2001 Ram Load-flyte Downshifts On Slight Incline

[Auggie56]

Didn't know where to post this question or even if anyone here is knowledgeable on this type of transmission. Last year I pulled a trailer of about fifteen pounds, about two hundred miles in one direction. On a slight incline of I'm guessing maybe one percent, the transmission which was in fourth gear/overdrive downshifted into second gear on it's own. I say second gear because the tach registered over 3500 RPMs at sixty-five MPH. After letting off the throttle the transmission upshifted with no futher repeat of the problem the rest of the trip. This transmission with 75K on it has never had any problems. Last week I pulled a trailer of 8200 pounds about thirty miles on the expressway. This time on a steeper grade it happened again. I let off the gas and the trans shifted in to high and performed as it should. In fact, I drove over other even steeper inclines with no repeat of the problem. The dealer had the truck last month and said they ran a computer scan, but no bad codes were shown. I have Googled the problem but nothing even close came up. Any ideas?

 

[wyrmrider]

we need to know which trans it is find the code/ build sheet or ask the dealer
how many gears
Which motor and rear gears/ tires would also help
I know about TF and up to 618 3 sp with OD but not later 5 speeds
I know someone who really knows the later transmissions
btw have you changed your fluid and filter (s)
Used ATF 4+
do you plow or do any other cold weather work?
how about hot weather in the hills towing? or which can be even worse- stop and go with a load in hot weather

 

[khryslerkid]

With my '03 2500 Hemi, it's recommend to take it out of overdrive when pulling a trailer. (Push button on end of shifter) Even when hauling a good payload it will come out of OD pulling a hill.

When I'm pulling the loaded inclosed trailer, I'll push the button on level or downhills and let her back in OD. When I hit a grade again I'll take it out.

Auggie, what size truck and engine do you have ?

 

[440SportSatellite]

A 2001 Ram should be the 5.9 magnum with a 46RE transmission if I'm not mistaken. I had some odd issues kind of similar to what you're describing in my '01 Dakota R/T with that drivetrain. Of course I wasn't doing any towing with that. I ended up replacing the transmission with a performance built 46re from Martin Saine back in the day to fix the issues, probably not the answer for you I'm sure. I do believe it's recommended to turn overdrive off when towing on any kind of incline though, like khryslerkid says. There was a button right on the end of the shift lever for that in my '01.

 

[Sixpactogo]

I don't know about the newer transmissions or their capabilities but I had a Dodge dealership shop foreman tell me to never use the overdrive on my 2000 Durango with anything heavier than a June Bug on the hitch. He showed me the fluid drained from a Dakota transmission with 12K miles on it that was used to pull a trailer with two jet ski's on it a quite a bit. The fluid looked like engine drain oil. That was pretty convincing for me. I always turn the OD off when pulling a trailer. I don't think the mileage suffers much because of it either.

 

[khryslerkid]

Not the exact same situation but I'll get to it.

I had a car once that would wait till the last minute before it would downshift pulling a grade. Everyone said I would have to pull the trans. Some were even saying to unplug the wire to the "lockup" converter!

So just for grins, I Googled the symptoms and model of car and one post about it said they had found a gummed up "mass air flow sensor". I took the air box off and found the MAF right before the throttle body and sure enough it was all gummed up. Gave it a good cleaning and it shifted like it was suppose to again.

It made me think about just how the sensor works, detecting air movement, and telling the computer when to shift. I wondered how many people would have had the same problem, take it to a trans shop and spend hundreds of dollars on such a simple solution.

 

[YY1]

A 2001 Ram should be the 5.9 magnum with a 46RE transmission if I'm not mistaken. I had some odd issues kind of similar to what you're describing in my '01 Dakota R/T with that drivetrain. Of course I wasn't doing any towing with that. I ended up replacing the transmission with a performance built 46re from Martin Saine back in the day to fix the issues, probably not the answer for you I'm sure. I do believe it's recommended to turn overdrive off when towing on any kind of incline though, like khryslerkid says. There was a button right on the end of the shift lever for that in my '01.

My '00 R/T does pick some odd times to either go into lockup or O/D, like mild acceleration on level ground where you'd figure a downshift if anything might occur, or certainly at least a hold out of LU.

With that said, at 169,000 miles and what some may consider "severe" service, I've had zero problems with my trans and I haul cars with a dolly for hundreds of miles frequently.

(of course, it will explode tomorrow, now that I've said that)

I do use the O/D, but I turn it off it for starts, and don't turn it on until over 45 MPH and only if I know I'll be at a steady speed for quite some time.

I also turn it off as I approach a stop, kind of like down shifting, again about 45 MPH.

I rented a nearly new f150 4x4 once that would downshift just before the crest of a hill, almost like clockwork. very uneasy feeling that you were being launched over the top of the hill.

 

[wyrmrider]

If this is a TF with OD the Achilles heal are the thrust washers in the OD
changing from 22 degree helix to 15 degree in 76 really helped but not as good as the early straight cut diesel option- which I installed about 1975 and still going strong a quarter of a million miles later
What to do-more and cooler return oil- which goes into the mainshaft then squirts on the planataries
I use a 100 plate Borg Warner Canada (EMPI and others have them about 12x12) with half inch fittings and I replace the 3/8 line with half inch oil proof hose with nice gentle bends
makes a big difference
I had been using ATF+4 however I've switched to Citgo Quatrasyn which is a later formulation- fully type IV-V synthetic instead of type III
(btw Dex VI is a II-III blend) do not even think about using GM uses in the Allisons to save $2 per truck which gets them throughthe warranty period but later...)
(Allison 295 ATF is good for 100 k miles in HD use with filter changes Dex VI maybe 25k DEX III better run tests monthly)
Quatrasyn does not "shear down" has better low temp AND better high temp performance (better basestock) IMHO 4+ is also a better blend)
what concerns me here is the downshift all the way to second
I recommend the Transgo HD reprogramming kit

 

[Auggie56]

we need to know which trans it is find the code/ build sheet or ask the dealer
how many gears
Which motor and rear gears/ tires would also help
I know about TF and up to 618 3 sp with OD but not later 5 speeds
I know someone who really knows the later transmissions
btw have you changed your fluid and filter (s)
Used ATF 4+
do you plow or do any other cold weather work?
how about hot weather in the hills towing? or which can be even worse- stop and go with a load in hot weather

Guess that might help. It's a two wheel drive, 250 with a 5.9 v8. And yes I changed the fliud and filter at 40K and just now at 76K. And yes I did use 4+ both times. Air temperature doesn't appear to affect it. The first trip I took was in the spring maybe in the sixties and the second time it was in the forties.I don't do any work with this truck, I only bought a 2500 as it was super clean and had 25K on it when it was ten years old. Otherwise, it's just used for personal use. Like I say, it shifts beautifully and only has acted up twice when pulling a trailer. I'll get the data off the fender tag tomorrow. Thanks for answering.

With my '03 2500 Hemi, it's recommend to take it out of overdrive when pulling a trailer. (Push button on end of shifter) Even when hauling a good payload it will come out of OD pulling a hill.

When I'm pulling the loaded inclosed trailer, I'll push the button on level or downhills and let her back in OD. When I hit a grade again I'll take it out.

Auggie, what size truck and engine do you have ?

It's a 2500 3/4 ton with 4.10 gear, 360 V8. I couldn't find a tag on the trans crawling in the driveway, but the book says it's a four speed trans with OD. I know that might not help much, so I'm going to have to jack it up latter to find a trans number.

 

[Auggie56]

In have discovered I'm just under towing weight by six hundred pounds. That's without passengers, baggage and beans. so roughly I'm probably six hundred pounds over the recommended towing weight once loaded.

 

[Auggie56]

If this is a TF with OD the Achilles heal are the thrust washers in the OD
changing from 22 degree helix to 15 degree in 76 really helped but not as good as the early straight cut diesel option- which I installed about 1975 and still going strong a quarter of a million miles later
What to do-more and cooler return oil- which goes into the mainshaft then squirts on the planataries
I use a 100 plate Borg Warner Canada (EMPI and others have them about 12x12) with half inch fittings and I replace the 3/8 line with half inch oil proof hose with nice gentle bends
makes a big difference
I had been using ATF+4 however I've switched to Citgo Quatrasyn which is a later formulation- fully type IV-V synthetic instead of type III
(btw Dex VI is a II-III blend) do not even think about using GM uses in the Allisons to save $2 per truck which gets them throughthe warranty period but later...)
(Allison 295 ATF is good for 100 k miles in HD use with filter changes Dex VI maybe 25k DEX III better run tests monthly)
Quatrasyn does not "shear down" has better low temp AND better high temp performance (better basestock) IMHO 4+ is also a better blend)
what concerns me here is the downshift all the way to second
I recommend the Transgo HD reprogramming kit

No trans programing kit of any quality available for this year of truck. Maybe in the past, but not anymore. I did install a larger trans oil pan with the tubes going laterally through the pan for through air passage to cool the fluid. The factory trans cooler was under the radiator and about the size of two cigarette packages.

 

[Auggie56]

we need to know which trans it is find the code/ build sheet or ask the dealer
how many gears
Which motor and rear gears/ tires would also help
I know about TF and up to 618 3 sp with OD but not later 5 speeds
I know someone who really knows the later transmissions
btw have you changed your fluid and filter (s)
Used ATF 4+
do you plow or do any other cold weather work?
how about hot weather in the hills towing? or which can be even worse- stop and go with a load in hot weather

It's a 2500 3/4 ton with 4.10 gear, 360 V8. I couldn't find a tag on the trans crawling in the driveway, but the book says it's a four speed trans with OD. I know that might not help much, so I'm going to have to jack it up latter to find a trans number.

 

[Auggie56]

My '00 R/T does pick some odd times to either go into lockup or O/D, like mild acceleration on level ground where you'd figure a downshift if anything might occur, or certainly at least a hold out of LU.

With that said, at 169,000 miles and what some may consider "severe" service, I've had zero problems with my trans and I haul cars with a dolly for hundreds of miles frequently.

(of course, it will explode tomorrow, now that I've said that)

I do use the O/D, but I turn it off it for starts, and don't turn it on until over 45 MPH and only if I know I'll be at a steady speed for quite some time.

I also turn it off as I approach a stop, kind of like down shifting, again about 45 MPH.

I rented a nearly new f150 4x4 once that would downshift just before the crest of a hill, almost like clockwork. very uneasy feeling that you were being launched over the top of the hill.

I did turn off the OD and the engine over-revved by 3K plus at maybe 55MPH.

 

[Auggie56]

Not the exact same situation but I'll get to it.

I had a car once that would wait till the last minute before it would downshift pulling a grade. Everyone said I would have to pull the trans. Some were even saying to unplug the wire to the "lockup" converter!

So just for grins, I Googled the symptoms and model of car and one post about it said they had found a gummed up "mass air flow sensor". I took the air box off and found the MAF right before the throttle body and sure enough it was all gummed up. Gave it a good cleaning and it shifted like it was suppose to again.

It made me think about just how the sensor works, detecting air movement, and telling the computer when to shift. I wondered how many people would have had the same problem, take it to a trans shop and spend hundreds of dollars on such a simple solution.

Thanks for the tip. Will check that.

 

[Daves69]

Some stuff to sift thru............
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram-faqs-diys-and-how-to-s/237600-transmission-diagnostics.html

No glove box build sticker like this?

 

[wagonman]

My 2001 Ram 1500 with over 250K has the 5.2 and 4spd OD with a lockup convertor. The convertor seems to have a mind of its own. On level flat ground at 55 mph it will be in lockup and for no reason it will come out, rpm will go from 1500 to about 1800. Then go back to 1500. No codes stored but I need to get a good scanner and look at throttle position sensor data as it is one of the major inputs for trans shifting. The TPS is original and with that many miles probably worn out. Other than that truck runs fine and dont owe me nuthin. Oh yeah 4WD also.

 

[PP1RT]

Check the big plug in on the trans. Make sure all the pins are clean and the connection is tight.

 

[Auggie56]

Some stuff to sift thru............
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram-faqs-diys-and-how-to-s/237600-transmission-diagnostics.html

No glove box build sticker like this?

View attachment 580570

That was of emence help. The sticker says for trans it's a DGB. (And thanks for the link.) I did have a check engine light three weeks ago, but it went off before I could have it checked. I did check the computer for codes by cycling the ignition switch twice and it flashed "P dONE" then quickly cycled back to odometer reading. Don't know if it means anything or not.

 

[Auggie56]

Not the exact same situation but I'll get to it.

I had a car once that would wait till the last minute before it would downshift pulling a grade. Everyone said I would have to pull the trans. Some were even saying to unplug the wire to the "lockup" converter!

So just for grins, I Googled the symptoms and model of car and one post about it said they had found a gummed up "mass air flow sensor". I took the air box off and found the MAF right before the throttle body and sure enough it was all gummed up. Gave it a good cleaning and it shifted like it was suppose to again.

It made me think about just how the sensor works, detecting air movement, and telling the computer when to shift. I wondered how many people would have had the same problem, take it to a trans shop and spend hundreds of dollars on such a simple solution.

Per a Google search this truck has a "MAP" sensor which if I'm correct checks intake manifold pressure. Thanks again.

 

[PP1RT]

That was of emence help. The sticker says for trans it's a DGB. (And thanks for the link.) I did have a check engine light three weeks ago, but it went off before I could have it checked. I did check the computer for codes by cycling the ignition switch twice and it flashed "P dONE" then quickly cycled back to odometer reading. Don't know if it means anything or not.

I believe you need to have a scan tool that does the enhanced scans to get in the tranny control module (TCM) to get the trans codes.