I enjoyed the rant Bob. But of done right the problems go away. Yes back in 1973 there was a big learning curve. Yes those that have to paint the heck out of things with no thoughts of grounding are in for one big headache. There also use to be a spacer plate that helped with cooling. I have never seen the need for the space plate.
I doubt it. I don't have the test procedure sheet with me, but remember nothing about the ECU needing anything but 12V. The whole purpose of the double resistor was to get the engine started on almost 12v to the coil. Once the ignition switch goes into run mode it functions as normal with 6v to the coil.
Ballast resistor? The question was asked before which one you have. I didn't see an answer. The electronic ign. ballast should be close to 1.2 ohms. Also, The NAPA ECU's aren't the best quality, like most electronics now days. Get a good one from Halifaxhops. No guarantee it will last longer than the ones you have been buying especially if you have other issues or mis-matched parts. You do need to start with a known good part.
Wrong....the initial setting up, using a 4 pin ballast resistor, one section was 0.5 Ohm's to limit coil current in the run mode whereas the other section was 5.0 Ohm's which supplied the operating voltage for the ECU. Later editions to system eliminated he 5.0 Ohm' resistor section and the ECU's internal circuitry modified to operate on 12 volts resulting in the 5th wire in the harness plug not being required or used. The coil's primary current was limited by the 0.5 Ohm ballast resistor and switched by the external TO3 Power Darlington transistor on the ECU's case........just my opinion.....
That's great but Ohm will only get it half way there. Like I said the books not in front of me.
I have a through knowledge of how the original Mopar ECU operates, it's requirements, the ballast resistor value and the coil requirements. Not sure what you meant by: "Ohm will only get it half way there" ......sounds like you may be misinformed ......the later additions operate slightly differently......PM me to discuss further.......
Do you have a copy of the "replacement" circuit board insides......show the Power Darlington switching transistor to see if it can be cross referenced to capabilities.......to determine component failure.......
Yes......I would try and reverse engineer the circuit and components base of pictures of a FAILED ECU.....I have a schematic and an actual circuit board......impossible to do without a starting point.......
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with his attitude)
Remember current(amps) is not pushed in, but sucked out.
A totally uneducated and stupid comment.....further depicting a total lack of electrical fundamental knowledge....
