a gasket set (65 with tray)
oil pan, valve covers, and timing cover (200)
timing set, oil pump, push rods, bearings, (325)
intake and carb (600)
Bolts (450)
Head parts (250)

Then between machine work, a comp valve job, a little head cleaning up, and assembly you can spend $1250 pretty fast, depending on what you spend on the block, crank, rods, and heads ($1000-$1500 is fair for a 70 hp) you may be able to have a nice motor for around $5000 ish...

Same goes if your car is a 383 car, you can do it a bit cheaper, but I would start with a date correct 383 and build it to taste.

The nice part about this is you can sell your current 440 for X amount which can help with the build, I did this with a 454 I had in a 70 chevelle, the motor in the car was not date correct and had a bit more rock that I wanted for the car (compression was too high for most pump gas), I sold the motor for $2700 and built a date correct motor for $4000 that ran how I wanted it to, so $1300 invested and I had a new engine where my other option was to change to a larger chamber head to lower the compression which would have cost me more than $1300...

Good luck, hop this helps with your decision...
 
I guess the bigger question is why do you need 550HP? Generally speaking, the more HP you have the more cooling, braking, traction, and handling you're going to need. You're going to need a high-end rear end, a new torque converter, disk brakes with bigger rotors and better calipers, better ignition, bigger torsion bars, better tires, better radiator, etc., to capitalize on it. This is no big deal if you're going to be taking your car to the track every weekend and running it in competition, but if you're just driving the car on the streets and want 550 HP just so you cay you have 550 HP then it's a total waste of money.

Doesn't cost much more money[if any, depending] in the build, so why not make all you can per buck? A quality rebuild ain't cheap, regardless.
 
Absolutely Go All The Way Or Go Home:

RMS Front Suspension. rack and pinon, coil overs,Tubular upper and lower control arm

Wilwood Brakes

Hydro boost Brake system

Just Got The Dana 60

Gear Vendor Over Drive

EZ EFI - Soon To Be !

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I guess the bigger question is why do you need 550HP? Generally speaking, the more HP you have the more cooling, braking, traction, and handling you're going to need. You're going to need a high-end rear end, a new torque converter, disk brakes with bigger rotors and better calipers, better ignition, bigger torsion bars, better tires, better radiator, etc., to capitalize on it. This is no big deal if you're going to be taking your car to the track every weekend and running it in competition, but if you're just driving the car on the streets and want 550 HP just so you cay you have 550 HP then it's a total waste of money.
 
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